It depends on how quickly you need it to stop. Many folks on here wire in an EStop button that immediately cuts power. Yes, that does reset everything but it’s better than burning down the garage. The first time I actually ran with the tool running, I actually set my waste board on fire!
Hitting the pause or stop print buttons will stop sending gcode to the board, but the board will still execute the instructions that it has cached.
I have the EStop button. One of these days I will look up how to wire it for the SKR Pro. It’s probably better for the electronics if i am not yanking the cord out all the time.
LOL, oh I have burned up some wood myself with an edge router and a dull tool. I probably was cutting too slow and it turned into friction vs cutting. Good thing it was your waste board!!! Hope no one got hurt? I have seen lots of home burning down with subpar 3d printers.
I’m responding to several things now… First, I’ve have my machine running, what, maybe 2 weeks now? I’ve done some real kick ass first cuts! Cherry, Maple, MDF, vinyl cutter, pens, pencil (I need something that applies constant pressure downward to make that work better - it’s on the list!), etc etc… I just went nuts. Then I wanted to do a laser, and thought it might be better to make/buy a more portable one so I can burn stuff outside (no vents) - I started another thread on that.
Routing edges! Hmmmmmm… I hadn’t thought of doing that with the CNC - mostly cuz I’d have to measure the project precisely and program that. Sometimes you just have to get back to “basics” and thrown the piece on your router table, or just do the old-fashioned way!! That what I did on two of the plaques I made with my kids names. One kid picked out some cherry live-edge crotchy piece and honestly it came out the best!! LOL
About the vinyl… I still have a learning curve or 3… the cutter is slightly off center so I need to figure out over-cutting… also, transfer tape is SUPER sticky and would not release my subject. I bought the wrong stuff, though. Had to redesign the holder, too…
Oh yeah - the E-STOP… total waste of money… well for this anyway! I might be able to use it somewhere else. But I can hit the little reset button on the controller board (which I extruded through the case with an old laptop mouse nub!!) just as fast. Z axis does always drop like a rock when I hit that button, or turn off the CNC. I have some MDF pieces that I use to catch it, otherwise if the router has a bit in it, the bit bottoms out on the waste board. Just need to establish habits.
and about the X Y location… only thing I can think is that you mark a very tiny START point down in the corner of you project (or you make/get that X Y Z zero thingy that I’ve seen somewhere… and just get the bit right on that point… THEN Zero the Z with the plate so you at least that is dead on. I’ll have to see if I can find that video about the X Y Z thing. The dude who did it (Knull something - I only remember that because it’s a bad word in Norwegian, my second language!! LOL) does a lot of videos and really knows his stuff!!
Christian Knüll - and I think he’s the writer of Estlcam!? Duh. Forgot. And thus why he really knows his stuff! LOL
In this video, he made a fancy contraption. My only problem is that he assumes your project has a 90degree corner. He did a previous video where he used aluminum tape, like you use for HVAC ducting and such.
Can’t post URLs here, so remove the spaces:
I think this contraption might resolve your issue!! It would/should always ZERO at exactly the same place. Just have to figure out what the gcode is to make it work outside ESLTCAM and program that into the Lowrider2 modded TFT/Marlin.
No bigger flame than a candle, but definitely an eye opener to the danger of mishaps.
I believe you wire the EStop to cut off all power, to both the motion system and the router. That way you don’t start a new problem by dropping your running tool into whatever is below.
Very good point, Geoffrey! I will have to rethink my habits!! And wire everything on a single circuit…
how about an “ESTOP” that actually runs GCODE and lifts the gantry UP 10 or 20mm!?? WOuld have to be on the printing screen while it’s printing… Lifting it up would for most situations clear your piece and router bit, without the plunging… I’ve actually been in this situation where I needed that because my clamps were getting hit!!
Don’t confuse an emergency with an inconvenience.
For me, emergency means stop everything right now, no questions asked. This means I am willing to write off the workpiece to prevent worse stuff ( my biggest concerns are fire or injury) from happening. Killing all power to everything is my personal choice for this situation. My e-stop switch cuts the hot wire for all AC power into my system which includes the DC power supply that feeds the controller and steppers as well as the AC feed to the spindle relay. I don’t need to remember what might still be energized while figuring out my next action(s) after something scary just went down.
There are options available for pauses that move tool to safe height and park the machine in a preset location. That doesn’t match my personal definition of emergency.
Sounds like your Machine rocks!!! I am totally envious!!!
LOL no, old school! before CNC’s. With the router bit and bearing on the end. That’s the problem, I don’t want to go back!!! My dad is like, hey can you make cabinet doors where you cut all the slats on the CNC with tongue and groves. I was like, why dad? That sounds like a lot of work. why can’t i cut it as a complete door and paint it? Oh you can do that?
However, my dad makes stuff on the shaper and router table that I am not sure I could make… at all. Those plaques sound cool.
Establish Habits… is that what its called!
I am looking for procedures. Step one do this, don’t do any of these 500 things. step two… Then follow those steps to a “T” until Establish Habits happen. 
Oooo that is a sweet idea!!! Christian just screwed his probe plate to a chunk of Aluminum! So this block would replace V1’s touch probe.
Question? Could we replace Repetier host with Estlcam? Like Christian does?
Geoffrey, I watched that guys video with the MPCNC where the z dropped and burning up his whole machine. Thats scary stuff! I don’t trust my machine well enough to leave it alone too long. Especially when many people have a dropping z. I was cutting a cabinet door, it rounded the corner on the final pass to cut it out from the MDF board but too much dust was in the track. it skipped about 2mm of steps and 22mm of bit was cutting at one time. I didn’t lose the bit but man did the LR complain! I was eating dinner and heard the VERUM!! OH CRAP! yanked the cord just in time!
Well then! Now i have to figure out how to wire my router to my machine too! Just to get the estop to stop all things. this is getting tricky! Oh but I totally like Dennis’s idea of raising up the gantry! My Prusa does that! when it hits something too hard, it stops, raises up and homes X/Y. At work, we have a Modix massive 3d printer. when something happens it drags the hotend across the 2’ bed. never stops until the plug is pulled and then its stuck pushing down the bed making a whole in the plastic. Not fun!
Wow, Tom. Your machine is beyond mine plus some! I like it. Can you send some pictures of your wiring and setup? Or did you already to that and i can’t find the post?
found it!
Sweet Build!
I wonder how to hook the SKR Pro that way??? some thinking will be needed on this one. 
As for Estlcam v/s Repetier host… I think it’s just a preference as to what you want to use, am I right? I actually never used RH and did all my start with Estlcam. Someday, when I either make a little money back using this thing, or win the lottery, I think I’ll buy VCarve by Vectric. I downloaded and used the DEMO and all I can say is WOW!!! Now don’t get me wrong; Estlcam can do a ton and I think I’ve even seen Ryan argue that it can do all that VCarve can do… But it’s pretty and shiny and has sharp pointy teeth… and LOOK AT THE BONES!
OK - so don’t leave your CNC alone when routing. Check.
And DON’T BUY JUNK STUFF! (back on topic. 
)
Before diving into my wiring description, I need to warn you that I’m not running any of the standard V1 control boards. I’m using a CNC Shield on an Arduino Uno and running grbl firmware. This is limited to 3 axes, so I don’t have dual end stops, but I do have one end stop each on X, Y, and Z and have a separate probe connection not tied to a particular axis.
I think I remember posting pics of my full control set up in my build thread. It’s all shoe-horned into an old enclosure I had kicking around, so it’s not very pretty, but it works.
My AC wiring path is pretty straight forward. I’ve got an IEC power inlet from the V1 shop (which includes a lighted switch and a fuse) which I use as the regular on/off switch. The hot wire from this outlet runs to the E-stop switch and from there to a couple of standard US 110 V AC duplex outlets from which I’ve broken off the isolation tabs so each outlet is powered independently.
Ground connections run direct from the IEC to the outlets. Neutrals for 3 of the connections run direct to the outlets, but the PID PWM board requires the neutrals and hots both be connected to the dimmer board to sense the frequency of the mains power.
It’s my intention to use the relay outlets for accessories like air assist and/or vacuum hold-downs but I haven’t added them to the system yet. I’m a little concerned about running too much amperage through the system. The relays are good for 10 amps each at 120V, but I don’t want to overstress the IEC fuse by running too many high demand accessories on top of the DC power supply and the spindle itself.
I’ve also got a 12-volt compressed air solenoid I might use to connect my shop air instead of running an aquarium pump or small compressor for “air assist.” It would be easy to add that to one of the unused relays and just move the control wire over. That hasn’t made it to the top of my “play around with it” list yet. There’s a buck converter inside the box that runs some 12v cooling fans, so it could also power this solenoid.
I’ve just completed reworking my whole-shop dust collection system (wall-mounted the HF 2 hp blower, added Wynn cartridge filter, added Thien baffle to a big fiber drum) so I don’t need to use a shop vac for chip collection - that would be a common use for one of the relays.
And just to keep on-topic, “Don’t By Junk Stuff” isn’t the same as “Dig Through the Junk Box!”
So a few days ago I am in the garage trying to figure out why my carriage feels like it is driving over a dirt road on my DOM rails. First off the Amazon DOM tubing came in with slight dings all over. It is straight but dinged. Which is typical! It’s even typical when you buy from a steel place to have dings.
Anyway, i am having a hard hard time rolling the carriage back and forth. There was even a fast slow fast slow movement, like every 4"?
so I thought, because I have this thing pulled apart and I already failed the Troubleshooting guidelines of only one fix at a time. 
I replaced the bearings with Amazon recommended 608-2rs bearings. came in at $7 bucks or something? I got two rolls of 16… which i was short a roll but really I was wanting to replace the carriage only.
Dont buy junk stuff!!! I previously got 100 sealed bearings from ebay for $16!!! At the time I was thinking, I have maybe a 10lb load on this thing? It moves extremely slow for what 608 bearings can do! Well, i found out my cheap bearings I bought were not concentric. Not only that, yesterday I was looking through past the shielding to the wall behind.
The Amazon bearings are so smooth compared!
I am itching to put this thing back together but I have a few more parts in the shipping phase. And I need to finish wiring my motor. I personally think it was a good idea to skip the trouble shooting phase and try to fix as much as possible and then go back into troubleshooting. We will find out what happens!!!
Yeah. The cheap bearings have caught a couple people before. That stinks.
There seems to be a problem in the marketplace.
With most products BUT bearings show this problem very clearly! Unless, for instance I never buy bearings, so I have no idea about them, So when I buy them I haven’t done the research to find out. Because I don’t care to research everything. Which makes the learning curve so much higher. Ooo i like this function!
I was watching a ton of youtubes on bearings that all said the same things. One researcher was so good! I wish i copied his link. He bought many 608 bearings. He had graphs and the amount of power it takes to move them in respects to bikes.
Come to find out that the quality of 90% of the bearings were so minute that it was a waste of money to buy expensive, ceramics, and sometimes big brand stainless steel bearings. However, he also said do not buy china junk. For the same reasons I talked about. 
Personally, I want that sweet spot, where I can still buy the things cheaply But they are not pure junk! It’s not like I am using most of these products to their limits. Infact, I am using maybe 10% of its capabilities. (I am not just talking about the V1 machines but any machines made. 3d printers, arms, little fun projects on Thingiverse, all sorts of good stuff.)
What a great deal! 100 not round bearings. How can i repurpose that? maybe my son and I can make derby cars or something? 
First off, wow!!! I’m going to have to read all that good info a few more times.
Tom you are totally correct! I am guilty of Both buying junk and using from the Junk box.
Why buy when you already have it? scratch that, why buy when you think you have it?
I don’t want anyone to walk my path and I do want everyone to save money. However, that being said, the amount I have learned, is worth the money of mess ups. Even though I am kind of buying the parts twice, the LR2 is coming along very nicely!!! In the future, when something goes wrong, I will already know if its a bearing, belt, motor, screw, control board, broken 3d print, bad wiring, unlevel table, using the software incorrectly and probably more.
Sometimes I need the messups to really know how to use the machine better.
Well I guess you can make 25 fidget spinners for your son and his friends. 
Fidget mostly-spinners*
Fidget wobblers?
Fidget Grinders?
So Funny!!!
I might have to make some of these Mostly Fidget Wobbler Spinners and Grinders. Maybe they will sell because they can’t spin? limited stock.