All the other holes on my zenxy2 parts seem perfectly sized, with clearance holes sliding in easy with little slop, and threaded holes grabbing the screws well. However I it seems the hole for the magnet height adjust screw was accidentally sized as a clearance, where it needs to be threaded. Perhaps some printers will still bite enough for the job, but in my case the screw does not hold position at all… magnet can easily be moved and the screw follows it.
I plan on just heating the screw to make some threads for mine, but wanted to mention in case it was a mistake.
OK, I had troubles with a bunch of other holes as well, took my calipers to my parts and bolts, and get 4.98mm holes and 4.82mm bolts. So I modified the STL’s that need threads, using the method I normally do (inscribed polygons). This usually gives perfect threads without tapping in ABS, but sometimes needs tapping for PLA/PETG (anything more than M3 anyways). In case I’m not the only one, I posted the files here for others to use.
I was conservative and did not hexify both sides of holes that did not need it. This should make assembly easier. I took care to thread the top halfs on those deep counterbored bolts, which allows you to back the bolt out all the way easily (had to drill a hole in my stock center part to get a bolt out of it).
I wondered why this was never an issue with the MPCNC, then realized looking at it that it doesn’t have any tapped holes (all backed with nuts). I know some recent upgrades to my printer have resulted in better looking prints… looks like that upgrade also gave very accurate dimensions to my crusty old A8 (5mm holes used to be 4.9ish).
Checked that and I have no hole compensation stuff enabled. At the end of the day when my printer is printing a 5mm hole at 4.98mm, making it print that at 4.7mm does not seem like the way to go. In the same light, we would tell folks who have small Cnc holes to tweak gcode to compensate… we don’t do that often.
4.98 is awesome but that is not the norm, I can only make one choice for hole size when designing parts so I have to design for the most common. I am glad you got it working and thank you for editing some parts! If I go too small to fit yours, the parts printed on a standard printer will be too tight and typically crack on layer lines.
For anyone reading this in the future, if you do not want to change or reprint parts, loctite or super glue tend to make great thread stuffers in prints. Apply it to the threads, let it dry, and then you should be able to use them accordingly.
Yep no worries I know my printer is probably out of the norm in a lot of ways. I am using cura to slice… 4.10 I think? I thought about super glue or epoxy, but it was a lot of holes and I am just too anal lol. Loctite on plastic though… that was added to my 10 commandments of diy when I was a kid using it on a tamiya hotshot chassis… melted the holes and made them even larger before a wise tinker told me never to use it on plastic stuff.
Hi, I have the same problem. So the screws are lose in the holes. @vicious1 Is it possible to provide the 25/18mm step files? It’s pain to edit the STL file to add the hexagon.
I know with Cura, the horizontal expansion affects dimensions of the whole part, and horizontal hole expansion only affects holes that are placed vertically. So there’s no easy way out with Cura. I haven’t used slicer recently, so not sure if it has a solution for this.
I tried the compesation but as mentioned before I only could corroct x or y in my test print.
It would be great if you could search and provide the files since the truck1B only opens as surface model in my SolidWorks so I can’t edit this part at all