Hi guys, i’m currently in the process of building a lowrider2 out of Australia.
A lot of differences with the whole metric bolt situation, and 25mm tubes etc but working through it and its coming along nicely.
I had this cheap ozito trim router in my garage and as a first entry to the world of cnc i whipped up a plate to use it while i work towards a nice powerful spindle later.
Anyway since i figured there may be some other person out there who wants the measurements for the ozito trim router i’d post them on thingiverse and attach it to the forums.
(edit: apparently new users cant add links to posts? if you stumble upon this lost soul, just go to thingiverse and search LTM-3000 its titled “Lowrider 2 Ozito LTM-3000 Plate”)
@ rm2kdev as I get closer to the time I start to build (still a few months out) in Aus, I am also starting to think about that metric bolt thing… I have some thoughts but everything seems to be a kind of reinvention of the wheel!
Would you care to provide a bit more detail on how you attacked those problems?
And thanks for the Ozito link - not sure where I’ll head - may use the Ryobi I already have. Cheers!
The table was actually a pool table i found on facebook marketplace very sturdy, level AND FREE! just had to pick it up.
I’ve built a frame on top of that out of structural pine and 2 sheets of 16mm MDF, i used 2 35mm rails on the edge to get a track for the roller wheels to roll on.
The photo of the tool plate is the one i uploaded in this thread.
I’m pretty much as far along as i can get now pending another 2 plate of 3D prints then im pending on electronics shipping out of china so… i’d have ordered everything in the kit but USD to AUD right now is crazy and the shipping ontop pushed the bill of materials well into the $500aud range.
Sourcing manually as i did for this build i’m at about $120aud but i’m reusing a lot of parts which i had laying around from 3d printer builds etc.
the total dimensions of this low rider will be 1200x2400mm thats a little over the 4" recommendation but i’m planning to build a 2 story X gantry with 4 beams for structure, as well as a set of under wheels.
Eventually i’ll swap the NEMA 17’s with some higher torque ones.
So far in my experience building this the metric bolts have not been a problem, i used the 25mm 3D print set, and 25mm aluminium tube from bunnings. i called up a local fastners supplier and gave them the parts list in metric total price was $38 for all the fasteners, bolts, nylocs etc.
The 3D prints are happily accepting the metric bolts and as the instructions on the assembly page stated, longer bolts are fine in most places (i.e. the Y frame wheels that call for 95mm bolts which i don’t believe exist?, so i got 100mm and they’re working fine)
As far as problems so far, I’ve experienced none, i cut the plates that call for 1/4 and 1/2 inch mdf out of 6mm and 12mm mdf and they are spaced fine, plenty thick enough etc.
I’m a bit snobbish about imperial hardware - particularly as I don’t have any spanners to suit!
I have time to follow your build and decide which route to follow, but I suspect that much as I’d love to simply order the kit - it isn’t going to work out. There’ll be a middle ground I’m sure - but I’m WAAY ahead of myself here - my printer is still in customs!!
When your printer arrives (dunno what you’ve ordered), just make sure the first things you do are upgrade the firmware to the latest marlin, calibrate calibrate calibrate and dial in your settings.
Im sure tolerances are built into the lowrider models, but my printer is dialed in and its an EXACT fit for the bolts, I’m sure if it was out of whack in any axis by even a little bit assembly would have been more challenging.
Also don’t waste your time with cheap material you’ll spend hours dialing in problems that dont exist, then you swap to a new roll of PLA and have a whole new set of problems IMO find a middle ground pay a few bucks more and get something with a reputation etc.
oh and get ready for a long print, since your printers new… dont print the parts over night lest you burn your house down…
instead, split it into 7 or 8 ‘plates’ of parts and print them one at a time day by day over the course of a week it still takes 60 hours but it happens in 8 x 6 hour prints while you’re awake and monitoring it. #safetyfirst these are long prints
oh another tip for you, i went to bigw and picked up a set of inline skates for $35 it came with 8 x 64mm wheels, the bill of materials calls for 60mm wheels but it seems very uncommon these 64’s look like they will work fine and its dirt cheap for 8 of them.
you’ll still need to shuck the bearings out and replace them with good abec9’s as the bore is 6mm and all of the threading is 8mm but it was a cheap source of wheels.
Most inline skate wheels (at least fir hockey skates) are 72, 76, 80mm. Goalie skates have 5 wheels for some reason, and they are 60mm size. They are rare though (because inline goalies are rare). Maybe 64mm are for kids skates or “aggressive” skate park skates?
Having wheels that are too tall shrinks the size of the rails that will fit. The belt also may be a little misaligned. But 64mm is probably ok.
I’ll report back once I’ve got the belts on with regards to alignment etc visually it looks okay i ran a straight edge over it today to check and it all seemed alright but i guess 4mm would be hard to spot!
Will report back on this one so we can get the docs updated as 64mm is very common and the 60’s i cant even find locally
Thanks for the advice - I won’t be printing till I’m absolutely on top of things - have a Prusa Mk3 on the way, so hope that will shortcut at least some of the learning curve.
The skate wheels too - my head isn’t yet into that sort of search - but you’ve flipped a switch in my brain now regarding the whole project!
and its coming along nicely.
i’d have ordered everything in the kit but USD to AUD right now is crazy and the shipping ontop pushed the bill of materials well into the $500aud range.
