Does anybody have any thoughts on using PLA+ over regular PLA? I know the reasoning of using PLA over something like ABS or PETG due to it being more rigid. However Pla+ is supposed to have the same properties of PlA but better hence the “+”. It is supposed to be stronger, better layer adhesion and able to handle higher temps better. So I would like to know what others think before I start printing.
I used ESun pla+ on my LR it seems to print nicer and be a bit less brittle.
It’s weird though I have 2 spools that are the same age one black that’s crap and one red that is great using the exact same settings.
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I had a bad spool of Esun black pla+ a while back, only one I have had though. Only use PLA+ these days.
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There is no standard for what makes PLA+. It is a generic basket meaning PLA plus some additional materials added by the manufacturer, so in order to make a decision, you will need to select a specific PLA+ that also publishes data on their specific version.
The consensus on the forum is that stiffness, not strength, is the important factor in the plastic parts for the MPCNC. On datasheets, stiffness is often referred to as “tensile modulus,” or “Young’s modulus.”
The last time this question came across the forum, I looked up the datasheet for a couple of versions of PLA+ (there is no data for most manufacturers). According to the numbers for those specific versions, PLA+ was stronger, but less stiff than those same manufacturer’s version of PLA.
If you want to look to an alternate/better material for an MPCNC, carbon fiber ABS and carbon fiber PETG test out as being stiffer than PLA, and they both handle heat better than PLA. You will pay significantly more for those materials, and unless you plan on having your machine in a hot environment, I don’t think you will get much benefit for the added cost. The one place I’ve seen where carbon fiber ABS made sense was for a portable MPCNC that was to be transported frequently in a car. A closed car plus some sunshine can easily heat the interior of a car beyond the glass transition temperature of PLA.
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If what you say is true and it really is not as stiff I will stick with the PLA. I had just figured if it was PLA that was just improved upon then it would have the same stiffness but I guess I should not assume anything. My machine will be kept in my garage that while it has insulation in the walls has an open ceiling and tends to get hot in the summer. However I do live in upstate NY so it isn’t like I’m in Arizona in the summer and installing insulation in the ceiling should help put up a barrier between the very hot attic space and the garage as well as keep my heat in during the winter. I had originally printed the burly in petg but for the life of me can not get the x and y cross bars to fully square up so I’m going to bite the bullet and print the primo and use stainless tubing instead of conduit and hope for the best.
You need to take it on a case-by-case basis. A couple of years ago when I last looked at this issue, PLA+ was less stiff for the companies that had datasheets. I just did a quick search for datasheets for PLA and PLA+, and the results I get now are different. The first two companies that popped up were Polymaker and eSun. Looking just at stiffness, here are the numbers for these two companies:
For Polymaker (average Young's Modulus) PLA 1953 PLA+ 1977 PLA Max 1934 PLA Lite 2801 PLA CF 2995 For eSun (Flexural Modulus) PLA 1915 PLA+ 1973
So, if I was only buying based on stiffness, and only looking at products from these two companies, then the PolyLite PLA would stand out, being notably stiffer at only $2 more a roll than their PLA ($20 vs $22 per Kg on Amazon).
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So slightly stiffer with other benefits of strength, better layer adhesion and better heat resistance. I will look into that company’s filament to see what they have available. Thank you.
Speaking of Arizona, my neighbor went out to his shed last summer and all the primo trucks had sagged so badly the belts were hanging low…
I have a bit of recent experience with dealing with PLA and PLA+. I always had issues with a layer shift on an electronics housing for my cr10 and had to make a new one. I printed same one on two printers because I expected one of them to mess up (both finished good), one was PLA and other was PLA+. I definitely noticed that the PLA+ seemed to be much more rigid than regular PLA.
As for ease of printing I have found any setting for PLA worked for PLA+, just a little higher temp for PLA+.
ASA is a good very rigid material that would make a good MPCNC/LR frame if you can print it. When LR3 is out I will be using either ASA+CF or PC+CF for it rather than PLA+
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Short: Cheers for the info!
print in new calibrated PLA { Ender 3 something, 0.6 nozzle, 0.32mm layer, 35% cubic infill }
while(isAlive and isHobby)
if hot weather and part sag then print in PETG
if part fail|fracture then print in PLA+
while(isAlive and isForBusiness)
// todo: plan something mixed with CF
Long:
Folks, cheers for this thread and responses. After far too much deliberation, have started printing with Overture PLA on my Ender 3 Max, am in PNW, will risk melting sag for now, and reprint in PETG if/when climate change eventually inflicts regular 100+ weather on us. Would have bought via Ryan/V1-Team’s amzn affiliate links if I could find them.
Looked at misc CNC Kitchen and similar, currently believe regular Overture PLA {Bending_modulus : ~3283; Bending_strength_MPa : ~85.1 } is stiff enough for my LowRider. Reason PLA matte is less stiff, and unable to find bending modulus specs for Overture PLA+, but looks to be less stiff. PETG without CF is even less stiff.
Watching lots of CNC Kitchen and similar, makes me believe, probably more important than which material I use, is minimizing N dimensional ways I can screw up by ensuring correct layer height, wall thickness (just as, or more important than infill), extrusion % and temp, retraction, and speed optimized for accurate thorough bonding of extruded material.
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Aaron I actually ended up going with Polymakers PLA+ for my build. According to their specs the stiffness was actually slightly more than their regular PLA and it’s strength was a lot more than standard PLA with a higher heat resistance and layer adhesion. I believe the modules were around 2800 so not that far off what you are using. If I end up having issues I will find a higher modules PLA and reprint a few parts. I just finished my machine and have not yet done any cuts in wood yet.
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I’ve had mine printed with PLA+ and actually been able to really use it, and it’s been fairly rigid. The only flex I’ve noticed is when I push down on x axis, the joints where z tubes sit flexed a bit.
I was going to do PCCF for LR3 but my cnc mentor said to use my cnc to do it out of metal :x
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