So I have this little, cheap, plc laying around. I think I’m going to use it to handle my 660 rpm pid as well as turning the router, vacuum, and maybe some work lights on/off… it has 4 10A 240v relays 8 universal inputs 4 analog inputs and 2 analog outputs, along with ethernet coms… anybody have some good ideas of what to use the rest of the i/o for?
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Possible additional relay controls:
- Vacuum table/hold down
- Chip blower/air blast
How cheap is a cheap PLC? IIRC, those used windows only tools to program and were surprisingly overpriced. Not judging, just curious if you’ve found a better deal than I have.
Well that one was free from my last job… they were getting them from Eaton for $75… brand new design that is cheaper than anything they made before
They are called the easy e4 programmable relay… but it is really just a plc with relay outputs… they have versions with built in screens and expansions… not the cheapest controller on the market, but its the cheapest plc I have seen. And the software is like $20 for a lifetime license.
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Great ideas! Thanks
so for my Creality V2.2 board, it runs the Mega 2560 marlin version, what is the closest firmware that Ryan has set up. would it be the 2560 + ramps version? @jeffeb3 you seem to be the resident firmware expert so i’m tagging you 
thanks in advance for the help.
IDK anything about creality. But the RAMPS does have a mega 2560. I don’t think it will matter as much as the drivers. What kind of drivers does it have?
A4988 drivers. i’m ok with having to make modifications to the firmware, just want to start with whatever is closest.
I would start with the rambo then.
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Thanks for that Jeff, I’m digging into it now… I’m also sourcing my tubes and I’m wondering if there would be any appreciable difference between .065" wall SS and .06" wall SS. my gantry will be 34.25" by 34.5". (That is a 2’ by 2’ workable space with the dw660 attatched)
If not then I can get a killer deal, all my SS tubing for only $70!
I don’t think it will make much difference. But I try to avoid answering mechanical engineering questions. It isn’t my specialty.
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Yeah mech isn’t my strongest suit either, hopefully someone else can chime in… its a really good deal so I will probably go for it.
And so the adventure continues! I got my tubes today i will be getting the wood for my table tomorrow (at least most of it). And I got my hot air station fixed so I was able to get another stepper on that creality board. Still need to test it (don’t have a spare stepper laying around :/) but I’m hopeful that it will work! Next is building the table.
Keep me posted on the creality board. I might be doing the same thing as I have a spare one here too.
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I know others have use the v1.3 boards from an ender. But this is a v2.2 from a cr-10 it had 4 drivers but I added a 5th for duel endstops. I will let you know how it turns out 
So I know having the legs all exactly the same length will help with leveling. But how important is it to have them cut perfectly perpendicular? And does small variations in length of the other tubes (x & y & z tubes) matter?
It doesn’t… as you don’t have a “hard stop” for the tubes like you do on the legs.
They can be couple of inches bigger but not smaller… if that make sense.
it does, and that is what i was thinking but i wanted to make sure i wasnt missing somthing. what about the cuts on the legs is it super important that they by flat and perfectly 90’ or can that be smudged a little?
Sorry, my reply wasn’t very clear… It is good to have all cuts for the legs perpendicular as best as you can. What I was referring to is all the other tubes… For example… the Z tube, as long as the holes for the tool mount plates are at the same place on both tubes, whatever imperfection in the cut can up with the "Z Motor " printed part and will just stick up beyond the printed part… same with X and Y tubes…
Hope I explain a little better.
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