Thanks for the input… Everyone has there preferences, that’s good. I do believe the Prusa printers are very good qualtity and print good right after assembling. I got a really good deal, and it was cheaper than the Mini. From what I saw on reviews the print quality is great. What I like about the BIQU:
BTT motherboard
Silent+good drivers
2 fans on the extruder
Easy upgrade with BL-touch, there’s already a plugg for this on the machine
Stick on metal bed
Touch screen, with a lot of options
I already have a Raspberry Pi with V1Pi on it, so I can use Octroprint.
That printer looks great! big powersupply.
That’s probably missing atm, but I think maybe a lot off things are related to the Ender 3 v2 so maybe it applies to the BIQU too?
Good way to learn!
First question(s) about filament, shall I start with PLA? Is there a difference in quality? For example if I look at Amazon, I see a lot off different prices. And start with 1 color 1KG or a sample pack?
I’m relatively new (beginner) to 3d printing, but I think PLA is the most forgiving and good for learning on (at least it was for me). I do think there is a difference in quality or, at least it seems to me, that settings for one brand of PLA may not work for the same for another brand. I’ve had good success with hatchbox. As for slicer, I use cura and haven’t had problems. With that said, I’m a beginner at 3d printing and though there may be better filament and slicers, this worked for me and I’m printing some pretty good parts with it. The most important thing to do is to calibrate your print jobs. I found I have to scale my prints up just a small amount (using cura) to get the exact dimensions I need. When I import from F360, I have to scale by 2550.6. The units get imported into cura incorrectly (file must not contain units) and so I have to scale it up by 2540 to get the right size. But with that, when I print a calibration cube, I found the dimensions came out a little small and I calculated 2550.6 to be the correct scale number and it’s been working for me with my robot parts. These numbers will vary from filament types (pla vs. pteg, etc.) and probably (though to a lesser extent) different filament brands of the same type (hatchbox vs. someone else) and possibly (though to an even lesser extent) different filaments within a particular manufacturer and possibly (though to an even lesser lesser extent) different batches of the same filament. So far, for me, I’ve only had to refine my calibration number once (switched from hatchbox to a different brand/composition of filament).
I bought a cheap digital micrometer from one of the big box stores. It really helps when trying to calibrate.
Hatchbox and overture have been my favorites so far. Sunlu has been ok, but I’m really only basing that on the one multi color roll I got. Amazon basics has been my least favorite.
I’ve burned through a couple rolls of each brand, so it’s a relatively small sample size. YMMV
I would not recommend the Amazon basics multi pack of 200g rolls. They are difficult to deal with since their are no spools and they are not vacuum sealed. Doesn’t look like it’s available now anyway.
Where is the love for the MP3DP? I started one but need to build a bigger mpcnc to cut the parts. I haven’t been on here forever. Is anybody stoll using the MP3DP?
I have 3 printers now and the mp3dp ended up being the last extra in my house. AFAIK, it works perfectly, but it has sat still for a while now.
It is a great kit. A joy to build. Not the right printer for everyone though. It is a great second printer, or first printer if you are close to someone who has gone through the printer process once before.
unfortunately I can’t get those here in The Netherlands, but Sunlu I can get. I watched a few video’s and everyone is using different brands… guess there’s a lot off good ones. So no Amazon basics…
I’d also throw a vote in for an Ender 3. I have the first gen and it is a workhorse. As far as filaments, I almost exclusively print with Inland PLA from Micro Center, but I did buy a few spools from Printed Solid (3 or more ship free). Their own Jessie PLA is made in the USA and costs about the same as Inland. It’s actually what 95% off my MPCNC is made of (ran out of black near the end).
The instructions are very bare. Take a look at them first, to see if you’re comfortable with not having the detail. But it goes together quick. There is about double the electronics in a printer vs an mpcnc, so more wire crimping and routing. Definitely don’t sell the end until you have another working printer. But the material cost is pretty low.
I have really owned any other 3D printers that you have probably heard of. My guess is that it stays up evenly against something like the ender 3. But it takes more thought and energy. At the end, it comes with much more pride.
That looks pretty nice. What was the layer height?
Take a look at 3D benchy. http://www.3dbenchy.com/ Aside from stress tests, it’s a pretty good way to see what the printer is capable of. It’s the “crown” for 3D printing.
I didn’t know the layer height actually, because the G-code was on the MicroSD card which came with the printer. So I loaded it and just pressed ‘print.’
I just had a look at the G-code and the layer height is 0.1mm.
Yes I’ve see that boat model, I haven’t done any testing yet.
Just connected my Pi and OctiPi works, I think that will be workflow.
For calibrating my 3D printer I found this video:
I also have a question:
Looking at the G-code I see the hotend end temperature is 180 degrees.
Does that mean 180 is best for my printer, printing PLA?
Be sure to check out the integration between most slicers and OctoPrint. You put in the api information and can one click print from the slicer. (No need to save/upload the intermediate gcode)
I wouldn’t say 180 is the “best” just because their sample file had it. It’s going to depend on the filament. But since the print was successful it’s a good starting point.
Nozzle size, print speed, layer height, retraction, linear advance, and temperature are all interrelated when it comes to getting the best print results. It’s pretty common for machines to be “off” by a few degrees when managing temperatures. Most print optimization routines suggest running a temperature tower with each new filament (including different colors of the same type) to determine the best temp on your specific machine.
Yes that will be nice… the slicer I’m using is Cura.
I also ordered the TP-Link smart power plug, it was only €12,- on Black Friday (instead of €25,-)… good deal.
Nice to control it via WiFi direct and also monitor the Printer by my Pi.
Yes I will try that… but I thought to do it once for all 4 colors from the same brand Sunlu… so I should do it for a 4 spindles?
