I’m Cristopher, come from Poland but currently live in UK. I found this MPCNC bulid plans long time ago, tried to bulid it… but as far i remember there was website down for quite long time, so i stopped all. After year i found some parts during cleaning “workshop” and decided to check again. All was avalible again, even more information appeared and that was my dream start. I printed all original parts, followed instructions and get it to this state:
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Later I printed rest parts, grab mks gen L (form old 3d printer), wire all up (thanks Ryan for tape measure trick! Love it!) and test it with pen.
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That was point where i felt to confident and made huge mistake. I move to steel sheet with 0 knowledge and 0 expernice.
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At this point i snap leg mount and one corner (i think i made it to tight when assembling). I found some mods on fb group so i decided to print “stronger” corners and legs. I think Ryan made it strong enought, but not idiot proof - like me It was cleary my fault so went back to reading.
Now my MPCN looks like this:
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There is still a lot to learn, to adjust, have to start using auto aquaring etc. Tried fusion360 and post processor but dont know why MPCNC moves so strange. I mean when in f360 I see rapid move (G0) my MPCNC start to move so stupid fast. Thinking if i made something wrong in Marlin? (max speed or something). When it start milling all looks fine.
At the end want say big thanks to Ryan for sharing this awesome project!
P.S. Sorry for any mistakes (specially gramma ones), but i had Germany in school. Yes I live in UK and before i came I had hope to leran it, but reality is… now i can speak Russia or Romania :))
What a solid build! Thanks for sharing. I like the modification with the longer bolts to manage the wiring on the end of the axis.
Your English is better than my Polish. I only know pivo, kapusta, pierogi, kielbasa, and of course, “dupa” because my Polish grandmother would warn me to behave or mine would get a whack!
I believe You know “kurwa” as well That longer bolt i used to fix 3d printed part i created - to mount tape measure. On the photo was no nut on the end, but later added it there.
Just wondering, do You know what can make fusion 360 and mpcnc post processor generated file to make so stupid fast moves? I tried to not use rapid moves (changed to use hight speed feed), but it look this same. When it start milling or pocketing all looks fine, only moves beetwen “jobs” are stupid fast.
Sorry, I don’t know Fusion 360 CAM and post processing. However, you may want to make sure that in your rapid between moves that you are using the correct units. I have noted that there is often confusion between settings that require mm per minute and some settings in software that requires mm per second.
I made my very first tool path in Estlcam this evening. Day one survived without breaking an endmill. I started the job cutting out the letter “M” in 19.3mm MDF. Halfway through it dawned on me that the endmills have the collar on at 15mm so I canceled after it got close to that depth.
Okay, after some learning I manage to cut something. Here a little play in HPL trespa:
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Need to think about any better dust shoe, as this work fine with wood, but not with trespa.
In the end it looks like this:
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Have to say that normal wood is much easier than this high pressure laminate. Bits getting really hot or when try to go faster breake too easy Found best speed at 11mm/s, 2mm doc and router at 75% speed. I also finally sorted fusion 360 to get some cuts but nothing special so no point to make pic My problem was in post processor, there was no speed declare in each line. Once selected to add speed to every command line - all working as it should! A lot learning now in front of me. It’s a shame that busy season started in work (6 am - 7pm), so not many time left for MPCNC
I’m using some 1/4 bits (90deg and 60deg V bits) I had 1/4 single flute straight bit from router set but it break during cutting so had to replace it with 13 mm slot cutting bit I know is not for that job, but had to finish so used what I had.
For playing with wood I use normal 1/8 single flute down or upcut bits and collet chuck adaptor. I mean 1/4 to 1/8 adaptor. Works fine
And last is my current project, i made photo of BMW key then made 3d model and will try cut it on both sides in copper. This will be an emergency key to open doors. First i need to find right speeds, seems like 12mm/s, 0.5 doc and router half the speed work just fine. Now i need cut hole for metal make 0 in one corner, engrave on one side and flip it on the other and do work again. Last just cut to cize.
It was cleary my fault so went back to reading.
That longer bolt i used to fix 3d printed part i created - to mount tape measure. On the photo was no nut on the end, but later added it there.
