i was just wondering if anyone had a good cheap source for these without having to wait a month for shipping? also the ones i keep finding say for 24-30awg, but i’m using 22awg for my machine… is it safe to run the 24awg from the aviation connector to the rambo board if the cables are really short? they would only be 4-6" tops.
I’ll have to verify, but I think I just used regular flat connectors without the locking pin. There shouldn’t be enough vibration inside the case itself to cause the connectors to slide off.
Not sure on the wire gauge, but I think you’d be ok. I know I’ve used a tiny flat-blade screwdriver to help shove oversized wire into connectors before. Or I’ve also used a lighter to melt off some of the extra plastic on the end of a wire to help it fit inside a connector easier.
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im sure you’re right about the regular connectors, but i found 4 of the latching dupont housings on some old cables i pulled from an old pc and i need one more for my z motor. definitely not a necessity, but the heart wants what it wants, and 4 out of 5 is not 5 out of 5
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I think they are made by molex.
thanks guys i found some at digi-key for a good price (and 3 day shipping) and they come with their own gold crimp pins - definite plus. also they are rated for 22awg.
Feel like sharing a link or a part number?
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/5-103957-3/1125834
Is that something Ryan would consider selling in the shop? He could buy bulk and make these more accessible for people… just a thought
If they are well made and work great then the MUST Molex 
Otherwise a cheap competitor. Sorry retired from Molex have to keep the loyalty.
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I’m paying close enough attention to see right through you 
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TE Connectivity is the former Tyco Electronics.
Still a good brand, not molex good 
but might be good enough…
Just get a resin printer and print your own.
Definitely on the list. I did search for an stl to try and print one on my non-resin printer but no luck
i got my digikey shipment and got everything wired up with the latching connectors, and i couldn’t be more pleased with the result. i definitely recommend these if you’re like me and compulsively account for murphy’s law… the only thing is how painfully aware i am of the fact that my z-probe is now the only non-latching connector 
i fear i may now have to order 5 more 3 pin latching connectors to get the 1 i need…
i was looking for the connectors on ebay and i noticed that the filament run-out sensor upgrade for a prusa uses a 3 pin latching connector! and as an added bonus i’m 1 part closer to my custom 3d printer!
Lots of parts distributors have 3D models for components - Digi-Key ,TE (formerly Tyco), and AMP are examples. Digi-Key, if I remember correctly, has a large library of parts for use in KiCad - the open source PCB/PCA design program. I think they’re in .stp format, and are used to visualize assemblies - an example:
Here’s a link to a sample part from TE:
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-104503-3.html
There are various formats available. A common one is step (.stp). You can just load that into FreeCAD or Onshape, then export as an stl. Here’s an AMP part done that way with FreeCAD:
Full disclosure - although I’ve played with generating .stl files from the models, I haven’t tried printing them yet.
- Al
P.S. McMaster-Carr has 3D models for lots of stuff too. They also have set (grub) screws with nylon patches on the threads. I’ve used them for many years in numerous applications. Very effective at keeping machine vibrations from loosening screws - think pulleys!
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Wow I found the part through digikey and had never been to the site but that is awesome to know. I’m already modifying the model of the part I bought to see if I can print a functional version that uses standard crimp pins. If it works out ill post the stl.
I don’t know what part you purchased, or why you need to modify the model, but if it’s to avoid supports - see if you can flip/re-orient it to remove the need for supports.
- Al
The model I am modifying had crimp pins inserted in the holes. I had to remove those, then I made it so it could be used without the special crimp pins
got the model, attempted a print - completely unusable… i really want a resin printer