If you need another reason - Fine woodworking did a glue test several years ago and gorilla glue was actually the lowest performing glue in all categories. Turns out it’s just thickened polyurethane with a foaming agent. Elmers white glue actually beat it. I’ll see if I can dig up the article and share it.
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I’ve been using Gorilla SuperGlue Gel for the ‘blue tape trick’ to hold work down as well as on PLA parts and other things with good results. It was a lot better deal at HD than Loctite or other brands.
Yes, would love to see the article. I have no issues with the glue capability but it expands too much. Also is Elmers white glue the school glue we used to use in wood work, I recall mixing it with detergent and making bouncy balls, but thats many years ago.
@B-26
What’s the blue tape trick for this of us not in the know? My issue on my Ender 3 Pro is stuff sticking too well, not lack of adhesion.
Rob
I’m with you, I have an Ender 3 and have the same issue, sometimes the adhesion is too good. Depending on the shape of the printed piece I sometimes unclip the bed cover, place it over a hard edge and gently flex it, breaking the bond enough to allow using a putty knife to remove the piece.
The tape trick I was referring to is used on the CNC. Tape on the spoil board, tape on the workpiece, and SuperGlue Gel between the two to hold the workpiece down. So far it’s worked well for me when used.
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I use CA glue, epoxy, and titebond for different projects. They are all useful. I don’t like gorilla glue.
I also use construction adhesive (liquid nails). Especially if I jave to fill a gap.
You learn something new every day. That is a very useful trick indeed and is an answer to a question I have running around in my head. I have lots of things running around in my head, the trick is to stop them leaking out and people thinking I’m going mad 
Is that all you need? No clamps, no bolts? What tape do you use? Don’t forget we have different products in the UK and Europe.
My Ender 3 Pro comes with a magnetic cover and it can be a pain to get stuff off. I’m just printing a new dust show clamp in a very deep red eSun PLA+. This is the first one off this reel so lets see how it comes away.
Thanks
Rob
I use blue painters tape and CA gel, nothing else. I’d think the same tape may be available in the UK and Europe, possibly with a different name? I haven’t really explored the limits but so far it seems compatible with the MPCNC where you’re not going to make big hogging cuts at superfast speeds. I’ve also tried some double sided woodworking tape from Amazon recently. It’s listed for wood turning, if it can hold a blank on a lathe it must have some grip to it. Putting a chisel to the wood blank must surely put more of a shear load on the tape than the MPCNC would do. It has me thinking, I haven’t done any metal on the MPCNC yet but somewhere in the depths of a closet I have a jar of pre-Euro coins from various countries. I’m going to have to dig them out and see what I can do.
I have a regular Ender 3, the cover’s not magnetic but it’s texture may be the same as the Pro, it sure sticks too well sometimes as you’ve described.
Just an FYI, I was looking at Librecad videos on YouTube and there are a number of videos for blue tape tricks.
Tricks for successful super glue (cyanoacrylate) use:
- Scuff up smooth services to provide “tooth” for the glue. Sandpaper, emery board, file, even a few scrapes with the tip of a utility knife can make a difference.
- Use an accelerator to build fillets and fill gaps, but be careful none of your skin is in them. Baking soda can be used as filler as well, but it may cure harder than the things around it, making sanding to a smooth transition difficult. Accelerant may also give off significant heat during curing.
- Acetone can be used to dissolve cured glue from unwanted places, but be sure the acetone won’t damage the substance you’re working on.
Consider this in the context of the previous bullet as well…