Caught me just on my way to the post office, might break a record for quickest order received.
Here is what the test looks like with the parts installed in the DW660 and 0 RPM and the black part of my shaft pointed at the reader.
I may have a problem.
[attachment file=59731]
Too close, or the LED is too bright.
I think the LED is to bright. I pulled this data sheet and it looks like at 30mils is where you get the best performance. Also here is a link to a data sheet for the QRD1114.
[attachment file=âCollector Current VS Distance.pngâ]
I put a 1k resistor on my led instead of a 220 and that really helped. I donât get the highest peak but now I get a more defined high/low.
Looks like I am getting good data. Only turning by hand.
[attachment file=â2018-05-09 22_27_29-COM5.pngâ]
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Looks like I am getting good data. Only turning by hand.
[attachment file=â2018-05-09 22_27_29-COM5.pngâ]
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That is a small spread, it should be bigger.
Wow, almost all the sensors are sold. I will have to order more. I have the Nanoâs tested and in stock, https://vicious1-com.myshopify.com/products/arduino-nano the first batch of dimmers have not even shipped yet.
In case any of you are wondering how to test them out.
This sketch is just a few posts above, https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/hardware-needed-for-a-software-fix/page/8/#post-59480 The PID sketch is still unchanged on GitHub, I think I will branch it to remove the LCD code I put in. I donât really think we will need it. It is very easy to add back though.
Here is the basic test breadboard
[attachment file=60086]
Anyone who has purchased it also got a 3rd resistor, It can be used in place of the top one in that pic. I find it too bright for a good reading in a tight space but included them just in case. If run as setup in that pic I can get a reading from 1010 to 70 with different test objects.
Soldered up I can sneak the 3 wires out of the 660 vent slot.
[attachment file=âIMG_20180515_191424~2.jpgâ]
But I havenât tried Toddâs cap yet.
I have posed the cap here if anyone else would like to try it.
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Here is a test from tonight.
I painted the part and top of the shaft with flat black paint. Looking at the plot I am getting much better results.
This is at full power on the Dewalt 660.
[attachment file=âTest full Power.jpgâ]
That looks great, That looks way better than expected. I was messing with mine yesterday, and then something came up. Seeing your numbers I am really confident about the sensor. I hope the dimmers ship soon so we can wrap this thing up, I think it all works as is now and just needs some PID tuning.
I was thinking we might have to play with the reflector shape and all of that (maybe a pie slice) but we are well within the sensors limits an you proved that.
Just got word the first test batch of the new dimmer boards will be done and shipped soon. I have a small batch of 10 en route and a larger order a week or so behind that.
Thatâs just pretty.
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I donât know, some have been placed a little crooked on the mat. 
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Awesome project and great progress!
Has anyone looked at the innards of the Makita RT0701 router? If not, it is quite interesting. This thread inspired me to channel my inner AvE as well and pull apart my brand new in the box RT0701 before even powering it on (spoiler, it still worked when I got it all back together).
It has an integrated speed controller that uses a permanent magnet on the rotor for RPM sense. There is a noticeable delay in speed changes when moving the knob which I would assume is some form of PID controls.
I did not do any load RPM holding tests as I have no external means of speed verification at the moment, but thought I would share this much at least.
Please find the pictures below:
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Interesting, inside the Dewalt 611 is similar. I doubt there would be a way to tap into those but they can be bypassed (usually). I have not used that router but the 611âs built in speed control isnât good enough. Adding an RPM reading to that one looks like a hall effect sensor would be best.
It appears as though there would be more than enough room to add another hall effect sensor into the mix for external speed reference.
The speed knob appears to be a simple potentiometer. Would it be possible to bypass this potentiometer and feed in a variable voltage signal?
On second thought, the current control schema not being known may muck with things too much if trying to feed in a variable voltage signal. Probably not a good idea to try this with this kind of router.