New UK Build (soon)

I feel technically I’ve started as I’ve begin sourcing. I was ordering steppers from OMC for a 3D printer upgrade so thought I’d save postage and get the MPCNC steppers at the same time.

I’ve also just pulled the trigger on Ali belts, pulleys and bearings. I want to run right tolerances so have stuck with vendors I know, namely Powge and Raindew.

I’ve a fair bit of 3D printer build experience (just finished my third, converting a dead Ender into a dual extruded, linear rail, coreXZ) but this will be my first venture into subtractive manufacturing.

I’m thinking 24V PSU as my BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo and the steppers will handle it, and it means less amps for the same torque in the motors.

I’m fairly comfortable with wiring and software, so am going to make life hard on myself by either reconfiguring and compiling Marlin, or going whole hog and trying Klipper (which I hear can be done).

Bolts and rail to be ordered, but before that I need to put up a new shed to store Christmas lights and fishing equipment so I can have the garage back as a workshop. Again, for tighter tolerance in thinking SS rails as opposed to conduit.

To start with in going to use a Dremel, then will upgrade this one I get a feel for what I need.

Now, important decisions, what colour shall I print the parts in?


From my hobbyist’s understanding of stepper drivers, this is not true. At any normal feedrate for cutting things like wood and aluminum, the effective voltage seen by the steppers is far below 12V even if the drivers are being powered by 24V. Higher voltages provide more torque with high feedrates. For typical uses of the MPCNC, feedrates don’t ascend to a point where higher voltages are valuable. It starts becoming valuable with high-speed laser engraving, and perhaps high-speed foam carving. On the other hand, I don’t see any downsides to powering your machine with 24V.

BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo

V1 maintains a couple of versions of the firmware for the SKR Turbo you can use as starting points if you decide to go the Marlin route.

Now, important decisions, what colour shall I print the parts in?

I know you were writing tongue and cheek, but remember a color visualizer for the primo. I read about it in [this post]( Here is the topic I read about it.), but I’ve never used it.

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I still think the best colors are gray and pink. YMMV.

Many thanks for replying. That makes sense. I’m thinking more torque when I think of 3D printers traveling at hundreds of MM/S. I know just enough to be be able to leap to the wrong conclusions :wink:

I didn’t know that! Many thanks.