There are many open source extrusion framed 3D printers out there. The cut box version is what I was interested in because it has the possibility of being a very low cost and simple to build printer. It’s a more unique design to work with.
The thought I have for improving the flat panel version of the Repeat is to rely upon the dimensional accuracy of 3D printed parts rather than milled parts. For example, a set of 3-axis corners could be printed that are of sufficient size and strength, and flat unmilled panels attached to these corners. The unit could be built with just a cordless drill without the need for a cnc machine.
So far I have built the mpcnc, lowrider v2, lowrider v3 and mp3dp v2. One modification I make to these designs is to attach din rails somewhere for mounting electronics and other parts. So for the Repeat V2, my thought is that a standardized set of parts such as 3D printed corners where you can attach flat panels or metal tubing as well as securely fasten din rails to the corner parts would have a lot of possibilities. A set of 3D printed parts could be designed that fasten securely to the din rails such as motor mounts, linear rails, linear rods, endstops, electronics, cable holders and so on.
Just my 2 cents - it’s been a lot of fun building these things. Thanks and keep up the good work!
I have a whole build ready. The problem is every time I print a part I find something I need or want to change. I guess I just keep at it until it stops being fun.
My latest obsession is this part…I think it is just about done.
The clearances are stupid, I wonder how well this will print for other people. I mean, there are screwdriver/screw slots everywhere. Like Swiss cheese.
I’m guessing here that I’m looking at a Z motor on its side?
Now I’m kinda torn. I have all the pieces and printed parts for a Repeat printer sitting here, finally got my heated bed in Thursday for a regular sized 220mm square build…
All the parts are pretty rough but it makes it more likely to rework them. So if it works well I’ll make them look a bit fancier. There is room to add a CF tube if needed, but I don’t think it is.
So are you going to look at refreshing the v2 anytime? I really do not want the expense of a core xy printer, but sometimes I just see that v2 and want one.
No, I don’t think so. The CoreXY far outperforms the V2 bed slinger. It is a pretty huge step backwards. The speed, print quality, and ease of use are just much better. To the point I feel weird not use some sort of high flow extruder. I am easily constrained by max flow and to a lesser degree part cooling.
Not yet. I did the CAD in 300 and made sure it works with 200. I have 5 printers with 200mm parts left to convert. The ones with PCB beds I will probably swap out to 300’s
Glad you left provisions for the cf tube! I ended up asking for a refund on those stupid linear rails i was waiting for so now I get to find more to order. Got half a sheet of half inch prefinished ply laying around. Orbiter 2.0…so light!
I really gotta catch up the honey do list, so I can get some fun stuff done!
It saves so much space! This one has a much smaller footprint volume than the last one with actually a bit more build volume. Can’t wait to show a side by side picture.
The extruder to rail mount is night and day better than the wheels and CF tube mount. Much more rigid. And if you where to do a bowden or ultra light setup it has lots of room to do stuff on the side instead of just out front.
I think I am starting to see signs of my CF tubes cracking on the Repeat, I am getting odd printing artifacts.
I have a nice wire routing loop that seems awesome.
I have yet to work out a great filament loop, but I do think I have an idea for that.
Printed extrusion brackets are no good. Any of the metal ones are good. I think I want to swap some out for wood or plastic milled ones to add some flair.
So far this can be build in a box and does not have to be extrusion based, but I really want to mount that “B” stepper on top of the rail to solve my one issue. If I did that an alternate version would be super easy to make for a “in a box” version.
Just throwing this out there, probably alright on your smaller build, but the rail might need a backer for a 300mm printer. My printer’s rail is rotated 90deg from yours and it gets “floppy” at high speeds. A few of us are using aluminum angle as a backer/stiffener.
