I have the opposite problem. I can print PLA with a wide margin of terrible settings, but to print PETG, I have to get it right on. ABS is OK, but any long parts and I get enormous warping, and I really hate the stuff. It stinks, it shrinks, the bed has to be super hot.
I am on my first roll, but the CF PLA from Ziro was on amazon for $31/.8kg. It looks great and feels pretty good. I’m maybe 100g into it though.
Any ideas for a cable chain mount for x/y and z cables?
Opposite for me.
It took me so long to get used to PETG and longer to learn ABS, all while printing PLA fine. MPCNC parts were first things I printed.
Now, I can’t print PLA w/o screwing up the prints.
hey that’s cheaper. and with a recommendation.
If you want a better recommendation, Stewart says it’s all he prints, and he has 4 big printers, and years of experience. That’s what convinced me.
That is a great filament I have 2 and 1/2 spools of it seating at home.
The Core was printed with SUNSU CF PLA
That I also like it a lot
I ordered my filament from Atomic and they did not have much more in 2.85 sadly. Filament is the next toilet paper…
Out of curiosity I searched for CF PETG tests and it fares pretty well in stiffness. So hopefully my core will be solid enough.
yeah I’ve got a dragon and an all metal, sitting here, waiting for the rest of my voron parts to come in. I MAY break down and use the all metal. I printed all my voron parts in a cardboard enclosure, in a tiny closet, with a mk3s. Definitely need to change the ptfe tube. I’m sure it’s a wreck, in there. But I’m SO dialed in for prints, right now, I don’t even want to bump the machine.
Careful, I don’t know the answer, but all those testes were done on a plane 90 degrees from the one I design around. I design for max strength along the layers with the perimeters acting as a belt to keep it all in. All the test I have ever seen do not test on that axis at all, do they?
Pretty easy to test really. You can print the new tool mount I hope to release today. Test the infill and percentages and see how much for it takes to flex it open a certain amount.
I know, like I said, I don’t have any data to back it up!
I want to try it so bad! it’s between that and the ziro.
that ±05mm accuracy on the ziro, though.
May have to look at others, like the sunsu.
Always nervous about filament I haven’t used before. Good to get recommendations.
.8kg enough to get through the core?
yep it is
Cheaped out and went with the Sunsu CF.
In my haste to disassemble my old machines and get ready for the Primo, I forgot to cut my Lowrider2 611 plate, but the rest is good to go.
The Sunsu is 1kg, so I have enough to print the baseplate and play around in the garage while the core is printing.
Hopefully, it goes ok.
I’m holding you responsible.
PETG is more flexible than pla. My petg parts were printed with 4 perimeters and were still flexible. I upped them to 5 or 6. Primo is all pla now though.
So how exact do the cuts have to be…hand sawing is not the easiest lol. Even used the hose clamp trick. Its suppose to be 34.5 (y Gantry). do I just use this piece for 34.25 (x Gantry) and take it down with the bench grinder.
Edit: the tape measure shifted a bit was kind of hard taken a pick but it’s off by about 1/32 maybe a little more
Yeah at 90% infill, 6 solid top and bottom and 6 walls, my 611 plate bowed so badly, it was a joke.
Went ahead and ordered CF PLA for the core. Rest of my Primo parts seem ok in PETG.
I haven’t built one. But after proof reading the instructions I think the most critical lengths are the feet. The X and Y parts are on long grips so 1/32" shouldn’t be a problem. But maybe someone that has built it would know better.
You can also cut a little wide of the line and then trim it up with a belt grinder or a file and a ton of patience.