In case anyone was interested just how badly you can mistreat this design and still get useful results, I present to you, my super Janky MPCNC.
We’ll start with the fact that the 3D printer I used couldn’t print the XYZ part in once piece. So it was printed in two pieces and super glued together.
Then, I didn’t have the proper materials to build a decent table, so I used pallet wood and scrap ply for the installation.
This, as you might imagine, presented some flatness issues. Thus, for critical applications, I build a leveling table. Another hunk of scrap ply with a grid of holes routed into it. Each hole has a recess for a 1/4-20 nut.
That’s supported by 1/2 inch bolts with big old knobs routed out of MDF. My 3D printing plate is the glass door off an IKEA bookshelf, covered in painter’s tape. I’ve been able to get it within 2 thousandths of level across its 14 inch length using a dial indicator that I printed a magnetic mount for.
It’s been used to make the template for routing holes in a cornhole board (just a circle, not that interesting), some goodies to hand out to fans (I’m also an author).
And some fancy stuff for a clock my brother is making.
Not bad for a cobbled together pile of broken rules!