3D carving on Lowrider

Has anybody done any 3D carvings with the Lowrider? It seems people use it for more sheet good/flat pack stuff. But I wanted to do more larger 3d stuff with it. Is it going to be big enough or am I going to be disappointed?

It really isn’t any difference in terms of resolution or anything, the LowRider should 3D carve just fine.

Lol it’s a good feeling when you get the answer that you were looking/hoping for.

I was messing my LowRider this morning, it is surprisingly rigid. For some reason I was having doubts about it lately but I went down and it was refreshing to see how sturdy it actually is. I think you will be happy with it.

That’s all good news. I love my MPCNC. As amazing as it is, I just can’t get it to the size I need. So the lowrider seems perfect.

My only counterpoint is that 3D carving something big will take forever. But I don’t see any reason why it won’t work.

Just make sure your table is FLAT!

I’ve already set aside a 4 hour time slot to find straight lumber at home depot. Lol

Heffe, your enthusiasm is something to marvel at =P

Where did you guys mount your LCD?

I also have like 4 pairs of rollerblades, can I just use those wheels?

Yea, as long as all the wheels are worn the same, otherwise your gantry might tilt one way or another.
Here’s a still building shot of my lcd.
Google Photos
I may have linked to it in my build log, but can’t remember.

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My torsion box ended up being very flat, much flatter than I could have found any board. You need a table saw and a flat surface for glue ups. But if you’re thinking decorative carving, it might not need to be that flat, actually. If you are carving a functional part, then flat is key. It’s all relative. I really should measure the difference in z around my LR.

I don’t want to sound like an idiot. But what exactly is a torsion box?

And what do you mean glue ups?

I built one for my MPCNC too. The idea is that the stringers in the middle help combat the top and bottom from warping. Everything locks in together and makes a very rigid table top for the machine to sit on.

That seems like an insane amount of work…

It’s more work, but not as much as the linked version. Here’s some details:

You’re not the first to ask about it, so I figured I’d put it somewhere that wasn’t buried inside a post about carving.

As I mentioned before, if you are doing decorative carving, I think you’ll be fine with a less flat surface, but it’s all relative. If you’re carving 1/2" into material, and you’re drawing a fish, then ±3mm isn’t going to make much difference. I really need to measure the Z to get some quantization about it, but I know Barry has mentioned ±10mm for his table/sheets, and I am much flatter than that.

Moved lower to cover Ryan’s post instead of mine.


Maybe I’ll just try adding a bunch of blank lines. Nope, has to have something in it. I chose 12 lines with a ‘.’. In a few months, when that formatting gets fixed, these posts are going to be confusing to someone.

If you are really fancy, the electronics and screen will fit in between the side panels. That was the original plan, but I need to access mine too often so I just hung it on the outside. If you use my LCD box I made a hanger clip for it.

Roller blade wheels are too big usually, these are roller blade wheel but the smaller “hockey” ones.

As far as flat goes, you should just throw a fly cutter on your router and level your spoil board

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My wheels are 70mm. What would be the short comings of using them?

Not able to go as low, not a big deal if you use a thicker spoilboard I guess.

I planned on a 3/4 msg spoilboard with dog holes. So I guess I’m in the clear. I’m so excited for this project. I’m driving my wife nuts lol. Her exact words were. “I’ll pay for whatever you need under 2 conditions. I stop hearing about it until it’s done and you cut me decorative panels for Lucy’s (our daughter) Windows.”

@Ryan, are your wheels not traveling on the spoil board? I don’t know why I didn’t think of that.