I’ll be using this thread to document my MPCNC build!
I’m from Canada, love to tinker with electronics, SDR’s, 3d printing, micro controllers (besides the mandatory hockey and fishing 
Can’t wait to get my MPCNC up and running!
Just Starting my build 
I’ve got all my parts ordered
Parts are now printing! …
Here’s the live feed of my printer working on the first batch of parts
I’m sure I’ll have a few questions along the way… I’ll be looking through others build logs for tips as well.
Cheers
Welcome to the crew, you should fit in just fine around here!
My build has been progressing slowly.
Had to do some necessary 3D printer repairs/upgrades to complete my parts, I have everything printed now, all the electronics, and hardware.
I’ll be using the standard 24x24 build.
I plan on using an old DIY 2x4 aquarium stand that will work perfectly… WAY overbuilt for this purpose. it’s a very easy, very sturdy design. It’s way fancier than it needs to be for this purpose too, lol
Here’s a link to the Design Template
That is a fun way to build it, as parts come off the printer you get to add them to the machine.
Some more progress! I had a heck of a time getting the x/y perpendicular to each other. Tightening C bolts a lot got things close… Still not perfect. Need to replace the tywraps with the proper size…
I also had an issue where the Y axis wasn’t letting the X axis rest properly on the mounts, (it would rock back and forth on the y axis rod). I filed/sanded down the inside of the y axis mounts a bit to allow it to sit lower, and stop the x axis from rocking (or bending when clamped down).
Quitting for the night. Gonna see if I can wire it up and get things moving tomorrow!
Go Canada! Ha! I actually miss the building part of these things. It’s a lot of fun. I guess I need to use them now to make other stuff to build. Just wanted to chime in on your thread to watch your progress. And I dig the subject line “Quartapounds”. Curious where that comes from. It’s got a cool ring to it.
Good call on the ziptie disclaimer too - Ryan might have unleashed on you : )
OMG.
Just got back from 3 hardware stores… Looking for the proper size tywraps/zip ties.
Home Depot, Canadian Tire, and Lowes… NOTHING! They have tiny 18lb ones, and thick 50lb ones… Which is the same thickness as the ones I have pictured above, too thick.
If someone had told me that out of all the things I needed for this project, that tywraps were going to be the hardest thing to source, I would have laughed.
I guess I Need to visit my electrical supply store in the morning (or wait for Amazon)…
At first, I was blaming it on the design of the part(the hole is too small)… then after reading around on the forum (specifically THIS thread) …I realized it’s by design. If they’re too big they won’t sit properly… but damn.
I actually had 3 of the proper sized ones laying around… Just short a few! Who’d have guessed the size would be so crucial! I might swap out the big ones I have for the 18lb ones just so things sit properly so I can get it running today.
They are definitely fun to build! Anticipating the sense of accomplishment when it’s fired up for the first time!
haha, I’ve heard I need to make sure I cut them …I can image how it’d feel to spend so much time engineering something and have someone leave a hack job on the tywraps at the very end of the build! Funny enough, my search for the right ones today came up short.
Quartapound is an old nickname from highschool, there are a few reasons for it, it does sound similar to my last name though. I use it online because it’s unique, I don’t have to worry about different username or adding random numbers on every site!
Hopefully posting a picture of my ‘crown’ in the near future!
You might find that any old zip tie will work to be honest. But be warned they do fail no matter which ones you use so you need spares. Not that they break - well, one did once. I have trouble getting the doubled over belt ones tight enough to hold really really well and have found twice now the belt has slipped out. I’ve now extended the belts a bit so I can triple zip the fold over and so far so good. Mine are from the cylindrical 4,200 assorted pack from Princess Auto so you KNOW they’re top quality. LOL
YESS!!!
We’re in business!
I forgot I had ordered 20T not 16T because of price/availability… So the first crown test needed an emergency abort to allow me to adjust steps per mm in the firmware.
I found a few others who did the same, they were told the increased speed/lower torque isnt a problem for drawing/3d printing or laser etching/cutting, but I’ll want the 16T for milling.
Still some fine-tuning to do but I’ve got the ball rolling!!
Ended up having to change the Steps per mm to 80 in firmware before my measurements matched Estlcam’s.
using A4988’s with all 3 jumpers, and 20T pulleys.
will setting the steps that low have an effect on my resolution at all?
Just tried drawing one of my favourites, detail seems pretty good, the entire drawing is only 76mm
It won’t have that much of an effect - the loss of resolution sounds bad when used as a percentage (80%) but in reality that means each step is 0.0125mm instead of 0.01mm. I’m sure there’s lots more math involved in determining the actual worst case error due to the larger pulleys, but I’m confident is saying it is less than 0.02mm.
Just got the 2.3w hooked up and running! Wasnt too bad making the necessary adjustments in firmware (the 10hz thing and changing pin 9 to 44)
Just printed off the first image I found and I think it’s not a bad start!
Wow! You’re miles ahead of where I started out with my laser. Good job! That was moving pretty fast too. What feed rate was that running?
Thanks! My success relied completely on the foundation you guys have laid out. I was just following along others footsteps, and it all came together with basically zero issues!
I used ImageToGcode for that run, I copied the settings from the screenshot on the thingiverse download page. 20mm/sec burn, 100 travel. max power 55%
55%?! That’s a nice burn for 55%.
I’ll have to play with my travel speeds. Im sitting right around 20-25mm/s burn to get optimal results. But I haven’t separated the travel too much yet. What did you use to get the gcode? Lightburn?
I used ImagetoG-Code, the app that was referenced in the laser how to area. I did make sure the laser was well focused, not sure if that made a difference to allow me to run at a lower percentage, what do most or running 2.3 watt lasers set their percentage to? I imagine it would have a lot to do with the image you’re trying to reproduce. did this one at same power settings but went up to 25 m m per second to make sure the detailed parts didn’t get overburnt.
Are you using the one that’s “branded” with the Vicious1 logo (you’ll know what I mean if you do)? I forgot about that software. I should play with it some more. I’m finding light burn pretty effective too mind you.
