Site, Forum, Ryan - opinions and concerns

Can anyone point me to information on depth/size of the bits.
As in how much of the cutting part of the bit can be made to reach.

For instance, I see in this thread that 3/4 in. is nominally a maximum.
Yet I see routers on the net that claim 5 in. penetration!? …yet I have yet to see a bit that is long enough to even reach 2 in.!?

I need to understand the dynamics of the bits and how to create something that is deep…
Will I have to create layers to be carved separately then piece them together?

This is critical to my decision on what router to start with.
The Lowrider is the one I am contemplating.
It appears it can adjust to massive height, a good thing as the substrate may be quite tall, but the depth of penetration is altogether a separate distance.


  • what is the longest/most penetrating 1/4 bit
  • are there smaller size bits, that will allow to carve finer resolutions?
  • etc…

You can get very long bits. I have a 1/4" bit with a 1.25" cutting depth. I’ve seen 2.5" length ones at hardware stores.

There’s a video on here somewhere of someone using a LR2 to carve surfboard blanks. He must be using a bit that’s over 6" long. Of course he’s carving styrofoam, which is a very low strength, low density medium, easily carved

Keep in mind though that the longer the piece that you stick in a collet, the more leverage it has to do bad things to your collet, or the router bearings, so anything longer than an inch or so, you should be careful of how you use it.

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Some thoughts for you to consider about routers and bits:

  • A 5" plunge will be for a full size router, not the trim routers recommend for the LowRider. Full size routers are significantly heavier and would cause issues with movement and acceleration if put on a LowRider.
  • Longer bits flex (deflect), so they don’t cleanly follow the router path. Full sized routers mitigate this problem somewhat by supporting 3/8" and 1/2" shank router bits.
  • You want router bits to shave when cutting, not grind. Grinding results in burned wood and short life for the bits. Getting bits to shave is a balancing act between the diameter of the bit, the number of flutes in the bit, the RPM, and the speed you move the router.
  • Longer straight bits are common like this one. I use the 2" version for cutting 2" foam board to great success, and I’ve used it to cut lumber (1 1/2") with some success. This is not a typical bit for CNC work, but it can be used.
  • With a CNC machine, it is easy to cut the same path over and over again, so cutting thicker material is done with multiple passes at a specified depth of cut (DOC).
  • With a trim router with both 1/8" and 1/4" collets, you can get and use bits in sizes ranging from 0.5mm to 1".
  • There are a variety of bits types for different purposes. Some have round ends, some have the twist in a different way that moves the material in a different way (to prevent tare out), so have burrs for cutting certain materials, some have geometries optimized for plastics, some are tapered/chamfered…
  • The steppers on the LowRider are not very strong. You can easily stop the router movement with your hand. In other words, the amount of pressure the CNC machine can apply to the wood is much less than you could do if you were freehanding the cutting with the router.

Michael Laws of Teaching Tech is mentioned in here somewhere…

To both Dan SupraGuy and [Robert Bunney robertbu, also others above my post who provided various pieces…
ha! I thank you so much for this information… this is extremely valuable to me.

I give you a more precise scenario, so that I may gather a last batch of added info, then I swim…

Since I posted, I did find the page on this site where Ryan covers bits and machining… but I had to snoop to many dead ends before i found it
Suggestion: (…this site needs a logically-ordered-trigger panel, so one can find things quickly… an alphabetical category tree(alone) is not nearly as good although it should also be present[and I think I did see that one]…)

As you see, I am trying to educate myself upfront before I jump in…
I know I am on the diving board, and it is a matter of time before I take the leap. (ouch! I can see the commission fizz bubbles igniting in the sales person.)

I have looked at a massive amount of available CNC machines, affordable and not… Michael Laws of Treaching Tech is where I got wind of the Lowrider.

One thing that did concern me is the rigidity of the ‘tube system’ on skater wheels track with potential slippage. From the above answers and some videos I feel confident that this will not be an issue. My stuff, although small and basically tight, is not instrument high engineering precision level.

I am severely restricted by space(mobile setup) and I need a unit that can be stored away when not in use and have size flexibility. I am not so much hindered by speed, I can do this as slow as it gets, it just needs to be successful. …and some of my rare pieces are longer than most available affordable CNC setups can accommodate.

After gaining perspective thru this self-education, I am now sure the Lowrider is the tool that best fits my scenario. It appears to offer an adequate level of precision and size flexibility hardly any other offer.
I can setup a bulk of the meal size Lowrider, and a second set of arms for a larger version I only substitute for the rare large jobs.

CoreXY is also what I see as a preferred solution, though in a CNC scenario the head is much heavier.

For instance, the MillRight Power Route would be the ideal machine for me except for its weight, its size and inflexibility for my scenario… Though if I was in a production context where output quantity is an issue, I would not hesitate. …yet if I can find something for much less money that will satisfy the job, you bet, I will go for the more affordable solution.

To put things in perspective, I could be considered a small wood toy maker. All that I do is mechanical… moving parts, axles, gears, pulleys, frame parts, etc… I will take some art/design capability if it comes in the bundle, but not necessary.
I just need clean work, minimum fine-tune sanding.

I plan to use a small router 1.25hp [cordless and corded] Kobalt and hopefully a Dremel tool or like. I am aware cordless is not the best idea, but I have seen a few viable examples. I can run off a DC power supply or an inverter and the battery bank or a generator as source.

The Dremel would be to accomplish finer work if unable to find small enough bits on a 1/4 collet.
I can build a bracket to accommodate the 2 motors on a quick change system.

Software and driving hardware:
Though I am not familiar with G-code or what various codes are used with CNC, I am a retired programmer analyst, thus not afraid of code or languages.

Still, I would not want to have to tweak code manually constantly.

I have seen examples on the net where they plunge the a 1/4 setup bit full length into a 1 in. thick piece of wood and run it a-muck at full speed, void of brakes!?!?

My questions on that:

  • will the hardware and the code usable on the Lowrider be smooth, gentle enough and flexible so as to not cause some areas to be butchered!? …if not assassinate the various bits?

  • to clarify: is the software interface complete enough and does it have a panel where all parameters can be adjusted per the particular piece/run, not just one lone adjustment for the whole piece?
    …without being a nightmare of constant tweaking…

  • is there functionality to save/reload setups rather than to always have to enter the parameters anew?

I have been told why not use a 3D printer approach…

…even with a top notch air system, I am in a too closed confined setting, I would start smelling of burning electrical conduit and end up with burning electrical conduit lung disease.

Wood dust is much less toxic, easier to control and so much more of a natural pleasant fragrance rather than an odor!

t.y. again, all.

The vast majority of the time with my Makita router, I’m using 1/8" endmills. These exert less force back to the router, therefore the machine frame. I still have the 1/4" collet, of course, and there are some bits that I use that for.

This will be a part of getting things set up and “dialled in”. Some mistakes are probable, but once you get the hang of your materials, you can set feed rates and speeds so that you will have a minimum of problems. A trim router (5-6hp) is probably going to give you better results than a 1.25hp cordless, pretty much regardless of material.

Much of the software interface is up to you. What you choose to do the drawing in will determine how much work the CAM processor has to do. There are nearly limitless options. Personally, I mostly use FreeCAD to draw and dimension the work, then I use Estlcam to generate Gcode. Estlcam saves almost all of the parameters related to feeds for various different endmills and tools, though I will have to re-define the paths for the tool every new drawing. I can save the project file for small tweaking if I’m going to repeat a cut. WEstlcam also has a machine control program, which I do not use. Fusion360 has the facility to both draw and generate the code for the machine, but I don’t think that it has anything for machine control.

To actually run the code on the machine, I used to put it on an SD card, and put the SD card into the LCD, but I’m using different electronics now, and can transfer the gcode via wifi to the machine, and let it run.

Like I said, Estlcam saves most of the parameters for the tool itself, potential depth per pass, cutting diameter, cutting speeds. Once I got that set up to my liking, starting new projects is quite easy.

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@Dan SupraGuy… thank you.

RELIEF! guys! I have decided to not continue to be the bugging bug on his way to 1.1 million questions, indeed backing off.

I know that it is not easy to guess how shallow and in depth one’s sharing of information/advice should be especially when everyone’s time is more and more at a premium. We are reaching a level in humanity’s progress where time is packed with the maximum of everything, thus what follows is not a complaint but a statement of fact.

I am starting to reach a higher level of feeling that I am imposing on other people’s time. The more I get answers the more questions are exposed that I need answers to. …yes, at some point that effect flattens out and reaches a successful goal where the decisions are made. But in this case, this is snowballing fast to more than just surface information, a great amount of questions.

Though I am slowly getting more and more information, much of what I ask remains foggy or not answered at all. …and I know this is due to an issue of conveyance to a great extent. It is easier and faster for one who is seasoned in a subject to exchange information with someone at near the same level, as much of the idiosyncrasies and the jargon used are already understood on both sides.

In my case that fails, though a fairly technically advanced person I am a complete noob when it concerns CNC.
Who wants a 5 year old asking less than first grade questions to a rocket scientist!?

…as I am going thru this preCNCwannabe operator stage, I do all I can to snoop in every corner to find the answers without needing to impose on anyone. …and I have had decent success at that… it has allowed me to resolve many questions on my own.

Well, says the big rooster, ‘why don’t you just jump in and get your feet wet?’ …to which I promptly answer: ‘big rooster! …that first lake I nearly thru myself in was one of hydrochloric acid!’

So, NEW PLAN. — I am backing off, regrouping.
I am going to look at 10 times the material on the NET that pertains to affordable ‘wood and soft materials CNCing’ including as many reports from users of the Lowrider. (and perhaps the Primo)

I wish the V1engineering site had a (precooked)base model kit list with individual prices(and total), free of encumbrances of options and what not. …a list that essentially says get this bare model’s components, here is your total cost, you are done!
…as well as another parallel clear list of the same machine with advanced components.

I will have to produce that list with the help of the like as Michael Laws. (think: if I am correct he added self leveling functionality to his build).
I will then present it to V1engineering for verification and confirmation that it is compatible, accurate and 100% complete, no surprises… open the box(es), build, test… go to work!

Perhaps someone will slam that list on my proboscis and go: ‘Here boy! your snoopin’ failed you!’

Of course the option where I end up changing my mind on this unit while at work on the above, makes all of it a moot point. …except I will be one who now can answer questions.

I hear ya. The problem with that is that for a DIY kit, the answer comes down to “it depends…”

The V1 store hardware, printed and flat parts really do cover the majority. Add in a router and a control board and you could be ready to go, just add table. The variety pack of bits in the V1 store is the icing on the cake, as that’s a good sample pack for consumables. Bits are consumables. You’ll buy many; some, you will like. Some you will wish you’d thought about it a bit longer. (See what I did there?)

For reference, my list:

V1 LR2 hardware pack
V1 printed parts.
V1 (secondhand) SKR Pro 1.2 board + TFT35
V1 shop 1/8" collet for Makita router
V1 router bits pack, + 5 extra 1/8" single flute (Because I tried them, and I like them.)
Makita RT0701C router (Home Despot, because they had the open box one on sale)
1" mild steel DOM tube. I can get this from my work, and it’s super cheap. Even the “guy walks in off the street” price is a bare fraction of what I see people here finding steel for. (I think we’d sell a 20’ length of 1" .065" wall for under $20 CAD to anyone who would come pick it up.)

Still shopping for table lumber because I’m not spending $12 on a stud grade 2X4. I might end up with a steel frame table because it’s cheaper. O.o

The table is the biggest variable. There’s everything from a secondhand ping-pong table to some mighty fancy cabinetry underneath some of these LowRiders. It wouldn’t be too difficult to spend more on a nice butcher-block worktable surface to put the LR2 on than the rest of the machine combined.

Or… Put a 49X97" sheet of 3/4" MDF on a couple of sawhorses, and it might cost you $50. $100 if you had to buy the sawhorses.

The website estimate of a $500 budget for a CNC is pretty accurate. My experience though, is that you’ll spend what you budget. Make reasonable choices when it comes to things like a table, endstop switches (For that auto-levelling/squaring thing) and extra hardware, and it’s quite budget friendly.

I promise you, the water’s fine!

@ Dan SupraGuy) — I appreciate your staying in the battle.
LOL @the last statement in your reply.

I will have my final list redacted soon and place the order.

Your reply will save me a lot of time, and between your info and the Teaching Tech, I will be able to get the nominal visualization I seek.
…your reply has put a great dent in that direction already.
Your list is the jumping board.
Thank you so much!

I know this is yet another long post, please bear with me… I promise, this is the last one. I have added a 2nd section below(clearly ‘demarked’) …brings up issues about the main ingredient behind all 3D modeling/CNCing.

I understand that if you are not a programmer some of what is discussed at the OpenSCAD link I provided, may hit you like a foreign language, but do not sweat it, whatever you gain from it is worth the visit. The multiple replies at that link do culminate to a layman’s understanding and it ends.
A lot of reading… so if you are not so inclined, don’t waste your time, as it is necessary to read it all to extrapolate the layman’s understanding.

your “…it depends…”

  • I am fully aware of that, but the short list you provided answers my suggestion, nicely circumventing the ‘…it depends…’.

I am a calculated(ing?) person, obviously. While I vacillated between replies, I leaned back towards a 3D printer solution. But before redirecting myself I browsed back my list of reasons-I-opted-for-one-thing-or-the-other. …I quickly saw that I must remain on the CNC approach. …if anything for one main reason…

…when I make parts I often have to do retakes and readjust, as in, drilling anew, carve, reduce, etc… and that requires, knives, chisels, drill, routers, sander, … and plastics are just not my preferred choice to carve, sand into. Wood is my medium of choice as of now.

Surely, once a design is debugged, this is moot… but the majority of my time is on the R&D side, not the production(which for me is practically non-existent since most if not all I do is 1-off).

Thus I have to have CNC power no matter what… and I want to also satisfy the other reasons I have previously brought up.

As for the tubing, I have to find a local source… 20ft length is way past the less than 8ft shipping restrictions and I can’t see that it would not be made untrue by the handling.

Firmware and capabilities:
I want to have the power to load the firmware electronically rather than deal with a million SD cards or memSticks, if it can be avoided… and also hopefully have a way to control via computer and CELL…(I may be dreamin’!)

So, I have to look into the Raspberry PI add-on and what that entails.
I know from Teaching Tech the Raspberry is compatible with the SKR boards.

The TFT looks good… I am generally not fond of tiny screens except as back up or when it makes sense, like the simple operation of the equipment… and big screen interfaces when pounding on parameters and saving presets and repeat jobs.

…I also see the OctoPrint hyped… but have no idea what it offers if even necessary. CNCjs is also another option, I saw… I wonder if the ‘js’ means it is a javascript setup!? I am betting Python.

I want to have all of these items in hand when I build/test/start using the equipment… Several SD cards if needed, mem sticks, and what ever else comes in the game.

SECTION 2 : the CAD/CAM/CAE, … requirement.
[ Solidworks, Aspire, Vectric, OpenSCAD, Sketchup, freeCAD, … engineers packages, all covered below.]

…and I am still trying to find the magic so-called free CAD/CAM software.
freeCAD is theee ONLY standalone one I found to be free. ALL the other so-called free ones are either trials or too cumbersome and weak to deal with or CRIMINAL THIEVERY CLOUD VERSIONS.

There are a few that are standalone and can be purchased outright rather than forever yearly fees… but, that is another ton of time to waste to find out they suck. (Aspire, Vectric, …)

[ After one has customized it as needed ], the best I have found is Sketchup. It is no longer free but is the most affordable at roughly $50.00 a month.
NOTHING out there beats its ergonomics, its speed and actual intuitive user interface(GUI). I still have the 2016 free standalone version, and it may actually be at a good enough level to have the needed functionality.
All I may need is a converter/translator for the output file.

OpenSCAD is one that is openSource and free and can do it all, the only issue is that it is nearly entirely strictly programming based …and that is about as slow an approach as can be, until one has created a great amount of presets that can be copy/pasted… a weak GUI, hardly anything visual on the building side, only on the preview side AND WEEEEAK/klunky!
(small taste: OpenSCAD Tutorial/Chapter 1 - Wikibooks, open books for an open world
h ttps://

…and it uses a proprietary language. see this discussion:
(OpenSCAD - OpenSCAD language - replace it with Python3
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…the OpenSCAD existing interface uses such klunky sequences, that-alone makes it trash to me… until they eventually develop the Sketchup-like GUI or allow full customization of keystrokes, offering the best of both worlds… then it will be a(thee) tremendous free tool.

I would have to write code to translate all the individual commands and scenarios into a visual point-and-click interface… Wo! see you in a quarter century!
Sketchup already does that and is updated constantly… no-way to compete, unless I join the team at Trimble.(not gonna happen… too old)

…again, Sketchup has nailed all of that so completely, nothing can touch it. It’s at the top of the heap forever. Even the more advanced packages like Solidworks will have to eventually line up or die like dead tongues… notice, I am not mentioning any and myriad of the really advanced systems that engineers and designers use… the list is massive.

Note: many will say Sketchup is not accurate and all sorts of non-sense to bash it… they just have not figured it out yet.
They are just running their silly ignorant tongues.
Once one grabs the understanding Sketchup embodies, one can design precise complex ‘multiblock’(infinite) creations in one evening, the first evening if having watched the proper tutorials. …and don’t go swallowing the lie that Sketchup is not parametric. The new versions ARE… plugins now, and I am sure eventually intrinsic.

Watch this video, though architectural, a great example of the speed and power of Sketchup. …much harder stuff than simple mechanical parts.
I had a great need to go lie down, but happened to watch the first few minutes of it, and never peeled my eyes off-the-screen until the entire hour and 30 minutes went by… my eyes stinging and crying in pain.
Sketchup Stairs Design 2 + Vray 3.4 Render - YouTube
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freeCAD which looked promising at first is still a horrendous piece of mediocre garbage. The time one wastes on that stagnating completely non intuitive tool and utterly crappy work flow, is just silly, not recoverable!
The voluntary developers of freeCAD are the likes of the mediocre middle school level pupils I had to suffer, hindering the class to a crawl.

  • free is good, but not if it robs you of your time. It’s a trap!

…sad, isn’t it!? since it is the ONLY truly free standalone visual/GUI package at this time.

I just realized that you may have stated you use freeCAD… LOL!

Thank you for all your help,
…on the rebound.

FWIW, I’m a programmer by training.You’d think that OpenSCAD would appeal to me more, and maybe it would if I spent more time with it.

FreeCAD isn’t great by any stretch of the imagination. I’m trying to do more 3D modelling in it, but mostly, I use it for 2D drawings, for which it’s adequate.

I used to use Sketchup back in its early days, when it was really clunky, and I liked it, but new versions were always a steep “Forget everything that you knew and start over because it’s all different.” learning curve.

I actually like TinkerCAD quite a bit for 3D modelling. I find it’s use of basic primitives to be easy to grasp quickly, and with a few tricks you can get some very complicated things done. The downside is that it’s all cloud of course, and don’t put anything up there that you don’t want other people seeing or copying.

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LOOK! it’s a miracle! …a short reply!

…CLOUD! …why I did not even bother to investigate ThinkerCAD and Fusion360, and all the other thievery.

…I say if you can, boy… I say, if you can afford it, get away from freeCAD and jump to Sketchup. …pardon the FogHorn LegHorn meme. lol.
I like to see my entire model from all corners in 3D, within the 1/2 hour if not immediately and with no fuss.
I became proficient in Sketchup in 1 evening. It was my very first experience at pure modeling, besides the indy version of the Unity tool I use in my computer game dev.

I designed a complete mechanical toy with pulleys, gears, chains, belts, axles, compound joints(swivel), and chamfers, fillets, etc…
(gofigur, the spellcheck fails the word chamfer(on a CNC web site, LOL), luckily bevel and cant are available)
…and I had to customize the interface on the fly, because the delivered layout is generic.

As a programmer, if you only do 2D, do go spend some time with OpenSCAD… you will get into it, you will not regret it, if anything you’ll use it for some of your work. I provided some helpful key links below.

One major issue with freeCAD and Blender(as the worst 2 examples), is that they loop you thru an inorganic flow and make it hard to change to something good that has the organic flow. …and let us not forget the ingredients, intuitiveness and ergonomics.

if you do tackle OpenSCAD, let me know how successful(or not so successful) it turns out.

…roger and out.

here are a few links that help the process.
Note: some of the links clash with the format engine
One of 2 reasons I always provide the link text, strip the 2nd char/space. …the other reason is when all fails, one is sure to see and use the link text
…you’ll notice the format engine is not consistent, in the first link it shows the link text, skipping the whys and hows, my solution covers it all.

OpenSCAD cheat sheet
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OpenSCAD User Manual/The OpenSCAD User Interface
[OpenSCAD User Manual/The OpenSCAD User Interface - Wikibooks, open books for an open world]

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OpenSCAD beginners tutorials (google search)
[OpenSCAD tutorial - Google Search]

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@ Dan SupraGuy

CHECK THIS OUT! (…if you haven’t already…possibly holding out on me. heh ehehehe!)
I had stored this link in my database because I did not have time to take a look at it. I have now taken the time. …and see my post in the comments.

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I posted the below… I was trying to post a new topic, but it would not allow me.

As you will see… I am giving up.

First and foremost,

  • will V1engineering address the issues brought up!? so that the initial purchase includes all the mods.

Since I am unable to post properly, a forum mod should move this post as explained below.
I posted this under the Advice topic and YourBUILD topic.

As much as I was convinced I would build a Lowrider2, that is coming to an end.
To be treated as a child having to earn badges to be allowed in the mix is already enough for me to turn away. I am an advanced person in this world, I don’t need to prove myself or be held back.
This is not a high school juvenile site… off with the restrictions.
I am unable to post a proper topic.
This reply will probably not be conspicuous enough for hardly anyone to see it, since it is not a TOPIC. My intention was to start a proper topic.

Yet that is not my reason to walk away from a potential solution.

…and as usual, those who run forums are clueless as to the mediocrity of their layout.
The list of topics is but a hodgepodge of non-sense titles, in a massacred order that causes one to scan hundreds of lines to find anything.
Surely, a search tool can filter via key words, but still the default list should be presented in a default alphabetical order that offers an ABCD… trigger to pinpoint a section. The second key word in the tags should further automatically sort the result set in sub groups, etc…
If a topic is about bits, its first title word should be BIT,
NOT: “…as I was thinking of my ‘littul’ sister’s toy I am concocting, I was thinking of what sort of bits I would need to purchase!..”,
…so it automatically falls in its natural alphabetical subject of treatise.
There is more to it… not my job to provide a full analysis.
Get new programmers! or send the current ones to school.

The topic I intended to post:

Topic title: BUY or notBUY - Lowrider2 - preBUILD - beforeBUY

Here is what my research on the Lowrider has shown me.
It resulted in the following list that I compiled on the fly while watching the video below, which happened to answer all of my own questions and more. I have covered many more sources, this just happens to be one of the most useful.

LIST first, video below:

  • wobbly, tubes springy
  • 2.5D smalll detail quality issue
  • forgets to lift Z axis
  • Z axis plunges gradually catastrophically.-
  • PLA printed parts crack and fall apart
  • belts grip holder tension mechanism issues
  • PLA weakened by stepper motor heat, shield needed
  • extra clamping gantry - double story to improve stability and reduce wobble
  • Y axis added block to hold and tension belts
  • Z axis limits, limit switch enclosures
  • Y axis limits issues.
  • Y axis groove for wheels train - tracking failing due to dust - groove needed to keep true tracking
  • Y axis wheels below table
  • Dust chute, not needed - bringing performance down
    Note: pros and cons here, depending on scenario. I have my own idea that brings a complete solution to all the issues brought up on the dust collector in the video. …though the solution the video poster proposes is simple and may work for many if not most scenarios.
  • LED bit carving area lighting

PARAMETERS given in the video
25~30 mm/s, depth 3 to 4 mm, precision .5mm

see CAD FILE in description

[LowRider2 CNC - One Year Later (Overview and modifications) - YouTube]
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Duplicate with: BUY or notBUY - Lowerider2 - preBUILD - preBUY

have you not read it?
can you move it where it belongs?
am not a mod…

It is already in a new post. What are you asking me to do?

Thank you for answering…
well I am getting censored… that puts the last nail in my coffin.
I am used to tell it as it is, and not be under the scrutiny of arbitrary monitoring… this is too ‘cry-baby’ for me.
I am removing my account from this site.

I appreciate your attention.

:roll_eyes:. No, you’re not. Your POST is still up. You posted the same thing in three places and two are up. The place where it doesn’t belong (in the about category), I flagged. It doesn’t belong there.

o! concerning the new post… this is due to the confusing layout of this site and forum… I was able to post at some point but it was as I had drilled several layers of context… and I was tired of dealing with the lack of intuitiveness of the site. so I left, failing to explain and revise everything I had lost too much time on already.

My bad… they will probably delete all my effort… who cares anymore, not me.

You are not being censored. You made a mistake in not recognizing your initial new topic got created (as you apparently desired) and so you posted again. @jeffeb3 is pointing this out.

There is a (largely playful, in my experience) set of initial activities the forum software uses to reject spam and bots. We all worked through them. I’m sorry if that makes this forum not a good fit for you.

Also, be aware that V1 Engineering is a one-man operation, and the rest of us on the forums are users, customers, and are volunteering our time and energy. We do our best to be supportive and responsive when asked for assistance. One of the most common repeated comments is “build it stock, then modify once you understand how your particular machine behaves.”

Your initial posting appears to me to be a heavily modified version of the LowRider 2 with a much larger than normal spindle. You say you are giving up after a year. Why haven’t you come for assistance before now?

I really wish I understood what you are actually offended by. I can’t seem to connect any of your complaints with actual problems.

1 Like