The LR3 is so far ahead of the LR2 in that regard already. I was talking with @macboy about protecting these, since his use is carving ice. The motors are already almost clear, it’s a simple matter to protect them from the carving area.
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Awesome
@vicious1
Hey, I’m working on remixing the awesome blank control board case you made available, for use with SKR Pro 1.2 and BTT TFT35 E3.
What is this slot for?
I’m wanting to move my two cooling fans from my existing case, and wondering if I can afford to move this slot and/or delete it. I gather it serves a purpose, I just don’t know what yet.
OK, thanks! That means I can remove that slot, since my LCD cables will connect to the BTT TFT directly through the lid of the case. This will all make sense what I reveal my remix.
LR3 control box case for SKR Pro 1.2 with TFT35 E3 — based on V1’s Blank Case CAD files
FREE STL FILES AVAILABLE HERE: Printables
I’ve remixed the excellent “blank case control box” model provided by Ryan, to support SKR Pro 1.2 with TFT35 E3 and with two cooling fans. It also has openings for accessing the main board’s USB slots and SD card slot, and an opening for accessing the touchscreen’s SD card slot.
The two fans used are these Noctua 40x10’s.
I’m currently printing it, and it’s a pretty big print run, so hopefully it will come out as desired and not need redoing.
Below is a screen shot and the model parts with print times, which are based on .3 layer height and .6 wall width. I’m accomplishing that print spec with both 0.4 nozzles and 0.6 nozzles.
| Part | Print time | Grams of Filament |
|---|---|---|
| Base | 11h 34m | 182g |
| Lid | 6h 20m | 106g |
| TFT Holder | 4h 21m | 73g |
| Reset Button | 0h 4m | 1g |
UPDATE (2022-06-06): I switched the orientation of the touchscreen. The following are updated screen shots.
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The original design was like yours, 3 parts design… bottom/front, Top/back, screen and no emergency bottom. Now, this is a 2 part design as I have to move the screen forward to accommodate the big stop bottom.
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2.1x5.5mm DC Power Jack Plug Adapter Connector — to help with modeling
I use these 2.1x5.5mm DC Power Jack Plug Connectors in a variety of things so modeled this to help with plans & designs.
Here is an affiliate link to the batch of connectors I use: https://amzn.to/395r5zi
I’ve posted it on Printables in both STL format and SketchUp (.skp) format.
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I’m trying a little something on the case. A “snap in place” touch. On the two “rails” on the base that slide into tracks on the lid, I added 0.35mm bulbs, and corresponding ridges inside the tracks on the lid to constrain when the bulbs snap in. Will let you know how it goes. Should have some prints in due time. Here are screen shots to get context and then zoom in:
More screen shots of 3D modeling for my remix of the V1 case CAD files to suit SKR Pro 1.2 main board and BTT TFT35-E3, this time showing the DC connector “sled” and “clamp” - and the exterior view where the power cord plugs in.
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Got my Y rail installed on my metal strut. Drilled and tapped the holes. Pleased with how it came out. Case parts for my SKR Pro 1.2 and TFT are almost done printing.
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It looks terrific - I think you “know” me well enough to know that when I say I was thinking of doing similarly - I was! (without the strut). I think the “brace” really looks as though it’s part of the machine.
I suspect in the end I will extend the table in both directions or quite possibly even simply build a new one which might actually involve less work.
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I went ahead and posted my …
LowRider 3 CNC - table extenders to use LR2 table (with metal struts) with LR3 - endstop/tensioner supports
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They look great!
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Looks great, I’ll anxiously await the printables. Thank you. 
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@MisterAmerican
Hey, if you are meaning these:
LowRider 3 CNC - table extenders to use LR2 table (with metal struts) with LR3 - endstop/tensioner supports
…The link I posted above should be clickable to the Printables download page. Same here in this post too. Let me know if that’s what you were meaning and if you’re having any difficulty.
I got out a brand-new bit, 2-flute, up-cut, flat end mill, and still had tear out like crazy when cutting this 1/8” thick hardboard. I used a 1 mm depth of cut. This happened for me both on the LowRider 2 and the LowRider 3.