I did not buy any plans. I made the playfield to standard Williams Widebody dimensions as shown in the images below. This made it compatible with standard parts such as the widebody glass, plastic channels, and stainless side rails. But I altered the backglass dimensions to better fit the monitors I had at my disposal.
I’m actually working on a 4-player arcade pedestal too. It’s not complete, but I can show off some early shots. I’ll probably get it wired up this weekend for testing, but it still needs artwork and finish. Eventually, I’m sure it will get it’s own thread.
If you’re referring to the arcade panel, yes, there are some different layouts. But it’s all about maximizing compatibility with as many games as possible. I’m going with 7 buttons for players 1 and 2 as this arrangement covers the control layouts for most Capcom and NeoGeo games, plus works well with Mortal Combat and many other 2-player games.
Very few arcade games use more than 4 buttons for players 3 and 4, so it’s a bit of a waste to add more. I’ll also have USB connections for physical controllers if needed.
The center controls are mirrored to Player 1 with buttons 1-3, but the joystick is set to 4-way instead of 8-way for compatibility on older games (e.g. PacMan) that don’t handle 8-way joysticks gracefully.
There’s also a trackball for Golden Tee or bowling games, and a spinner…though I don’t really have any games lined up for that yet. I don’t know if my way is the best way, but after some fairly extensive research, this is what made the most sense to me.
I recently got one of the arcade1up pinball machines, really enjoying it as is but I know I’ll be modifing it or building another v-pin all together eventually now that I’ve gotten a taste of how well it works.
Incredible! I literally just told another user in my Dragon’s Lair thread about Vpins and the william’s wide body plans! COOL That there is one here! Amazing build!
Us Arcade guys should start a thread for real, didn’t know there were so many of us here!
I remember seeing the “in progress” state a long time ago. Your post was one that got me thinking about possibilities. Later, we were watching Jeopardy and one of the contestants mentioned virtual pinball machines. It sounded so cool that I had to look it up, and the rest is history.
If you are interested, I completed the arcade pedestal mentioned above in another thread.
I would have loved to build another full-sized machine with a total graphics package, but there was no way (with the screen size I wanted) that I was going to be able to get a fully-assembled machine up the stairs to my game room in one piece, and I had no desire to build it up there.
These are my two favorite projects I’ve done with help from the CNC, no question.
Thank you! And… It goes without saying, your builds are a work of art! I love that marquee! Brilliant…
I’d love to have a 4P pedestal just for loading up TMNT just as you have!!! I have the original boardset for that game so naturally my first idea was, build a replica cabinet since I have the cad files for one, but that’s a HUGE cab, and I’m not entirely sure I want to get a divorce this year so a pedestal sounds less divorce inducing.
I’m gonna head on over and have a gander at your pedestal thread
Since the v-pin talk has been ramping up wanted show mine. Started out as a arcade1up machine but has been modded a bit. Used the low rider to help cut a few parts.
Yeah, they’re 3/4 scale, but normal leg length, standalone units. They have 3 different themed models and each have 10 built in tables that fit the theme. Good for the price, but now I’m running it from my desktop PC with an umbilical of HDMI and USB cables running to the cabinet so I can play any game I want.
Nudging is included as part of the Digital Plunger Kit I used. I haven’t messed with the default settings, but you can calibrate it to be more or less sensitive.
Two axis motion sensor provides real-time x and y coordinates (joystick X and Y) for realistic nudging.
There are a few solutions that make this possible. In my v-pin setup the kl25z board I used for button input has a built in accelerometer similar to what’s in most smartphones to allow for motion detection. It works great for nudging, but many add a real tilt bob to activate the actual tilt warnings/tilt. I bought a tilt bob but have yet to install it, I’m afraid it’ll make it too hard and I’ll get mad at it
Hey Matticustard! To achieve that look on the back of your pin, did you just shoot it with paint, skipping primer? Or is that a stain of sorts? I REALY like that appearance!
Thanks! But if I’m being completely honest, it was simply much faster and easier to wipe on a bit of stain than to paint those parts. It just happened to turn out looking pretty good too. And it helps that the cheap 5mm underlayment had a decent grain.
I can’t remember if I conditioned them first, but judging from my poor removal of the sticker and some splotches, I’m guessing not.
I’m loving it! Thanks for the info! I’m definitely gonna try this myself because I do love the woodgrain showing through on the back pieces anyway. Most of my arcade machines that I’ve built, I’ve primed and painted the entire thing with no visible woodgrain at all. Always LOOKS smooth, but also can make it look ‘fake’ or ‘cheap’ in a way… It’s hard to explain my logic there lmao
You do amazing work as always, and your thread has helped me convince my wife we NEED a pin. So thank you for that as well! haha
