Third core failure print Lowrider 3

I’ve just had my third core failure print, all at about 85%, core is lifting off build plate on front left corner and pushing into print nozzle. Is there any member in New Zealand that could print a core for me? I will supply a reel of PLA+ filament and pay for your time. I am in Whanganui, New Zealand.
Paul Bell

So it may just be draft. I put a cheap dollar store shower curtain over my printer. Clear so you can see through it, but it helps. My printer is in the garage. Abs is the only one I usually have pull up though. Are you using cooling?

@Tongariro sorry to hear. Did you try adding a good sized Brim? I also use a light coating of liquid bed adhesive (i.e. Stick Stick) when I have issues but there are a lot of home brew options online that may be easier for you to find due to your location.

There were a good number of Core print failures when the Primo first came out so Ryan create a simplified test part that people could print to make sure their printer could handle the size/print duration without waisting a lot of filament.

@vicious1 did you make one of those for the LR3 Core as well? I haven’t seen a lot of LR3 print failures so I imagine not.

Best of luck!

I had two failures, and a layer shift on my last one with ~8 layers left - I’m going to fix and use that one.

Part of my issue is that I don’t use my Ender 3 for large prints often, so I wasn’t setup correctly.

Even then, I think the ender can have issues as it gets higher - not sure if bowden/wiring is getting caught or if it is the fact that my old version just has a clip-on sheet bed. The bed is flexible, which may allow warping without detachment - but does affect print height and causing print head collisions.

A Glass bed might preferable.

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Usually the issue is people do not print that high up, so like Kris said this get caught or bind and you would never normally know.

Warping is rare, for that I would assume the wrong bed temp or just not clean enough. PLA+ should not really have warping issues.

I am not a fan of PLA+ I think I would just go to PETG if you don’t want to use Regular PLA.

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If you do a glass bed, make sure you take off the magnetic mat that is adhered to the bed. It can add insulation between the glass and bed.

Thank you all for your advice, my Ender 3 has not let me down before and I’ve done a great many prints.

@RockinRiley I don’t have any problem with draught, I think an issue could be that the area where it lifted is a part of the bed that has never been used, so is very smooth, the central part of the bed is well used so has more grip. I’m going to give it another go today and I’ll try a glass bed as suggested with a couple of test prints before the core.

@vicious1 I use PLA and PLA+, the latter I’ve had no issues, different brands are sometimes the issue, I printed my MPCNC Primo with PLA. Bowden and wiring was not a problem, on the third attempt I could see the corner starting to leave the bed which started to make the print nozzle click across the print. this then caused a shift in the print, game over.

@Bigchepin I’m going to try a brim, I would normally use one when there is not a lot of surface area grip.

Kris, I agree, the bed is flexible, even more so at that left front corner above the bed level adjusting screws, so will try the glass bed that has been sitting in the box from new.

Let me know if you need me to print one!

I’m in Christchurch, but I’ve been burning through filament lately (The LR3 and the Brutus…) so I would be happy to help in exchange for filament!

I printed mine at the standard ender 3 setting, I usually put a layer of 'Helena Professional - Super Hold Hairspray (For All Hair Styles)" hairspray on my bed - You should be able to get the hairspray at any of our two supermarkets!

@jjwharris Thank you for the offer, I’m going to have another attempt at it today with a new glass bed, either with a brim or a raft, I did try an attempt at printing with a brim yesterday but that didn’t stick to the bed so your suggestion of the hair spray might be a goer. The raft certainly stuck, but might be difficult to remove from the print.

Core finally printed, changed to a new glass bed, tried a small print and wouldn’t stick to bed, washed bed with washing up liquid and print stuck like shit to a blanket. Using a brim on a trial run didn’t work so decided to print with a raft, that was the trick, lots of surface area and the raft easily peeled off the core print.
Thank you all for your suggestions, great help and vast knowledge on your site Ryan @vicious1

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Glad to see another Ender pull thru! On my glass bed I’ve had great luck with cheap hair spray, Suave max hold - 4 bucks at target

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Do you have to clean after each print, does it leave much residue?

Short: No. Yes.

Long:
Have Ender 3 Max glass bed. Rightly, or wrongly, I never bother to clean my bed. When Bed glue starts peeling I scrape and vac, then lay down more glue. Done. My prints have been sticking fine, but bottom layer would probably look better if I adopted better bed cleaning habits.

  • Added adjustable tensioners to X and Y. Helped to tune and reduce ringing.
  • Added Dual gear extruder, extrusion rate is more reliable.
  • Tweaked brim settings best I could to enable easy/clean removal.
  • Tweaked first layer flow, speed, temp, thickness to get good adhesion for first layer. While trying not to overly extrude and end up with build up that results in elephant’s foot.
  • Using swivel head deburing tool for cleanup. Wish I’d known about this tool years earlier.
  • Using Bed adhesion https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079984GV5
  • Have a unopened bed leveling Z probe. Adjustable bed springs on my End have been reliable just using paper to gauge thickness.

I never clean mine…

It can end up being quite a thick layer, but the residue left over seems to help adhesion even more.

I am a big supporter of Glue sticks, what ever brands are the cheapest or available as a bulk pack. Since using as a solution to bed adhesion I have never looked back.

When the glue gets a bit thick and uneven, warm the bed and use a wet rag to wipe and flatten it to all the edges. Leaves a nice thin even sticky surface to print on. Give it a vigorous wiping and it will flatten out.

As for filament, I have found the PLA+ actually easier to work with than the PETG which I have had issues with it sticking around the nozzle half way through a print. Never had that issue with PLA+, and my last 2 MPCNC’s I printed with PLA+ which have given good service.

I also had issues with a 400x400mm magnetic bed lifting at the edges on large prints. Tried to print an R2D2 dome in 4 pieces and it would lift the bed every time. Change to a glass bed and glue stick and won the fight. All 4 pieces printed perfectly. Almost had to resort to a chisel to get the first few of the glass.

Just my 10c worth.

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The problem is PLA+ is not as rigid as PLA and not as heat tolerant as PETG, so if you are going to not use PLA, PETG is the better option.

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My solution for long and high prints, as a prevention, is to use extra strong hairspray, the cheapest and strongest one…it will need help to lift the part off the bed once’s finished and has never failed to me. Hope it helps.

+1 on the glass bed and glue sticks.

I shmear some glue stick on after the bed starts to heat.

I DO scrape the residual glue off with a razor scraper after the bed has cooled.

Hardly ever have any adhesion issues. I have only printed with PLA and PLA+.

I concur with aaron

I probably clean my bed about every 10 -15 prints, or whenever the bottom layer of my prints start to look fugly.

unclip, hot water rinse, repeat, alcohol wipe, good as new!