Portable Lowrider in Annapolis

Many thanks.
Have a nice weekend.

Here are the DXF files for the cradle as promised.

Laminate 2 exteriors and one interior of 3/4 ply together using the holes for registration when laminating the layers. It may need a bit of filing depending on the thickness of your ply.

The extra holes are for an adjustable foot system that I’m still playing with. It should just slide into the slot when done so try not to be too sloppy with the glue.

The rails should be 3" high.

LowriderCradle.zip (8.9 KB)

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Here is the end clip that fits onto the end of a piece of 3/4 unistrut

it’s designed to work with:

I made mine with a pair of magnets which are probably unneeded but that’s what the holes on the bottom are for.

This was really just a prototype that happened to work really well so I never bothered to refine it. The endcap doesn’t match up quite right and I probably should have used the wider strut instead of the 3/4 but I didn’t know it existed.

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One issue that I found was that because I keep a coil of extra belt for larger configurations that it sometimes got in the way when homing as the excess belt would get pinched.I’ve also found that sensorless homing does better with a firm bumper.

I created this hard bumper that attaches to the top of the unistrut and hits the wheels as a stop. The bolt can be adjusted to fine tune the squareness of the lowrider.

This will require a longer rail than the calculator provides for.

The flush mount brackets that I used to hold the panels to the rails are from Rockler:

Don’t be tempted like I was by similar ones from amazon as the tolerances are too loose and they rattle. I now have a 50 pack of the cheapos in the drawer.

Keeping with the theme of keeping my low rider portable I wanted to keep the electronics package self contained.

I had a separate control box on my mpcnc and a tft display which were constantly getting banged around and I had issues with wires coming loose etc.

The low rider case houses an SKR 1.3, power supply, buck converter, and a raspberry pi 3A. It’s hard to tell from the picture but the electronics actually cup around the stepper on the y plate to keep it as low profile as ready.

I used soldered aviation plugs to connect wires which challenged my skills but they won’t be coming loose any time soon.

Here’s the finished box…


It’s kind of a one off design for a specific board and power supply but I’m happy to share if anyone wants the stl’s.

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I really like the tidiness of this. Is this box on thingiverse or would you be willing to share? I went with the same aviator connectors on mine but I used a very small box that only held the board, a fan, and a switch.

Sure here ya go:

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Absolutely brilliant! Beautifully done!

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I posted this a bit ago in a different thread but I wanted to include it in my build log for completeness.

This is a Bridge that clips onto the lowrider2 X axis servo motor and to the router to receive the wiring bundle coming from the drag chain. It’s designed to fit the Makita 700 routers but should work with others as well.

You can see it in action on the pictures above.

This is so fantastic it’s got me thinking of scrapping my folding table (which still isn’t complete or good enough to share).
What an elegant way to have a table that breaks down so small. Even with a portable folding table, you still have a considerable (26" x 10’ in my case) footprint to deal with.
Being one who does not have a dedicated shop space at home, and one who shares a two car garage with my significant other along with a tractor, landscape tools and power tools, this will be a much easier sell than my table (which I have yet to have the cojones to bring home from the shop!)
FYI you shared the nc files not the dxf, I’m not sure my routing parameters will match what you use. If you could share the dxf’s that would be appreciated.

Ooops sorry about that try this:

I’ve also included the STEP files if that helps anyone.

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Thanks!
And the step file will be handy (want to increase width by 1")

Glad to help

It’s already oversized by 1.5 inches or so that may be enough for your needs.

Wow that’s enough to handle 49" mdf. Less work for me, bonus!

Yeah wasn’t sure about how I was going to attach the table to the rails so I padded the rails with 1x2s.

I guess you would want to attach the brackets directly to the rail and skip the padding if you wanted to have the spoil board be 49". I just use the extra space for lead ins when cutting full sheets.

Where exactly is this placed onto your build boss?

Sorry I don’t understand your question.

The flush mount brackets that you used pardon me

The bracket slides into the unistrut from the end.