New Build in Minneapolis, MN

Okay so I’m going to try to do a build. But I noticed E1 is out of kits. Ha. he’s out of everything. Which means business is good. Any idea when new kits will be available and is it wise to begin printing the Burly version now or wait for the Primo Version? How far out is the Primo version? 1 month? 6 months? Also are there instructions on the assembly of this bad boy? I couldn’t find a link.


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Final Primo parts should be going to the beta testers for printing and testing this weekend (we hope). You should wait until you have a source for your rails before you begin printing. Make sure you print to what you can source, rather than having to scramble to source to what you’ve printed (or having to print a new set).

I have conduit that measures 23.46mm O.D. Is that close enough to the 23.5mm or does it have to be in the nats ass?

Here’s the start of the first assembled piece:

But you should start here:

That’s close enough. Hundredths of a mm is OK, tenths, not so much… :slight_smile:

Just remember that most (all?) fitment is clamped, not complete encirclement. So there will be a gap. If you try to make all the gaps close, you will break your printed parts.

Usually the first thing is to negotiate space with your living space co-habitants (spouse/children/roommate[s]/pets/etc.), then build your table (at least the top).

Good to know Cummings thanks

Thanks for the link gene… I figured there were instructions somewhere.

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Ha… yeah I took care of all that first. I have the table built and the waste board built and I have a nice little home for it in the garage. All I need now is the CNC. So how long after the Beta Testers are done with it before it’s released to us common folk?

Any recommendations on the Z axis Height? Also I’d like to do laser etching too… Is there anything I need to do differently to accommodate that?

Z-axis height? What do you need the machine to do? In general, keep it as short as possible. The closer you can keep the end of your tool to the gantry, the better. If you know you’ll need to carve on really think pieces, you can set it up with really tall legs, and just shim up thinner stock to keep it closer to the rails, and if you want to work on the ends of your stock, cut a hole in your spoilboard and drop it in (also a handy spot to put a 4th axis if you have a hankerin’ for playing with cylindrical-type objects).

It may not be done anytime soon. We have some teasers, but nothing released yet. The current version (burly) is great. You would not be upset building it now.

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If you wait for the new release, you might end up with issues that hasn’t been fully discovered and worked out. The burly version has been thoroughly tried and tested by many, and you’ll surely get help for any thinkable issue.

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Burly it is then… Any ideas when the hardware kits are going to be in?

I have several questions before I start printing. The specs say infill 55. And that’s it. That’s it??? What about wall thickness or top and bottom layers? How bout infilll type?

Cummins… is there an optimum height if a guy is going to be mostly doing 4/4 to 6/4 thick stock? An ideal sweet spot?

Ryan’s supplies are getting held up, but I think he’s getting traction now. He keep the contact page the most up to date (because everyone contacts him about the kits eta).

Optimum height is the minimum height that will still allow you to work with the thickest stock you will regularly use. If you expect to occasionally use thicker stock, or work on odd-shaped pieces, consider a removable/drop spoil board.

Remember that CNC is limited by bit length. In general, you can only carve as deeply as the bit sticks out of the collet. So having an 8" Z axis only lets you carve on the top of thicker stock, not any deeper. Even if you can source extra long bits, these machines really aren’t designed for that sort of work. The forces working to deflect the bit get pretty bad when you have a lot of stick-out like that. The MPCNC (and really, any CNC machine), works best when the tool is as close to the gantry as possible. Try to shorten as many of the lever arms as possible.

And yes, 55% infill is plenty. Assuming you have a .4mm nozzle, and run somewhere around .32-.38mm layer height, three perimeters and three layers top and bottom should be enough. If you are feeling paranoid and have the filament, up the perimeters and layers before the infill. 55% is plenty to keep the piece structurally sound. The most gain you’ll have is from thicker walls, including the top and bottom.

When you go to assemble, please keep in mind that the pieces are designed to clamp the conduit, and there are supposed to be gaps. Do not try to force all the pieces to meet (you will find out how your prints fail). And pay attention when the instructions say to only engage the nylon of the nylock nuts. It’s easier/better to start with everything loose (except your grub screws, break out the Loctite for those little buggers), and tighten in small increments as needed to bring everything into square.

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Thats all good stuff. Thanks Cummins.

So one thing i’m thinking of veering off the beaten path is using an old Rotozip rather than the dewalt version Ryan recommends. First. is that a wise choice? Has anyone used a rotozip before? How do you think it performed? Is there any mounting files to print or do I need to make my own? Thoughts everyone?