Hello!!
Yet another MPCNC, this time from Sweden.
All parts printed and all electronics aquired. Still waiting for swedish PostNord to loose my last orders.
My tubings are 25.4mm with 1.5mm walls (good enough to make motorcycle frames of)
In the boxes are all parts and in the IKEA-LACK case is the victim, my printer that has been running hot for a while.
I have a 500W router incoming as well…the Dewalt 660 is not available over here, besides we do not run 120V…
Some day I want to build an enclosure for at least one of my 3D printers. I have all the materials, but just haven’t gotten to it. So many things to do.
That is a nice skull mixed in there too! Looking forward to your build. Good luck with the post and the assembly.
I have my 3D printer as well in an Ikea rack with a door in front of it and a drawer for the odds and ends:
My sides are very temporary. 3mmDepron and some sort of flexible clear-ish plastic… All to be replaced by 3 and 4mm plexiglass. Need to print out some more pieces for that tho…
I have mine mounted on a LACK table with a LACK enclosure over the top of it too.
I mounted the Pi and power supply to the underside of the lower table and then ran all the cables through grommets I 3d printed. The power supply is mounted so the hot air from the exhaust blows up into the enclosure to help keep the air inside of it warmer. Finally, I added a temperature controlled exhaust fan to keep the enclosure from getting too hot. The exhaust fan has two settings, one for PLA and one for ABS. The PLA setting pretty much runs the fan all the time to keep the air near room temperature and the ABS one pretty much never runs to let the case warm up a bit. I honestly don’t think the exhaust fan helps with any of it.
Here’s my power supply mount and LACK grommets I used:
And here’s the grommet I made for passing the Pi camera cable through another hole:
All my nuts and bolts are stainless steel, I will source hex-heads for all of them but currently there are some odd heads, flat and philips mixed with hex. On top of the 3d printer (picture) is the Ramps 1.4 with an Arduino mega 2560 board as well as 2 steppers connected. I use the good old 4by20 LCD displays for both 3dprinter and MPCNC
Hi from Sweden to. Im looking for other swedish mpcnc builders. Nice to see you here. I hope some other can join and share lowrider builds.
I am currently printing 2 brackets for the 500W spindle. I found the models on Thingiverse like anything else…
I’m curious, do you let the CNC control Spindle as well?
I have the option to connect it and I can also set speed manually with a rotary dial.
Well thus design sucks big time if you go metric… Several parts have been broken when I try to jam a screwdriver to hold a nylock nut in place… Now it is broken to an extent that I have to break parts apart to salvage nuts, bolts and bearings…
I do not know If I will continue working on this design of CNC or if I will look for something else.
Ouch. That’s not good. What parts in particular have been problematic?
The rollers keeps cracking when you apply force sideways on the m4 nuts and the design doesnt allow to use a spanner either. As I now no longer can’t keep the locknut from spinning I cannot disassemble the parts either…
I cannot tight them enough, I can easily rotate the tube without any force. It is not stable from side to side.
I think a major drawback is that the motormount that doubles as a clamp for the tube is only held in place with 2 screws compared to the corners that are held in place with 4.
There are no side to side or rotational forces at all. The part is there just to keep the tube from falling out. If the tube does not rattle it is more than tight enough.
There is a tip in the build instructions you must have missed. Thread the nylocks on first to loosen them up. Your nylocks are obviously insanely tight. Instead of breaking all your parts lets take this one at a time and do it right. If you run into an issue, stop, post it here with a picture and let us help.
The screws are a pivot point, and the belt on the front provides clamping force as well as even belt tension.
As you can see thought has gone into all these design decisions and even to the problems you are having. Instead of saying things like this reach out and let us help you. You bought all your own parts (decided not to buy imperial), printed your own parts, live on the opposite side of the globe as the designer and you are so close to having a functioning machine. Take a quick second to realize how difficult that is for me to do and how minor your issues are now that you have reached out. To top all of that off, I the designer, as far as I know have received no money from you in any way and am here trying to help you succeed. Please refrain from criticizing things until you understand them.
Ok, good to know. I’ll try tomorrow to add shims on both sides of the nut to keep it from rotating. Then I can undo the assembly. Also I think a 20mm m4 is a tad on the long side… I’ll grind it off a few mm…
Yes that must be it… Or I use regular nuts with threadlock instead…
Thanks for clarifying about the clamping point. I’m sorry if I get rude, I am just upset that it does not work as I expected it to… And yes I know you spent a lot of time into this project.
Hi UndCon,
My ‘metric-land’ solution for the nuts in the rollers and feet was to go up a size. M5 nuts fit nicely in the 8mm spaces for US nuts. The downsize is that I had to enlarge the holes, which can’t leave much plastic - but it seems OK.
Oddly enough, my local Screwfix only had stainless steel nuts and bolts of the right size, but they were the same price as regular steel. However I discovered that running a stainless bolt into a stainless nylock a few times with a drill to loosen up the nylon insert was enough to gall (cold-weld) the thread and ruin both.
So I switched to ordinary (non-nylock) nuts, with cap-head (allen key) bolts.
Probably a regular M4 nut would be easy enough to hold in place with a shim, and would avoid having to drill larger holes.
I wouldn’t be too hasty with the thread-lock, I had to take my rollers apart a few times while fitting the central assembly. Maybe get it all working, and then go back and apply it.
The screwdriver thing isn’t metric only just to be clear. I have to do it on some as well. Just know you only assemble it once. The option is making larger parts that take up more room in the build, longer to print, typically less strong, and more expensive to ship.
No worries just know we help a ton of people and any hint of negativity typically gets skipped over in favor of friendlier posts.
