Success! It actually MOVED! But a couple nagging questions

Mostly Printed CNC - MPCNC Troubleshooting
#1

So actually got “My Precious” to move in all three directions and the correct directions! This is too much fun. Made my wife come down to see but I just don’t she was as excited. Serial wiring looks a mess and if the cats around he wants to help me un-tangle. Anyway so questions.

My system all from V1

  • Primo Kit and motors
  • Switch option but I also ordered separately the series wiring
  • BTT SKR Pro 1.2
  • BTT TFT35 E3 V3
  • The Drivers that came TMC2209
  • The (V1) computer power adapter spliced into the two power supplies

Okay once I flashed the TFT and the controller it really took a turn for the positive. Looks great now.

Recent steps:

  • I got my belts on which was so fun. I had to sand the belt tension parts but no big deal.
  • Tip: Use an angled dental type prob/pick an pre=place push the belt through and lift up.
  • Cut my first one about an inch too short, learned longer is better :slight_smile:
  • Actually wired it up with the series wire and will save the dual-stop cable for later.

QUESTIONS:

  1. My TFT works in the classic mode pretty well but when I try to establish home she takes off toward the 0,0 corner. I stop it by reseting before any collision. How do I set home?
  2. On the touch screen mode which looks so great, it says “no printer found” and does nothing. Icons look awesome but no movement.
  3. Do I need to keep the Micro-SD on the SKR Pro once I flash?
  4. I like this V1 forum and the help. How does this differ from the FaceBook V1 site?
  5. Is there a external program I can use to control the CNC with a notebook? Do I just plug into he USB slot?

Thanks to all that helped get me this far!

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1 Like
#2
  1. Untill you have endstops on just use the screen to move to where you want home and send G92 X0 Y0 X0
  2. On the screen go into settings then connection then baud and set it to 250000
  3. Nope
  4. I think there are more people here that don’t use Facebook.
  5. You can use repetier or cnc.js
#3

Can only answer a couple of your questions:

but when I try to establish home she takes off toward the 0,0 corner. I stop it by reseting before any collision. How do I set home?

Whenever you see “Home,” it means homing the machine using electronic end stops. If by Home you want to establish a position as the (0,0,0) origin with respect to a work piece, then how you do it will depend on how you are controlling your machine. This origin point is set first when you power on the machine. If you are using Marlin mode and have access to the V1 Custom menu, then you want to select “Reset All Coordinates” from the menu. The g-code to reset these coordinates is:

G92 X0 Y0 Z0

This code can be put into text file with the .gcode extension and run.

Is there a external program I can use to control the CNC with a notebook?

There are several. Ryan recommends Repetier-Host and provides instructions here.

#4

I don’t have facebook and have not looked there :grinning::grinning::grinning::grinning: sorry I’m sure I’m the minority or only one here with that

CncJs will also work with marlin and a laptop

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#5

Keep up the good work.
When the end stops are installed the machine will stop when it hits them.

#6

Thanks Mike I tried the 250000 and it still does not find the printer. I was sidetracked in switching to the dual stop cable and mounting the switches. Made some progress but having some other issues.
It’s kind of whack-a-mole. But learning each day.

#7

I do have Facebook but really use for only special groups. Personally I’d rather use this Forum but was not sure if there is a preference? Seems being part of V1 I’d be more comfortable here.
Thanks…

1 Like
#8

Thanks. I decided to go ahead and activated the end stop version since I already bought the cables and switches form V1. I actually successfully flashed the control over and felt happy. I retired form Molex the connector company and tried to use some DuPont connectors which are already in the ribbon cable. Bought some DuPont copies and got what I paid for. Crappy quality so I’m just going to crimp some QD tab and receptacle for the limit switches.

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#9

I’m sure that they are just as good there but I don’t have first hand knowledge :innocent:

#10

“real” crimpers and connectors can really increase the budget. I have used the official stuff at work (where we balance engineer’s time and can justify larger budgets) and it amazes me how well they work. I selfishly want that quality at home, for less than $100.

I have some dupont, jst, and molex knock offs. They are all fiddly to work with. But the duponts are maybe the trickiest.