The Carver's MP3DP

Aha! This means you have the wrong firmware. The MPCNC doesn’t have temperature sensors, so Ryan configured the firmware to always say 170C, which is enough to run the extruder motor. You’ll need to reflash it with the mp3dp software.

The best way to test endstops is with the M119 command. If you connect pronterface (baud rate 250000), you can type it in the command line in the bottom right. It will say OPEN for not hit and TRIGGERED if it thinks it’s triggered. I’m guessing since your firmware isn’t right, that’s your problem.

The front of your bed is Y=0. So positive moves the hot end towards the back, so the bed moves to the front. Make sense? So you’re backwards. Another way to think about it is the endstop is a zero, which is the bed moving all the way to the back. Sounds like your Z is also flipped. X moves to the right with positive.

To switch them, you can flip one of the plugs 180 degrees, which swaps wire 1 with 4 and 2 with 3. If that sounds like a painful night of crimping, you can also find the invert flags in the firmware. Before you load filament, or change the firmware you might also check the extruder direction since it thinks it’s 170C. If you need to invert that, you might as well know now.

You’re getting close now. But don’t rush these final steps. The software is as complicated if not more than the hardware. It needs just as much attention :).

Also the top is the set point, the bottom is the measurement. When you get the right firmware there will also be one for the bed. FR is feed rate. I don’t know why it gets such probe real estate. I’ve never adjusted the speed on the printer itself like that…

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Thank you. Some homework to do. I’ll post results / questions.

Okay. So that didn’t go so well I don’t think. I followed the instructions presented here:

In combination with the thermistor setting to “11” from the V1 info. Had to install a RAMBO driver to the pc laptop to get it to enable the port in Arduino, uploaded files, restarted MP3DP and I have a blank LCD screen (illuminated but blank).

Did I just fry everything?

Here’s the configuration.h in a text file…

Marlin.txt (125 KB)

Nope. You just didn’t enable the right LCD. You need to enable the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER in Configuration.h . When you do that, if it complains about an error missing the u8glib.h file, you can install u8glib in the library manager (don’t download the code manually).

Ryan’s Github has two configurations for the MP3DP, one for RAMPS and MK8, the other for MRambo and Titan Aero. Both of them are based off of the bugfix-2.0.x version of Marlin. I see you have a 1.1.x version, which is not the stable Marlin release either. I would probably start with one of these:

I would post my Configuration.h, but I have a bunch of other features enabled. I am always trying different stuff out on this printer. :slight_smile:

Okay, I’ll grab both and see if I can figure out which bits are for the MRambo and which are for the MK8 as that’s my configuration. Thanks for the guidance - I really appreciate it.

I would guess the difference between mk8 and the Titan are just the steps per mm for the extruder and the temperature sensor.

Okay - so far so good. The screen is back, the temp reads 24 deg.

Now the X Axis is only moving to the left on positive move inputs regardless of the X endstop switch.

Coming back to the info screen “Endstops X” is displayed at the bottom.

Tried the Y Axis - same. Only moves in the negative direction with positive inputs regardless of endstop switch. Return to the info screen now shows Endstops X Y on the bottom line.

Tried the Z Axis - Moves up and down but reverse of positive and negative inputs. Interestingly, it won’t move beyond 0.00 - is this a function of the software control?

Info line on LCD upon returning sill only says Endstops X Y.

I’m guessing as a start my endstops need to be changed in the Config? And can I flip the steppers in there too or is is as simple as flipping all of the plugs on the board?

It seemed like the only things I had to switch in the MRambo file from GitHub was the extruder specific things. I did see the spot where the max ends stops were enabled.disabled and they were enebaled inthe origfinal file so I left them. I hope that’s right but of not let me know - I think I understand how to comment them out and (is it called) reflash the board. Here’s the Confg file in case anyone wants to peek at key things you know I may have missed or not.

Marlin_KD.txt (147 KB)

It is. The zero will reset when you home (after you get the movement and endstops working).

If your endstops aren’t connected, they will seem triggered. Check your wiring on X and Y. Flipping the plugs on the steppers will change the direction, or you can change them in firmware. I think it’s something like X_INVERT_DIR or something like that. If you can just rotate the plugs, that’s easy too.

How’s it going? These are the config parameters for going stepper direction:

// @section machine

// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false

// @section extruder

// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false
#define INVERT_E3_DIR false
#define INVERT_E4_DIR false
#define INVERT_E5_DIR false

Very kind of you to check in. We were out building lego Weasley cars with our daughters ; )

I pulled the board and checked for continuity on the backside between the end stop pins on the X and Y and sure enough - no beep. I pulled the terminals out of the Molex connector, heat shrunk on of each pair and plugged them right onto the pins. Beeps were heard.

While I was at it I flipped all the stepper plugs on the board and we’re now moving in all directions! On to the next steps - which will be a combination of bed leveling and end stop adjustment. Soldiering on!

Working away on this - endstops and bed leveling in tandem. I have something very odd going on though. With the nozzle way down by/on the print bed the right side lead screw seems to flex inwards. If I sight along the side of the machine (plywood parts) the screw is visibly torqued inwards. Any positive move and the right stepper grinds and shudders while the left one just does it’s thing. Pulling the guide rods out from their holes on the stepper mounts eases some of the strain but when pulled, the bottoms of them both shift inwards a good 1/8".

If I run the X Axis up to to mid point of the Z travel it runs smooth as silk with the guide rods seated squarely in place.

Any thoughts? Even a 0.1mm move and the right stepper shudders while the left moves smooth as can be and gets ahead of the one on the right.[attachment file=73539]
[attachment file=73540]
[attachment file=73541]

I did a bit more digging and measured the distance from the guide rod to the lead screw above and below the bearing/stepper mount bit.

[attachment file=73542]
[attachment file=73543]

So naturally I measured the distance between the rod and the leadscrew at the very top - 15.4mm and right down at the bottom by the coupler - 13.1mm

And…to not delay this bit any longer here…

https://youtu.be/QM1bwk9aXqk

Yeah buddy! Hell of a project so far.

 

As for your issue check this dimension on both rods.

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Success! Thanks yet again. Bed leveled, end stops set and working. Question - if I were to run the Axis to random spots and power down, when I powered back up would I just select “Auto Home” and it’d run to the end stops and set itself to 0,0,0 for me?

So the obvious question is…what’s next? Is it time for Benchy? Care to point me in the right direction so I can start that journey?

I would print some flat squares or a 20mm cube, start slow. Benchy is fine, but if you can’t get your print to stick, and confirm you can print for more than 5 layers, it’s a waste of time. Benchy is usually not the first thing I recommend to print, it’s what you should print after you get everything working normally.

 

Look for a Cali cat (calibration cat), it prints pretty fast and is a simple test for a printer.

Wow. That looks great. There’s no doubt it’s the Carver’s MP3DP.

Yes. That should be the case.

You need a print surface. If you don’t have something on the aluminum, put a single layer of blue tape. I can’t tell if you have pei on there or something.

Did you add some grease to your leadscrews?

My next step would be calibrating esteps/mm and temps. Each printer is a little different.

+1 for the calicat (or calidog :D).

This guide is a little old, but it was the guide I used when I started. Don’t take is as gospel, but it’s a good overview:

https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter’s_Calibration_Guide

Do you have a slicer you like and all of that?

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Ugh…so you thought you were ready to print stuff did ya?

Hahaha…oh boy…

This isn’t your first 3D printer, is it? You got the printed parts somehow…