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oooh… aaah. Nice looking table.
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DAM! There we go. Lest see the side you are having the alignment issue with.
Nice color 
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Here is a pic it is the same on both sides. Note I have the thicker side of the Z_RollerLR mounted to the board…
I had a similar issue. I blame my 3D printing of the leadscrew nut holder. I ended up just sanding the part that attaches to the plate a little bit, so it would end up square. I also considered shimming it a little bit.
Thanks for the tip I will try some shims between the board and lead screw holder since I need it to be further away from the board. I’ll let you know how that goes.
It’s at an angle, isn’t it, compared to the z rails, are you sure the Nut just isn;t in crooked?
Before we go shimming things, Those are my prints and my flat parts and mine fit right. Can I see the actual mount.
Here are pics I did shim I will undo it if we need to. Although I did get the lead screw plum see photos. Let me know what you think. Pic 1 shows the lead screw plum.
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Another question guys. Do the rails (conduit) for the Z rub on the side of the table or is there supposed to be a gap? If a gap how much?
RussH
Preferably a gap but depends on how square your table is, small gap 1/16-1/4".
Sorry I have been having BIOS issues, Should be all good now.
Four possibility that I see.
1-I just double checked the CAD, it’s dead on.
2-Part printed with an Elephant foot, squashed bottom that flares out, that would angle the rod the way yours is. I checked the two sets I have here they seem pretty dam good actually. So your probably is as well.
3-screwing the brass nut in too tight angled it out(away form the table), loosen them and give em a wiggle.
4-maybe my printers aren’t super perpendicular and actually printed at an angle…that would suck, I check once and a while but I will check when the current set of parts finishes.
Either way, this isn’t all that critical, if you have it connected you will be okay. The cosine (maybe tangent) error that this could introduce would be very tiny, and only in the Z direction. Less than the deflection the urethane wheels would give I’m sure.
The issue isn’t accuracy as much as it is friction in the screw. I just kind of pushed mine over until it threaded and it wouldn’t turn very well at all. That’s when I sanded it.
I think the issue might be that the screws that hold it to the plate are on the top, so if you tighten it (or over tighten it) it will angle that part. I remember guessing something like that. It’s been a while.
I have a wiring question. See pic is this correct for wiring in series? Rambo board to stepper on the operator side then wire to the opposite stepper.
Thanks
Russh
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https://www.v1engineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_20151022_112457.jpg
Like that but the rambo, ignore the thermistor plugs on this page.
I am ready to test the steppers. I downloaded the Arduino I know the Marlin firmware is flashed on the Rambo, I have downloaded the Repetier host software.
What I do not understand is what to do with the Arduino software. WIll someone please explain.
Thanks,
Russh
Normally you just install it to get the arduino drivers on your system, Do that just in case, but I don’t think the rambo needs it. It’s hard to say. You won;t actually have to use the arduino software unless you want to flash new firmware.
You’d use the Arduino software to change the Marlin code on the mini Rambo. If you don’t need to change the marlin code, then you don’t need the Arduino software.
Oh yeah, windows needs drivers. I forgot.