Spindle/router options

So, I’ve received the electronics part of the MPCNC, and I’m working on printing the 3D printed parts, and I’ve been looking at spindle options. One thing I’m interested in is finding an option that allows finer control, and more importantly a lower minimum speed, than is offered by the DW660 and similar options since I have some designs in the works that will require a lot of drilling.

Has any one used any dedicated mill spindles on an MPCNC? What’s the maximum weight that can be supported by the core and Y axis?

Since there are flexible build criteria for an MPCNC, there is not a defined max limit. It will depend on your build. Stepper motors lose torque the faster they spin. The more mass you have at the core, the more torque is required for accelerating that mass. So typically, as you add mass at the core, you have to slow down your rapid movements and often your cutting movements as well. There is also the issue of flex of the tubing with the added weight. The larger you build the machine, the more impact your router/weight will have on the tubing.

If you are looking for variable speed, the Makita RT0701C 1-1/4 HP Compact Router is popular. It can be dialed down to around 10K rpm, and the internal speed control works to maintain the rpm setting under changing load conditions. Cheaper trim routers with speed controls, as well as external speed controls, will not work to maintain a specific rpm. For the Makita router, it is highly likely you will want a 1/8" collet, which must be purchased separately. The V1 store carries it, as well a few other places.

Another choice is the Carbide 3D router. It is essentially a Makita RT0701C clone, and it comes with both 1/8" and 1/4" collets. A third choice is the Dewalt DWP611 Trim Router. The Dewalt is difficult to find for some reason, and its speed control does not dial down as far as the Makita, but people like the built-in led lights.

As for spindles, there is not much in the weight/power that works best with the MPCNC. A 1 1/4 hp motor is roughly equivalent a 1.0 kw spindle. If search out spindles, you will find they typically jump from 600 watts, which people report are underpowered with respect to a router, to 1.5 kw, which are notably heavier than the routers. The most extreme example of a spindle I seen on the form is Steve M. Potters build, which uses a 2.2 kw, water cooled spindle. To make it work, he kept his build relatively small, used carbon fiber ABS plastic for the 3D printed parts, and has substantially upgraded control board with the steppers running at 40V.

Rereading your question, if you need sub 10k rpm settings for your drilling, you can make a 1.5kw spindle work, but you should consider the design of your machine if making this choice. Personally, for the limited amount of time I use my machine to make holes, I bore them rather than drill them. Here is a video that explains the difference as well as explores drilling holes with a router. Note the router used in the video is the one from Carbide 3D.

2 Likes

That’s pretty dang thorough. Only think to add, i think, is that the 2.2kw and 1.5kw spindles need a vfd, right? Or is that just some of them?

I don’t have a spindle, but from what I understand, you are right that a VFD is required. Most spindles I see on Amazon or AliExpress are sold as a package with a “matched” VFD. The other potential issue is that 2.2kw spindles require 220V MAINS power…common a lot of places but usually only in “special” circuits in the US.

2 Likes

Thanks for taking the time to reply in such depth. I’m familiar with both boring and drilling holes, since I’m a machinist already, and furthermore I actually saw that video yesterday, which is what got me wondering in the first place. What I’m not familiar with is building my own machine. I have some designs for products in mind that would require lots of drilled holes, and fairly small ones too, in the 1/8" to 1/16" range, which pretty much rules out boring the holes.

After I posted my question, I did come across this spindle that Ryan links to in the Primo parts list, which could be an option, but it’s already possibly double the weight of the DeWalt based on the Amazon question section and, as you pointed out, likely underpowered at 600w. Given the cost of it, I’m not sure I want to spend the money and have a machine only good at one thing, or have a machine that I have to switch spindles on, since if I’m doing that I could strip down a $27 Harbor Freight drill and have a 1080w spindle that’s also lighter.

I’m mainly looking to see if anyone here has any experience with a situation like mine that could provide some advice, although the more I look into it the more it’s looking like Harbor Freight will have the answer…

I actually had 220 installed at my house, so that isn’t an issue.

1 Like

As a machinist, you are likely way ahead of most of this on this forum with respect to the actual cutting/drilling. If I was in your shoes, I’d pick a router and then do as you suggest and build a drill solution that has the same outside diameter/configuration as the router. That way, you can just loosen the mount, slide one tool out and the other tool in. I did this with my laser, and am very happy with how little effort it is switching between laser and router.

1 Like

Hi, I have mine setup for 1.5 or 2.2 kw(large board flattening) I have double deck and a sleeve bolted between the two which fits 2.2kw then a sleeve the 1.5kw fits in like a large spacer. My vfd is controlled entirely by the software utilising a PWM to 10v converter, still messing with the electrics and fitting disco lights :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye::rofl::rofl:




1 Like

They’re are 110v vfds. I’ve got one on a 2.2 kw spindle. Doesn’t play nice with the gfi, though. And now, I think that’s everything, lol.

This is probably the solution I’m gonna go with. I figure once I strip down a drill, I can pretty easily make a 3D printed adapter for the times when I have a lot of holes that can’t be bored. Thanks for all the replies, everyone!

@robertbu How do you like the laser? I’ve been interested in getting/building one, but when I looked into it the consensus seems to be that to get a laser that can cut thin pieces of wood (up to about 1/4") required something like a 40w CO2 laser diode, which were a couple grand. What did you go with?

I purchased the NEJE A40640, and I very happy with it. If you search the forum for “@robertbu gifts,” you can see what I made to give out at Christmas. Most of the gifts were cut from 5.2mm plywood, and I’m sure I can cut thicker (at slower speeds and/or more passes). There are many people on this forum purchasing this laser module. David has recently upgraded and has some of his cutting can be found here, and he is beginning to dial in engraving, and you can see some of his work in this post.

I’ve never owned another laser module or machine, so I don’t have anything to compare it to, but based on videos, I expect it is still significantly weaker than a CO2 laser, but it gets the job done for a hobbyist.

1 Like

Those are quite cool things you’ve made out of it; my favorite is the scouts wings. Those are very similar to what I’d be making, so if it does that well for you I think I’ll be happy. Thanks for letting me know about it!