New Build in Seattle

Hi all,

I’m currently printing and ordering parts and thought I’d share a quick spreadsheet for people tracking what they’ve printed and how much print time is left. I’m also printing for a friend, so my printer is going to get a workout and made the sheet more useful :slight_smile:

I’m excited to have a larger cnc at home. I got a genmitsu 1810 pro back in February. While it has been great, I immediately started looking for a way to go larger!

Charles.

 

Update: 90% printed and I’ve cut the conduit. Going for 13.35" x 34" work area (i.e. I bought a 2’x4’ piece of indoor quality ply and 20’ of conduit).

I’m a bit nervous about the 34" since it’s recommended to start smaller, but I figure I can just have the rails out the end for a 24" work space and re-settle the machine to full 34" if everything is working.

I got the conduit cut, thankfully the cheap cutter from amazon held up nicely. I still need to deburr, has anyone used a Dremel for this? I have a titanium bit (I think that’s what it was) that should work fine on steel.

Ryan, it looks like you’re out of steppers, are you planning on re-stocking?

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I won’t have any steppers until Wed or so of next week.

Sanding drum in dremel to debur.

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I did this, too… didn’t last long on the 304 SS 1" tube I used, but the replacement drums were cheap. There’s also a drill powered conduit reamer/trimmer/deburrer that works well… but I hate buying one-time-use tools even though my toolbox is fool of them! :wink:

Thanks all. I tried the Dremel with the bit I had and it worked fine, but holding it by hand wasn’t doing the cleanest job. I’ll try the sanding drum Barry, thanks! I also don’t want to spend $22 on a one time use ? Hopefully that will make a cleaner edge and I don’t have to print a jig to hold the Dremel and conduit.

alu oxide dremel bit is good for de burring etc

That’s what the sanding drums are! Just cheaper, and you can use them for other things.

To clean up the outside of the EMT conduit I used an electric drill and sandpaper. I found that my 1/2" plug cutter’s OD was very close to my conduit’s ID (walked around the workshop with a small piece of conduit looking for what fit the conduit and drill chuck). I wrapped it a couple times with masking tape and press fit the conduit. Now I have a mini sanding lathe. For the longer pieces I had to wrap a bit more tape to the outside and onto my drill chuck to prevent it from spinning when hitting around the halfway point. Easy brushed steel look without hand cramps.

Here’s a picture of my parts before doing step one of the build. Hard to see the conduit, but it has been sanded/brushed.

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Tried other Dremel bits, not for me. I picked up a husky inside/outside reamer for $12 at home depot and it works ok. Takes a bit of time and it’s manual, but makes a cleaner edge than my Dremel work did :slight_smile: Good thing there are only so many conduit ends to do or I’d definitely go with the power reamer. I also picked up a 1/2" ratcheting wrench to do all the 5/16 bolts and it’s night and day over my old wrench combo.

Slow, but progress :slight_smile:

I got the banggood 500W special, sounds like not a great choice after more reading due to poor internal design, but with kids, the quite might make it worth it. At worst, I’m not out a ton of $ and I can move it to the 1810 genmitsu CNC if I replace it for the MPCNC.

I have everything but the board/steppers and T8 leadscrew which I’ll order once Ryan restocks steppers!

Ryan was, unsurprisingly, right. Go for the $21 powered conduit reamer. The manual one works and has a lifetime guarantee, but I’ve already spent an hour reaming and I’m not done :expressionless: Trying to keep it cheap fails again; when will I learn? :slight_smile:

Ordered leadscrew, Rambo full board and the drag knife for stickers :slight_smile: All parts ordered with those, now it’s just finding the time to build.

I made more assembly progress, awesome seeing it take shape!

HAHAHA, Imagine how many hours I have saved. I have stacks of prototype conduit parts from over the years.

Hi all,

Nearing completion of mechanical build but I have a couple of questions.

  1. I'm using calipers to level the corners (measuring the high pipe, as close to each leg as possible). How close do these heights need to be? I have 3 legs within 0.2mm while the last was 1mm different. I definitely need to get the last one, but I'm guessing the .2mm is fine?
  2. I did the diagonal measure to screw down and got that to less than 1/8" difference (my 1m straight edge wasn't more accurate). This ok? Design suggestion for Ryan, maybe on top of the corner covers, add some kind of mark or notch to measure against? I was jamming the ruler into the screw indents and it didn't feel accurate/repeatable.
Next up, lock in height, wire and add belts!

Thanks,

Charles.

1-Depends on what you need for your projects, for Signs, no big deal, done.

2-I measure from inside corner to outside corner, both sharp points to get a good reading from.

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Update:

I finished wiring steppers and did a motion test with repetier-host, all good! I had to flash to the dual endstop firmware first [since I got the full Rambo to use it], and it seems to have worked. Next up, end stop wiring and mounting.

I do have two questions about the dual endstop firmware.

  1. The M666 settings, is there no way to write that to the firmware w/o editing .h and re-flashing? I know I was able to adjust my z-offset on my printrboard (marlin based) and write the setting into eeprom (M212 to set, M500 to save).
  2. I captured the log of starting up with the marlin that shipped with the Rambo board from here, and then again post upgrade and there are a bunch of echo lines missing. Is this expected and is there anything alarming in my console log?
Thanks!

These are the lines that didn’t log once I’d flashed dual firmware. Attached is raw dual output.

22:17:17.123 : echo: G21 ; Units in mm (mm)

22:17:17.123 : echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius

22:17:17.127 : echo:Filament settings: Disabled

22:17:17.127 : echo: M200 D3.00

22:17:17.127 : echo: M200 D0

22:17:17.128 : echo:Steps per unit:

22:17:17.132 : echo: M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E100.00

22:17:17.132 : echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):

22:17:17.136 : echo: M203 X120.00 Y120.00 Z30.00 E25.00

22:17:17.137 : echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):

22:17:17.141 : echo: M201 X400.00 Y400.00 Z200.00 E2000.00

22:17:17.141 : echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>

22:17:17.144 : echo: M204 P400.00 R3000.00 T400.00

22:17:17.148 : echo:Advanced: B<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> J<junc_dev>

22:17:17.148 : echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 J0.00

22:17:17.149 : echo:Home offset:

22:17:17.149 : echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00

22:17:17.152 : echo:Material heatup parameters:

22:17:17.152 : echo: M145 S0 H196 B92 F0

22:17:17.152 : echo: M145 S1 H240 B110 F0

22:17:17.156 : echo:PID settings:

22:17:17.156 : echo: M301 P17.98 I0.98 D83.62

The M500 command has an asterisks in the marlin wiki, that it may not save. It is best to find you number and flash it. Or load it with every gcode as part of your starting gcode.

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Crown test complete! There are some slight jaggies in some spots… Belts too loose?

I ran the pre-made 12mm/s gcode file.

Realized I could do this without finishing the endstop wiring, nice to get some confirmation of forward progress ?

Thanks for the help and thanks for the fun design Ryan!

 

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Video might help too as it shows pen mount etc.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Av9t_OirOLD7pecH7NKo6quTMd-Jmg?e=KWxpzi

Looks pretty good. I bet it is just the wood grain showing through.

Achievement unlocked: First vinyl sticker! (deathly hallows not mine, got that in xmas stocking :slight_smile:

I realized I’d left the y belts too loose after doing the stepper wiring, so I tightened those up. 4x crown repeat test looks pretty good!

Oddly, the circle in vinyl is a bit oval, but the circles from the pen test were fine. Anyone know what might be up there?

Also, any tips on reducing the lead in tags?