New build, Telemark Norway

I just tried with the other type of bearings (608rs, abec-5, istead of 608rs2). They are much more heavy with grease and move slower - but muuuch smoother. The bearings I used initially was actually very noisy, making rattling sounds. The new ones move much slower, but steadier and without so much noise. From what I can read from older threads on this form - it seems like the bearings doesn’t matter that much. So therefore I ended up with the ones that made the least noise. (not that it matters when the router is running!!)

I ordered the kit from here and I would say the the bearings move kinda slow and deliberate so that does sound right to me!

It also moves very quietly, and I’m actually kind of surprised the makita router isn’t as noisy as I would have thought! My vacuum is actually more noisy than the mpcnc while running. It’s also from biltema…

The only worry is that these bearings are not double shileded (2rs). They have only one cover. I guess we will see how it goes! The Norwegian bearing-shop (kulelager24.no) takes 10 kr piece for the cheap variant, and 52,- for a normal 608 2rs. Very expensive compared to Ryan!

Oh wow yeah that will be expensive, it sure uses a crazy amount of bearings! I haven’t used my machine that much yet but I have made a lot of dust and chips! And it gets everywhere! So I’m assuming double shielded bearings are a must have for trouble free machining!

I built my first mpcnc in, looks at google photos, HOLY SHIT! 2013. They’re still running on the kit bearings. As long as you have some kind of dust collection (you really need dust collection) the kit bearings work just fine. No need to add extra expense.

If you have the tension bolts too tight it can kinda feel like bad bearings, loosen them up a bit give it some room to settle in.

The basic difference between different bearings, once the size has been determined (608 means 8mm inner hole, 6mm change in radius from inner hole to outer edge, so 20mm across) has to do with unshielded (or open cage), shielded and sealed. Further difference is between doing that on one side or doing it on both. Shielded means it’s harder to get contaminants into the bearing, but you can remove the shield to regrease, sealed means you can’t remove the shield and the grease they came with is there forever. For our uses you want double sided, since both sides are exposed, and either shielded or sealed. Sealed will last longer without maintenance, shielded will be cheaper.
Some of the cheapest bearings coming out of China have looser tolerances for the allowed variability in clearances between the bearing race and the balls (and also the cage that holds the balls in place) which tends to allow more of a rattle when spun. These can be great for fidgit spinners but aren’t much good for our uses. It sounds like @Turbinbjorn got those initially…

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I should have gone for more of Ryan’s parts! The learning curve is sometimes very steep, but I really appreciate all the help and very skilled assistance in this forum. I’m still doubting if the Chinese bearings would suffice, but now I’m so tired of going so much back and forth, that I’m just going to dive in and get my hands dirty!