CA glued, and pocket screws. The jig seemed to have slipped. I bought a Kreg adjustable clamp, but I think my old ones were more effective in keeping the jig in place. I also think my 1/2" birch ply is 12mm. Some of the pocket screws came out the top 
I decided to put a plywood skin both top and bottom, and sit the MDF base of the CNC on top if that. The plywood base will make later conversion to an assembly table easier.
Right now the table is a little rickety in the X dimension, since there are only the rails that support the box across the legs that way.
The leftover wood from getting the sheets cut is ideal to set up a 2’ deep drawer under the bed, so that I can put all the crap that I’ve been leaving on top of the CNC underneath it and not covered in chips. The drawer will end up 2’ deep, and about 39" wide when it’s all done. More than enough room for clamps, tape measure, calipers, pliers, collet wrench, hold down cutting saw, screwdrivers, sanding block and shims. The drawer supports will add stability to the X dimension as well.
I’ll even be able to get my shop vac under the table, which I can’t now. Bonus!
This table is 36" tall. The struts that hold the legs in the Y (long) direction are glued, so they don’t come apart, but in the X direction, only screws, otherwise this is never going to get out the door to the room, ever. Gravity holds the torsion box in place, the legs come up enough to ensure it can’t slide to the sides.
Next project is to rewire for the Duet control board. I’ll miss the LCD, but the wifi web control is really nice.
All these new tables…I need to finish my new zen build so I can play too!
Build looks good, extra sturdy.
Nice and flat, too, my Z variation over the spoilboard is down to pretty decent levels. Not perfect, but I want to give the MDF some.time to settle before surfacing. I bought some 1/2" foam which I can surface for some Z critical jobs.
Moving the machine like this was getting to be necessary before embarked on the next step for my ZenXY table build, as it needed to be more solid, with less deflection in the spoilboard 8n order to get the effect I want.
Meanwhile, I made a new mitre gauge for my tablesaw
Now that I have a mitre gauge, I can get the drawer done, though I don’t have the face made. I don’t want to use MDF, but I don’t want to use red oak either, so it’ll wait until I can get a nice pine 1X6.
In the meantime, this should serve to keep the majority of the dust off.
