Preface: Lowrider2 build for a 24 x 48 cutting area. Using Rambo 1.4 & LCD. Using Fusion 360 cad and cam, using the much appreciate post processor from the Docs for MPCNC. I printed the plastic parts and I cut out the wood parts. X axis is wheeled, y-axis tube. Have drawn crown successfully and repeatedly. Have not implemented stops. Have a touch plate but have not as yet used it. I am a relative beginner at Fusion360 (F360) but am using it for 3d printing so thought I would continue its uses with this.
My questions thus far:
The z-axis height is different from one side to the other, about 0.15mm at all times. I’m not sure why that would be (unless it is related to my machining efforts on the Y plates). Is there anything I can do for this or just surface the spoil board? I intend to cnc new Y axis and 611 plates.
My first efforts are to cut out the 611 and the Y plates and have started with the 611 plate first. This process has been a trip but I am learning. One area I really am guessing at though is where the router is going to go after moving into the place I want it to start from. I jog the machine to the position, lower the z axis to just touch the work piece (following the advise of lower left corner), and reset the coords. I have been not turning on the router so I can first see which way it wants to go and then killing the process if it doesn’t match my expectations and then adjusting my expectations and redoing the machine start point with what matches what it wants to do. How do I quit being the machines bitch and make it work from what I want to do?? (LOL) I’ve read the docs on coords a couple times and I suspect my issue is a lack of understanding the fusion360 side of things. Appreciate any tips or steps to follow.
In the 611 plates are holes for 6-32 screws. I bought the starter pack of 1/8"bits and created a tool path using the 1/8" ball nose bit (and I hope in my ignorance I don’t offend any mill pros) to drill those out and in the test I’ve done, the holes are not big (diameter) enough for the 6-32s (I can always drill them out later if needed) so my question is did I use the right bit or should I have used something else or is there something in F360 that I should have done to ensure I get the correct clearance holes? For reference, I imported the 611 DXF to F360 and extruded out for the 12 mm ply I am testing with but did not do anything with the holes.
Forgot, I also wanted to better understand what the recommended steps arefor doing a tool change as it is difficult not to move the router when doing so. Appreciate input for that process as well, thank-you.
Also, wanted to say thanks to Ryan for an outstanding rabbit hole I’ve jumped into with both feet. I supported V1 by purchasing the bundle/board/bits and a few extras. It has been fun to assemble and see it all coming together and working right out of the boxes so to speak.
The key here is the origin (0,0) in the drawing. When you reset the cords, you’re telling the machine that it’s at the origin. Some drawings have the origin at the bottom left, others in the centre.
For a tool change, you need some sort of repeatable position. You can use limit switches and homing, or roll the machine against blocks of wood. Jog the machine into position, write down the coordinates, then zero. After the tool change you reset, jog to the coordinates you wrote down, and zero again.
For the tool change I am not sure I understand. I am using the LCD to drive and load prints, so when it beeps I need to change the bit and if I do anything with the LCD it will immediately start the next path. Does what you advise work in that context?
Hi All , i have been a builder for many years , i built a 3d printer in the rep rap days , i have built and used the mpcnc which was great , i decided to build bigger and went for the Lowrider2 , my printed parts came out perfect and i splashed out on stainless steel rods the build looks great and went together with no issues , i must give Ryan a big shout out for this design amazing . I do have an annoying problem though… my Z axis thats away from the electronics board seems to lose steps , even jogging up and down , i have marked the lead screw and after two rotations the lines dont mactch left and right , i have checked theres no binding , they are wired in series , i have increased the voltage a little on the drivers , i have shortened the wires as much as i can . Using an arduino UNO board 18volt power supply drv steppers on 1/32 steps , after a long rout it begins to cut too much at one side over a 600mm cut . I can normally figure these things out with determanation but apart from a 5 axis board i am at a loss on this one.
LR2 has direct-drive on the Z axis, right? Double checked the grub screws anyway? You may need to pull the leadscrew(s) and file a flat in them for the coupler set screws to grab (maybe even the motor shafts as well). Have you disconnected the leadscrews, put tape on the motor shafts, and verified that both motors are turning in sync?
Oh, and welcome to the asylum where the inmates run the show!
Hi and thanks for the speedy reply, direct drive off two nema 17 wired in series, will double check that , was focusing on electronics may have missed that , will put a flat on then its done for good , will mark and retest , i had marked both lead screw and coupler so don’t think it was slipping …
