New Build in Frisco TX

Mostly Printed CNC - MPCNC Your Builds
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Maybe a little premature to be posting already but… it has begun! I’m excited.

 

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I’m also new to 3d printing as well… Turns out masking tape was a bad idea. I’ll try hairspray for the next piece.

 

I’ll be printing on a CR-10 (bowden tube style) in Hatchbox PLA. I’ve settled on Cura as my slicer for now. Running 0.2 layer height and 0.5 extrusion width, 3 walls and top/bottom, linear infill pattern, 40 mm/s print speed, 3.5mm retraction @ 40mm/s (microswiss hotend). Any comments or suggestions on these settings let me know!

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Welcome!

There is something specific in the brand name blue tape that works better than plain brown, and the hairspray is a similar thing, it has to be a specific type.

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I didn’t know that about the tape. This roll of tape actually came with the printer, all Chinese lettering and everything. The PLA sticks really well, too well. With as much surface area as this piece had on the build plate it’s just a PITA to get the tape off the part.

Based on my what I’ve read I’ll be trying some Aqua Net hairspray in the purple can.

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That tape probably has the right stuff in it. If it sticks too well, you can soak it in alcohol in a tupperware and it will dissolve enough you can rub it off.

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Would the PLA not react to the alcohol? I thought I read people use it to chemically smooth their prints.

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How big it’s your printer.

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CR-10 Mini -> Build volume: 300x220x300mm (11.8x8.66x11.8 in.)

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Welcome from the small town of Wylie.

I use the cheap spray hairspray and it works well. I also like to use glue sticks. I never had luck with masking tape either.

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That’s acetone, and ABS. isopropal alcohol doesn’t affect it.

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Screw it! I’m barebacking it

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I have to say there is something very satisfying about the fit of the conduit here. Not snug but zero play (that I can tell at the moment anyway)

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That leads me to a question though: is this fit on the conduit perhaps supposed to be a little snug at first to account for any kind of break in?

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I would say don’t over think it. If it doesn’t rattle with no tension on the tension bolt you are perfect.

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I have the same issue with blue tape. I use a sharpened spackle/putty knife to remove my prints. Carefully work the knife under a corner and you can lever the print up until it pops off.

 

Are you using the cura that comes bundled with repetier host by chance? If so it’s probably best to ditch the built in version before you get too invested in fine tuning. I ended up needing to use a standalone version of cura newer than what repetier ships with to fix some of my print issues. (Extra priming after retracts, specifically) I was having a hell of a time chasing under extrusion problems. I used a bottom of the barrel ANET printer though. YMMV

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what size is your pipe?

 

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I’m using Cura 3.6 from the Cura website. I’m not having any slicer issues as far as I know. I was using Slic3r but had better prints with Cura for a few non mpcnc prints I was doing so I’m just rolling with it.

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3/4" electrical conduit from the big orange store.

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@Ryan, can you tell me the difference between the roller and rollerM parts? I can see one difference in the shape of the inner bearing “wheel well” but I can’t figure out how they’re functionally different.

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Ryan uses M for mirrored. It’s for the other side, probably.

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I could see they were just mirrored but it didn’t even click that’s what the ‘M’ was for face palm!

But I’m still wondering if they are functionally different? They appeared interchangable at first glance.

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IDK, Ryan’s pretty serious about reducing part counts (including part types), so I’m sure there’s some reason. I guess we’ll have to wait until Ryan responds.