I am just about ready to start selling this setup that I have been sitting on for a while.
I have chosen this stack as the one I hope to support for a while, and offer in the shop.
SKR Pro, TMC2209, TFT V3 E3
Board-Easy flash, just put on the pre-compiled bin file and restart twice. I think this board is unique in that the 6 drivers offers dual end stops and a spare driver, main use I suppose would still be 3D printing with it but a spare is nice to have. There is plenty of outputs for fun stuff.
2209 drivers- High output low heat, digipots, complicated but powerful.
The screen- Lots of features, probably too many, easy to flash, add the precompiled files and restart, done. Touch screen or old school. I chose this version for the knob and ability to have old and new just in case there are issues.
The biggest hurdles are going to be getting the TFT the way we want it and maintaining those changes.
I can add these to the shop as a BETA, if you do not have them already, let me know if you are interested. If not we can just do some testing to get the setting right.
Hi - I am running SKR 1.4 Turbo, TFT24 V1.1, TMC 2209 v1.2. Single, using your serial wiring harness. If that configuration would be useful for your test, count me in.
Greg
I have skr v1.3, TFT35, 2209 drivers, and am running dual endstops. I have already started customizing the TFT35 to my liking. I have it all running smoothly off the TFT35 SD card slot. Lemme know if I can help.
I’m in the same boat as Ron. Have the SKR v1.3, TFT35, but with 2208 drivers running dual endstops. I just added support for the V1 touchplate to the TFT config using the Home Z button. Really excited to see where this can go from here.
I’m running skr pro v1.1 with TFT3.5 and a mixture of TMC2130 and 5160. Maybe worth noting that I’m on my second board, the first one popped. it was either ESD or the processor got too hot (was 30C ambient). Biqu has a new V1.2 board out that adds a transient voltage suppressor on the 3.3V line. So I soldered one in. Also glued a heatsink onto the processor with thermal epoxy. So far it’s working. I have the old board and bought a replacement processor ($12) so will try and swap it out to have a spare. If it works, then I’ll test your code on my MPCNC with a set of TMC2209s here.
I’m running a Lowrider 2 with a BTT SKR v1.3 with dual endstops, TFT 35 V2.0 with custom firmware, and TMC5160s. Have also used TMC2209s- these work very well, so I suspect the 5160s are overkill. I put a 12v relay on the fan output to switch the router on and off (M106/M107). That adds a nice level of security. It’s really nice to be able to play around with these configurations.
Moving my burly from Rambo dual to SKR Pro dual (with 5160’s and TFT35 v2.0), got basic motor movement working via the TFT. It uses E1 and E2 for the slave X and Y instead of the E0/E1 for Rambo.
Next is to get repetier working and home it with the dual endstops. I monkey’d with the serial settings in attempting to get the TFT to work (and it does work OK), so I may have broken the USB serial:
-#define SERIAL_PORT 1
+#define SERIAL_PORT -1
/**
* Select a secondary serial port on the board to use for communication with the host.
* :[-1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]
*/
-#define SERIAL_PORT_2 -1
+#define SERIAL_PORT_2 1
Is reverting those likely to get both the TFT and USB serial (with repetier) working? I’ll experiment, but if anybody knows…
The pro uses a different chip and doesn’t have a zero. The tft is on 1 and the usb is on - 1. I have no idea what the consequences of using one or the other for SERIAL_PORT_1 or SERIAL_PORT_2. I would guess nothing is really changing though.
I reverted to Ryan’s serial settings, and it’s working, just not with my Mac (though a serial device appears in /dev when I plug it in). Windows (after installing drivers) was OK.
Endstops. I plugged in the endstops to match the motors (X, Y, E1, E2) and the endstop LEDs do the right thing (the E1 endstop blinks the E1 LED (nice feature)), but M119 shows something else, seems E1 (X2) shouldn’t go to E1 for example. I presume I need M119 to show the proper state before I let autohoming loose.
I got wifely approval to build a CNC router table the other day, so I pulled the trigger on the hardware kit and the flats for the lowrider as I have some cabinets that I need to make. You probably packaged and shipped my box to Minnesota already Ryan. This is my first post here.
Anyway, I also ordered the SKR Pro, TMC2209 and the TFT35 based on the fact that it supports 6 stepper, and I plan to also do some large panel prints for some car parts. I need the surface area to run some ASA prints. I’ll be testing this firmware out as the first flash on my board. What I was wondering was if you had the connectivity diagrams and any jumper settings for how this particular board would connect up for the MPCNC with the dual end stops.
I flashed your board and screen so once you install the drivers you should be ready.
I am not sure what I can get down tonight or tomorrow but I am assuming your box has a few days past that, so I will see what I can do. It is all available on biqu’s github but I can do a simple walk through as well.
I didn’t get a board and screen from you, as I had already ordered them from Amazon, (Mine is order 12753), but I’m super pumped to get the Lowriderv2 built. Cabinets and then some wall-hung cat purrniture that has been in high demand ever since I built the first couple sets by hand and sent them out for testing. My next project will be the MPCNC itself, as soon as this one pays for itself.
I’m no stranger to electronics/wiring, I just have not worked on a multi-axis motor controller before, so my confidence level is a bit low. Either way, I am super pumped about this. I’ve had ideas stuck in my head for many years, but was never in a financial position to get a 3D printer until I hit the “ask forgiveness, not permission” phase. And once I started printing things that made my wife’s life easier, she said yes to the CNC.
