After seeing the recent post of someone who re-purposed the Z Axis printed parts to make a CamSlider, it occurred to me that the Z axis like this, looks a lot like the 3 Z Axis for a Delta printer like this.
Has anyone tried to use the MPCNC Z axis parts in this way yet? either with a stepper+Rod or stepper+belt?
It will be interesting who people do with this idea. If I get some spare time after I get my MPCNC fully working, I might try doing this myself. hmmm. call it MPd3DP (lowercase d for delta)
lol. all these acronyms are now getting longer and longer.
I’ve actually been thinking about trying to design a delta based on the MPCNC design…but was thinking about basing it off the rollers rather than the Z. Using conduit for the vertical rails and for the base/top.
A combination of the “Lisa Simpson” http://reprap.org/wiki/LISA_Simpson only with Ryan’s belt driven roller design instead of the lead screws and conduit instead of PVC seems like it could be a very low cost way to build a Delta.
If I ever finish my backlog of existing projects I really want to give it a try some day
A) to keep Z aligned (since not using linear bearings) should use 2 pipes.
B) Based on 2 pipes the Z access already has align/seperators and the 608 Bearings mounted correctly.
C) Already has the nutlock for the Z shaft.
D) with the exceptions of the electronics/motors, trying to get everything from hardward store (bunnings for me - Australia).
E) can use the MPCNC to cut the top/bottom and bed mount plate from something like MDF.
F) the attachment for the delta legs (to the middle part) can go into the Z bearing spot where the bolt goes to secure it.
G) the known geometry of the Z axis, makes position the location and angle easy (120 degrees)
H) Predefined places to mount the motor to.
I guess using TR8’s later would be faster, but for cheap/proto typing hardware/skateboard shop/store first.
While not to use the single X/Y access rails
A) to reduce weight you dont put the motor on it.
B) this led to there is no pre-defined place to mount the belt and motor to it that is correctly aligned.
C) the X/Y mount has little rotational wiggle room to align it internally.
Anyway. just some questions. Who will be there first? for the MPd3DP
Just stumbled across a delta design kind of like I was envisioning…except they’re using open builds wheels with multiple pieces of conduit together to create a groove for them to run in instead of the MPCNC style roller I was picturing:
And here’s the build of it I found that led me to it:
Incidentally I found it by following the link on the vicious homepage to the johnbiehler.com blog about building a MPCNC who mentioned his friend who had built a MPCNC and convinced him to try one…the conduit delta is being built by that friend.
The bundle of 4 EMT pieces in each corner solves the problem I had been thinking about in regards to rigidity…but means the simpler MPCNC style roller woudln’t work without more modifications…
Wonder why he doesn’t do what everybody else does and use carbon fiber arrow shafts for his arms? Steel rods are going to weigh too much. The problem you’d run into with a mpcnc style roller is it could twist on the tube.
Okay, spent some time doing other things, but back to this now. Here are the parts of I have printed, the angle metal and the 25mm tubes I have set up for my MPD3DP (Mostly Printed Delta 3 D Printer).
I will be posting the modified files/etc one I have it completly up and running, but here are some pictures of the parts I have modded (from the original MPCNC -F) and how they fit together.
The angle metal seperating the parts was originally 60cm long (as purchaesd from Bunnings) but for this so far, I have cut them in half to make it more manageable.
The idea is nice but you should beef up those connectors, I would print them at least 3 or 4 times thicker, otherwise the structure will be very weak and wobbly. Sturdyness is pretty important on delta printers if you want good results
Agreed. Those are just the connectors. the Z motor mounts have to go on, as well as re-purpose the tool mount bracket to be placed along/between the pipes to keep them aligned.etc.
Plus the angle metal can be connected diagonally for more bracing.
My drive is to make this as much printed as possible, and source parts locally as much as possible, rather than going to buy smooth rods/etc from the web. I know I will have to get motors/RAMPS/electronics from online, but as much as possible I am trying to source locally.
Lets just see how Version 1 turns out using as much MPCNC stock (or minorly modified) parts as possible.
okay - finished printing of 6 Z tool mounts(size F - original design, not modded) and 12 F pipe nut traps of my design. These traps (for F pipes and M4 nuts) do not need gluing of the nuts, instead a sliding lid(dove tail form factor) holds the nuts down, and since the lid is friction fit it wont fall out (and also the lit has space for the 25mm M4 to partial screw into it, once it is secured, it will not fall out).
If you look in the lower right of the picture, you can see a but trap with a M4 Nylock nut in it, with the dovetail lid half slide out.
the “test” effector (middle part) of the Delta. with printed bearing U-Joints.
This will not be the final effector. Just a test print and I plan to Quick and Dirty mount my bed level endstop to it, before I mod a “blank” version of this to fit the Hot end I want to use.
currently printing 6 more U-joints for the 3 Z axis mounts.
okay. got the effector mounted and in place. I am using a couple of M3 bolts through the tool mounts to keep all of the Z carriages sinking to the bottom.
At the bottom of the Delta you can see my other Delta the 101hero I backed on kickstarter ages ago.
i have a problem in that the lead screws I got for this I though was 1m, but are actually 1.2m same as my pipes so this has show a flaw in my design, so I have to revise my corner mounts (top and bottom) so they have the hole back.
No biggy I got the SCAD file I used and can easy re-mod it, just a tad annoying and have to take the time to reprint it (and I am now all out of pink so it will be in a different color).
But all this is the pleasure of printing and prototyping with a 3D printer - am I right?
The U bearings have 6mm holes for the doweling, and I am using 6mm dowel (pine) currently. I was planning on using 6mm aluminium rod, but still working how to drill them. where as the Wood dowel I just used 5G x 15mm timber screws from both sides.
Makes it easy to replace, has some flex, and also easy to resize.
check out my video post on facebook showing it moving by hand.
