Going to start this post just to get some pics out there for anyone thinking about a tilting table. Still have a few things to finish up on it then I will do a really in depth video about the table and all the other tweaks I’ve made to the Lowrider…
So I have a table built from 2 1/2" metal studs skinned with 1/4" masonite hardboard. This mounts to a tilting stand with support legs. Need to add a locking mechanism to the rolling portion and leveling feet to the legs then the table is complete.
This let’s me a have a table capable of 4x8 sheet capacity but when stored only takes up 2’ of floor space.
Nice! Looking forward to the video of the build. Was thinking of anchoring a tilting table to the wall but might look into this. Was the choice of metal studs purely for weight or some other reason?
I have a track on the top side that the wheels ride in that keeps it from slipping down and then there’s the wheels on the back. I have a little prop that holds the 611 plate up from resting on the side.
Saw another post on here from someone saying they regretted using metal studs (and were going to rebuild their table out of wood) b/c it wasn’t as rigid as they thought it would be. Interested to see how yours holds up to use.
Greg - I have seen your YT videos of the LowRider… If you don’t mind me asking… how much did you invest on the table top alone and what are the dimensions? Does it have any twist… that is what I was thinking could be the issue with the steel studs.
Also how did you secure the steel studs to one another? In the photos I am not seeing any screws.
@Barry used metal studs and has since replaced them with wood (a paulk style using unistrut for the rails). Not sure what the different design choices there were. I’m sure the devil is in the details.
Weird, my post from lunch didn’t actually post. My metal stud table flexed all over the place, but looks like you are using more than I did. I can jump on my new table. That is a really nifty design though! Could be really handy for folks without a ton of space.
Ohh, you have the fancy metal stud punch! I used screws, which probably didn’t help with the rigidity much.
@Jeff, yea, my hardboard top warped with the humidity.
Barry how is your metal table and Greg’s table different? I watched both your videos and seen pictures…I noticed on your you had a strip of wood on the top rollers but to me I didn’t see much difference.
He’s using a lot more center pieces. I didn’t use that many, so that’s going to help a lot. I’m more interested in seeing how long his hardboard skins last. That’s what really warped the most on my table. They started buckling in and out between the studs.
I built a Paulk workbench for use as a regular workbench and router table, and can vouch that it’s extremely sturdy out of 1/2" plywood. If I were building for a cnc table, I’d probably opt to build a single 4’x8’ box rather than the default plans for 2 2’x8’ boxes bolted together. The 2 box configuration is just designed for breakdown and transport, and getting them exactly level with each other for a seamless and lasting CNC surface could be an unnecessary challenge if you wouldn’t ever need to break it down.
The reason I went this way was because of the weight issue. That and I can’t get 5 foot by 9 foot plywood sheets anywhere. I didn’t want seams in the torsion boxes. Realignment shouldn’t be an issue. I got everything lined up and clamped together, then drilled holes between the boxes and attached T-nuts and bolts. It’s not perfect, but it’s a lot better than my last table. Once I put on a spoil board and face it, that will take any minor misalignment out. I’m also sorta space limited(stop laughing). I barely got the old table into the shop, had to angle it just right. There’s no way this table would fit through the door in one piece, not that I could lift it in one piece anyway. Hopefully this summer I can build an extension to the shop, then the cncs will have their own area.
