Repeat V2?

In that orientation it’s not really going to deflect much. Since it’s the bed that moves for Z the only up/down the rail will see is the very slight sag the weight of the carriage will give it. With it this narrow, that sag probably won’t be noticeable in a print.

1 Like

Yes. The design does allow for a stiffener with minor tweaks, if it is ever needed but I feel the same as Barry. I don’t think it’s needed.

2 Likes

Did you update the file in the post up above? Still want some test prints?

Z Post.zip (197.1 KB)
Viola!
Same name, don’t get them confused

Okay, I said I would release it. I have not tested the XY stepper mounts. I made some last minute changes. SO if you want to get started save those for last and I will print and test them next week. So Releasing it just to not go back on my work but not 10000% done yet.

Basic rundown.

*To change the size; you need to change the XYZ linear rail length. I tested it a few saves ago and it worked fine. Open and save the “parameters” file, then the rail/s you changed. Then open, update, and save the “coreXY V2” file, and then you can open and update the “MP3DP v4” file.

Sorry Fusion handles this sort of thing very poorly as far as I can tell.
X=Usable+100mm
Y=Usable +50mm
Z=Usable+50mm

*Hardware, linear rails all use M3x8 (plus the one stepper mount marked with an “8”.) M2.5x12 for the endstops, M3x10mm for the rest that is not M5x30 &nuts.

*If you are using the hemera the previous fan and BL touch mount are fitting perfect. Any other extruder, there is plenty of room.

*Firmware is not in the builder yet…I was a dumb dumb and deleted it off my desktop so I need to rework it.

*I have a filament tube holder and LCD holder coming soon. Going to play with the board location to optimize this a bit.

12 Likes

Thanks Ryan. Looks awesome. I will start working on a build this week. :metal: :metal: :+1:

2 Likes

I will check in when I can for questions but will be pretty unavailable until Monday evening.

4 Likes

Interesting

2 Likes

Enjoy your vacation. :smiley: :grin:

4 Likes

Just downloaded the file, notice no more optical endstop?
How well does the Z belt block holds in place and align with the linear rail with only one screw?

I’m going to do a new build, as I don’t want to mess with a fully functional wood frame Repeat V1.
The build will be the same size as the Repeat V1 300x300.

What I have on hand:
I will be using the same 120V heated bed from Fulament.com that was supposed to be a replacement for the CR10S-pro, but never got around to do it.
Solid State Relay 40DA
2- 400mm linear rails
All the nuts and bolts
2020 connector brackets
2020 profile connectors
2- 1000mm 2020 aluminum extrusion (Not enough 2020)

So far I ordered (slow boat):
BTT Manta M8P with CB1 and heat sink
BTT EBB42 CAN V1.2
BiQU H2 V2 - Going to try it as it is 170g lighter than the Hemera, if I don’t like or doesn’t work the way it should, I will take the Hemera out off the CR10S-Pro and that printer will get this one or maybe will be retired :thinking:

Still need:
3 linear rails
5 Stepper motors
Idlers
2020 aluminum extrusion
Maybe some 1/8"-1/4" acrylic for an enclosure?
And some odds and ends.

This is going to be a slow build, and I will start another building thread once I have all the parts and the time to start.

2 Likes

Do you have a rail for X in there? The y only has to be 350 for a 300 bed if I understand correctly. Are you going to build it a little bigger or cut the rails down? I ordered 400s, too, so i might order a 350 and just cut one.

4 Likes

Nope, too big, no noticeable improvements.

Tension keeps it aligned.

I wanted to give it a shot as well.

1 Like

Sorry about that…
I should have mentioned I do have an extra 450 with 2 pillows that I’ planning to cut.

You are correct. The idea here is to have a little more space in the front to be able to mount the screen on an angle and clear the bed.
I’m planning to use Klipper and Klipperscreen on a BTT TFT50 or even a Raspberry Pi 7" touch display that I have lying around.

1 Like

A couple of the idler slots are a bit tight now with the stand offs. I shaved them down with a razor knife and will use the ones I printed. I need to go into the model and correct them, though.

The hemera mount screws are a touch too tight on the XY blocks, I am going to move them over .5mm. So a new center/core Whatever I called it. The current one could work with a little corner shaving, or file down one screw head a tiny bit, if you already have it printed.

1 Like

How much tilt range does the plate have, enough for Repeat v2 to qualify as a 5 axis printer, X/Y/Z/RY/RX ? :grinning:

Any operating or longevity concerns about Z steppers being so close to heated bed? I like the space saving of Z steppers riding with the bed. Does that help with performance too, or would performance be same/worse if Z steppers located in same pos as Repeat v1?

Am looking forward to building. Curious what stock Repeat v2 is expected to be compared to (other than v1)?

10 degrees, it could be pretty easily set for more. When the software becomes more readily available, it will be fun to use!

I do not believe so. I use insulation and there is the plate to block it. The mounts would get in trouble far before the stepper would. No benefit other than size, I take that back, half the belt means half the stretch. But no no real other benefit.

Not understanding this one.

2 Likes

Sounds great. I like the LR3’s adjustable belt tensioners.

Was curious what a stock Repeat v2 build is expected to be comparable to, performance wise. Guessing it’s somewhere between Ender 5 and Voron, but a lot closer to Voron?

Oh, I have no idea. I have not used anything other than my own machines in 6+ years. On top of that I am not known for testing speed limits of my machines. I look for the fastest I can print and get minimal to know ghosting and as much accuracy as possible.

With that said…most any corexy will have very similar numbers I would assume, with a comparable firmware.

3 Likes

Turns out my old toothed idlers are 14mm tall and the new ones are 13.2mm. I am going to leave the slots alone so it fits both, slight shaving is needed for 14mm. This will keep the belts centered better.

Editing the center piece now.

2 Likes