Possible Material for LR3 YZ Plates

I got an idea in my head I have to try. I bought a 1/2" cutting board that was 12x18" which is perfect to make 2 YZ plates from. It’s solid and doesn’t flex at all and was only around $16 on Amazon. It just arrived today so here in a bit I’m going to give it a whirl using a 3d printed YZ plate as a template. The only concern I have are the screws holding the linear rails as everything else is bolted through it.



Time will tell, but it seems to be a good alternative to MDF. Very stiff and seems to hold the linear rail screws really well.

If anyone is interested in trying this, here is what I bought. They have it in multiple colors also!


That looks sharp. I like it.


Hey, great idea. I was just about to post asking if 5/8" plywood is OK to use for YZ plates, but after seeing your post here, I’m remembering I have quite a bit of 1/2" HDPE (black) lying around, most is large scraps leftover from a previous paying job, and there’s plenty to pick from for cutting YZ plates.


How thick is the HDPE cutting board you used?

I have some 1/2" HDPE, but I just went to check rigidity on it, and I don’t think it’s rigid enough.

It’s 1/2 inch. Mine is definitely stiff.

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Well, I guess I could have gotten away with it. I chickened out and went with some thick MDF I had (scraps from another project).

I’m still working on mine. Waiting on the board, drivers and screen to arrive this week. I think it will work pretty good, but just in case one of the first things I’m going to cut is a new set of MDF YZ plates to have as a backup.

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It may be that not all HDPE is created equal. Not sure. Yours may well be more rigid than these sheets I have.

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The linear rails will stiffen it up quite a bit too.

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That it will.

That’s what she said!

Wait… wrong forum… Never mind…

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How about making it with 12mm of acrylic?

Hello @xenon6582, welcome!

Yes, have seen acrylic YZ plates in some builds, for example Laser Cut Steel LR3 Build - #36 by jjwharris

Can find other material ideas at

Personally, I stuck with materials recommended by docs (e.g MDF YZ, Aluminum XZ) to minimize risk of running into issues. Hope that helps, cheers!

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Thank you for your reply.


I used 12mm acrylic, I’m quite happy with it. However, I did have issues with the linear rails binding - I haven’t quite figured out why they were binding, and have since just left the rails semi-loose while holding the screws in with Loctite.

A friend of mine suggested that laser cutting the acrylic plate did introduce a warp. I haven’t delved too deeply into it, as my LR3 is functioning.

But it may be something keeping in mind

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Would this work for the XZ plates also? The reason I’m asking is I’ve wasted a good bit of plastic trying to print the XZ plates. I keep getting a layer shift and I’m not sure why. My Ender 3 printed a ton of parts really well so far including the core with no layer shifting. I’m wondering if it’s b/c of the 70% infill but I’m not positive. I’ll probably make a new post to discuss the layer shifting issue but I wanted to ask if this could work for the XZ plates b/c then I could just print the stub parts and mill out the XZ as I’ve got a V1 MPCNC Primo that I can use.