SBase, Smoothieware

Sounds good. I have a few more questions if you don’t mind answering them. I am still planning to put a fuse on the 12volt line. Do you know what amp fuse I should use? I am not running a heatbed or extruder off it. I am only connecting the motors & endstops. From looking at that config file, should be only 4.5amps for the motors, so maybe a 5amp or 7.5amp fuse. Are you using x & y endstops? I might have to change the wiring on those. Do you have a photo of yours all wired up? The last question is there a resistor plug required on the hotend thermistor connection?

  1. Do you know what amp fuse I should use? I am not running a heatbed or extruder off it. I am only connecting the motors & endstops - From looking at that config file, should be only 4.5amps for the motors, so maybe a 5amp or 7.5 amp fuse. - I am not using fuses. I maybe should. I am not sure how to impliment a fuse - If you end up using fuses let me know what you did and I will follow suite. I know you would want the fuses to blow before reaching the max limit. The config file says 1.5 amperes per axis but each axis is wired in parallel so 3 amps per axis?? Not sure how that works - already forgot my RETS Electronics ohms law stuff :slight_smile:

  2. Are you using x & y endstops? YES - I am using the alpha, beta and gamma (x,y,z) min endstops for homing - I eventually want to use max endstops as well - I am using WGCD 20 PCS AC 125V 5A Micro Limit Mini Switch Roller Lever Arm Snap Action SPDT 3 Pin from amazon - pack of 20 for less than $10.00

  3. The last question is there a resistor plug required on the hotend thermistor connection? - I dont know. I purchase my hotend from the vicious1 shop MK8 already built and have been using the same one for over a year and half without a single problem.

I have images of the smoothie board wired up inside my enclosure _ perpetually a WIP.
I have my cables punched down on a cat5 patch panel and have allowed for significant excess, I plan on building a better box. I have everything housed in the same enclosure. MKS Base 1.3, usb hub, power supply, 3 12v cooling fans, panic switch from vicious1 shop and my mini windows 10 PC.

I am in the process of adding a MKS TFT32

I have some more details on my blog -

Thanks for all the info. I like the way you have all your electronics in one box. I might have to eventually do something like that. In the mean while, I started designing a case to put my MKS Sbase board in for now. I used a design I found on thingiverse as a starting point.

I printed this one - - it turned out ‘ok’ I should have printed the front with supports and had to sand a little. but everything fits inside perfectly.

I received my MKS SBASE board yesterday. This board looks a lot neater than any of the arduino boards I have bought. I started fine tuning my case design to make sure the dimensions work. I will probably print it tomorrow if I do not think of anything else to change. I used as a starting point & copied the design into openscad & made a lot of the dimensions variable. I did a test print with the mounting bumps & they fit perfectly. I made a rough 3d model of the board adding the components on the board I needed to check for location & size. Seems like these MKS boards are a little different between venders. I added holes which should be a good size for the network, USB, Power & Fan holes & made them with no overhangs. I also made the walls 2mm thick with a couple of reinforcing Ribs since I made it thinner than the 5mm original. I also added mounting holes on the outside to mount to the shelf under my CNC if I need to. I am still contemplating redoing this design to make a short base & essentially make this the cover. That would make the bottom openings simpler, something like this raspberry case design Here is what this MKS SBASE case currently looks like.

Well that definately looks better. I looked on thingiverse for a case for the MKS BASE and didn’t find anything close to as good as your design.

I am on the lookout for an old server case that I can use to put everything in it and mount it to my network rack. one with slide out rails would be even more awesome.

Where are you located James? I wish I had known I scrapped about 35 blades the other day… I may have others around.

I decided to make the base the shorter part & make the top cover the taller print. I printed the base tonight. The top is probably going to take 8.5 to 9 hours to print. I have 4 outside mounting pads to connect the top & bottom together with screws & 2 mounting pads to mount it to the wood shelf under the MPCNC. I extended the reinforcing ribs to hold the 2 parts together, so I may not need to screw the 2 parts together.

I am in small town of livingston tn.

I have about finished my enclosure for this board after making one last change to it. I am now looking at the couple of jumpers on the board. This page seems have a good writeup on setting this board up. Since this has the DRV8825 drivers on board, should I set the jumper J3 to 1/32. Also, do I need to change the Jumper J4 from 3V3 to 5V? That jumper seems to be related to the limit switches. I may not hook them up initially, but the switches I am using are mechanical limit switches.


I have mine set to 1/32 stepping and left the limit switches to three vilts. I think the reason you can set it to 5 volts is if you are using 5volt powered endstops.

I published the MKS SBASE enclosure I customized on thingiverse. You could actually use this for most any electronics board by adjusting some variables in the openscad files.

Which is the best firmware to use for this Gowoops MKS SBASE V1.3 board.

The firmware listed here:

or the firmware from direct from Smoothie.

That instructables article on the MKS SBASE board recommends using the one from Smoothie.

I am personally using the one linked on osoyoo’s site. No issues with it, yet.

I diffed those 2 firmware’s & they are actually the same.

After a few tries, I finally got it to move the motors in the correct direction & have the jumper J3 set to the 1/32 steps. I used Ryan’s config.sys. I still seem to have some hiccups in the communication between the MKS SBASE board & my laptop because the Repetier host is sometimes timing out connecting. I hooked a network cable between my laptop running Windows 7 & the board, hardcoding for the network card on the computer & hardcoding in the config.sys file, I tried bringing up the web interface using It brings up the interface, but it does not seem to work. I see there is a way to put that interface on the SD card & I might try that tomorrow. Looking at the video on this page, looks like that might create a better web interface.

I was using IE11 for web access, so I might try firefox with it tomorrow. Looks like this board is going to work well. I just need to get past these minor problems.

I got the web interface working today. I used a different laptop, so that might have been my issue. Here are a couple of photos of how I have it wired up. The little plastic part between the P/S & the board holds a 5 amp ATC fuse. I have some 7.5 amp & 10 amp fuses also, but 5A seems like it should be enough for the x, y & z motors. I am going to put a plastic cover over the electronics & a wood cover all of it to protect it more.

I have mine all wired up & should be ready to cut something tomorrow. I had to change Ryan’s config.txt file a little with regards to the limit switches. My 2 wire mechanical limit switches are wired the way my 3d printer is which I think is opposite of what Ryan does. I noticed James’ config.txt had the endstops inverted from what I used. I included a photo of how my limit switches are wired. I am also only using the X & Y limit switch

Here is the portion of the config.txt file I changed:

optional enable limit switches, actions will stop if any enabled limit switch is triggered

alpha_limit_enable true # set to true to enable X min and max limit switches
beta_limit_enable true # set to true to enable Y min and max limit switches
#gamma_limit_enable false # set to true to enable Z min and max limit switches

alpha_min_endstop 1.24^ # add a ! to invert if endstop is NO connected to ground
alpha_homing_direction home_to_min # or set to home_to_max and set alpha_max
alpha_min 0 # this gets loaded after homing when home_to_min is set
beta_min_endstop 1.26^ # add a ! to invert if endstop is NO connected to ground
beta_homing_direction home_to_min #
beta_min 0 #

alpha_max_endstop nc
beta_max_endstop nc

One thing I was wondering about changing was the 1.5amp gamma_current. Since there are 2 X & Y motors & only 1 Z motor, I was wondering if this could be half the current that the X & Y are using? Mine is wired the way it was with the original MPCNC. With a short test of running the X & Y motors, I noticed the Z motor stays on & is a little warm & the X & Y motors are room temperature after this test. That motor does not get very warm after a 20 minute run, so it is not really a problem for me. Does that Z motor stay engaged to keep the Z axis tight?

Any recent updates for people using Smoothieware? I’ll be doing an MPCNC build soon, and I’d like to go with one of these MKS SBASE boards - I’m wondering how this worked out for people a few months down the line.

Well I hacked on it for 3 months and gave on smoothie board. Good for 3d printing. But not for cnc . Can’t do better than going with the standard already established by the admin.



I’m not a fan of the board but there should be no issue with cnc it is much easier than milling. What was your problem? Did you try my setup file?