New printer time?

If you look further down the tree the wood parts are there, you just need to turn them on/make them visible. You can hide all the extrusions at the same time.

Strange, I am not seeing these items in the tree. My two approaches have been to view the model in the Fusion web viewer from the link you provided in the first post as well as downloading the STEP file from the Fusion link and opening it in Solidworks as this is the CAD software I have available.

Everything seems to have imported into Solidworks correctly and I am able to view the design tree with each part. But I am not seeing the milled components still. Any chance these are only viewable using Fusion 360?

When you export it all the hidden items are not exported.

You need to clone and open it in fusion

Ahh I got it! Thanks for your help Ryan. One other thing, I was able to source the 200mm linear rails but I have had no luck finding 275mm. Can I ask whereabouts you are sourcing the linear rails from?

You can do amazon, ebay, aliexpress, or places like Hiwin.

You can make it larger, or you can cut the rails if you have an abrasive saw or cuttoff disk (they are hardened so a hacksaw will not do anything).

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If you can go with some more length, I just upgraded my railcore to LDO rails. Much better quality than the ali-lottery rails. Or get close and cut them with a cutoff disk.

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Nice find! I have used filastruder a lot and they are pretty awesome!

Yea, I buy a lot of stuff through them.

It has been a while since I have been on this forum and I have missed a lot. I love this new printer and I have started printing the parts for it. I will be building it with 2020 since I have some sitting around. I have read through most of the 631 posts and I do not see a writeup to include the hardware needed. What length of rails are suggested for the stock size and how far can one go to make a big printer?

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At the moment the BOM is the fusion 360 file.

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The standard rail sizes are in the Fusion360 CAD model. I am using 300mm rails for Z and 450mm rails for Y with a 310mm square bed. The 450mm Y rails are plenty and give me at least 60mm extra at the front of the bed that I could put the nozzle if I wanted to.

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I can’t remember offhand who, bit there was a request to see the printer in action. One of my Ali Express pulleys has developed a squeak, and I had to clip the part cooling fan because my cheap 5015 fan failed, but I recorded about a minute of printing.

This is 60mm/s perimeters and infill at 80mm/s, which gets me best printed results. Slowing it down doesn’t make it visibly better. 0.33333 mm layers, so a bit coarse, this is a stand for my Oculus Quest, so I wanted it to look decent, but not enough to go to 0.16667 mm layers.

So please forgive the creaky pulley, repairs will have to wait until I pull the trucks. You can hear that it’s otherwise very quiet. My plan is to replace the part fan tonight.

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I currently have a highly modified MP3DP with a 335x335 bed on it and would like to build this new machine with this size or larger bed

450mm rails for Y would do the trick. 500mm for the CF rail would be adequate as well. This would give you a footprint a little over 2’ wide and just under 2’ deep.

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Blockquote
I currently have a highly modified MP3DP with a 335x335 bed

Any pictures?

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I think Ryan would ban me if I shared photos. I crudely cut it apart and screwed and glued it back together to fit the 13"x13" print bed I needed to print props for my Christmas light display. I have since edited Ryan’s drawing to make clean parts, but this is so ugly, I can not get myself to tear it apart.

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To be certain, the MK3 heated bed link to amazon from the docs does not come with a NTC 100k thermistor. I should order one in addition to the bed, right?

I see they are out of stock in the V1 shop at the moment.

Yes. Have a look around thought. Finding one pre soldered is pretty key, it can be really hard to solder too as that bed sinks the heat really really fast.

There are a bunch of beds out there these days, silicone heaters, all sorts of stuff. I linked that because I had a few of them so I designed for them, but it seems the MK3 aluminum is becoming hard to find.

Gotcha, i’ll look around a bit for a good bed. I assume I may need to adjust the bed plate cutout to match up with the mounting holes of whatever bed I pick. Or have you found these mounting holes are pretty standard spacing?

You will need to edit. Now is probably a good time to start your own build thread so others can follow along in all the design and sourcing choices you are making. They will quickly get lost in this thread.

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