I jinxed it…I’ve tried three times now to print the one last corner lock and it’s all just like it used to be. I killed through the whole spool though - almost completely rock-star style!
Time to keep looking into the BL Touch mount. Since I’m between spools right now I’m going to try switching it up and seeing if I can get the translucent to print. It’s the one I tried with zero success a while back.
not sure if it will help. But if you try the raft again try setting the margin or buffer a little thicker. I don’t remember what it is called but it is the measurement of extra space around the outside of the object. In other words if the object you are printing is small like a 10 mm cube you can make the margin of the raft be a plus 8mm. So it will create a raft that is 8 + 10 + 8 mm wide. The wider raft makes it so even if it does peel up a little on one side or a corner the rest might still hold enough to save the print.
In your pictures it looked like your raft only had like a 1 or 2 mm margin. On my pictures of my raft from last week I had it set to 8 I think. That’s because the Z lock but parts peeled up on me so I tried again with a raft margin thick enough to make the rafts all stick together as one big raft.
Just an idea. Not sure if it will help.
Bill, Ryan and Jeffeb3
Yeah the “original Prusa” line has a custom version of Marlin. Somehow the board detects that power was cut and the processor has something like 30 milliseconds to do something about it. So they write some data to the EEPROM. The line number it was on the temperatures etc. But I think it needs to be printing from the LCD. I watched the video where Tom S was interviewing Josef about it. Sounded like a great idea!
I have wondered if that firmware trick can be used on other boards or does the “Original Prusa” printers have some special hardware that detects the power outage. In any case I am sure it will show up in later versions of Marlin if it can be made to work.
I had been meaning to ask actually - how many raft layers do you use? I’ve been using two but wonder if I should be using more or less. I can definitely try making the footprint bigger but the adhesion issue I’m having is in the middles of the raft lay down. The edge of every second or fourth extrusion (there’s no magic formula other than it seems to be always in exactly the same places) is lifting so it doesn’t join to the next and what I end up with is like a fish gill looking thing. The second raft layer seems to beat some of the scales down but that’s only if the nozzle doesn’t catch a ridge on the way over and break the first layer free. I can get a pic if that doesn’t make sense.
By no means does this take me anywhere near the “throw it all in a bin” zone. Every time I look at the table in my office heaped with printed parts I smile a little 
Hi all, I cam just a couple of days ago across this build, and like to give it a try.
No experience with 3D printing either, but I’m considering to order a Enders 3, they are all praising that little machine, at least in the under 200$ range.
As said, I’m new to 3D printing, and have watched a “ton” of Youtube videos, about 3D printing and also on different filament materials.
From different YT videos on the MPCNC, I know that some use ABS rather than PLA, but did not really find what most are using here on the forum. Just wondering if members tinkered with other materials like PTEG or Nylon.
Would be great to hear from others experiences.
ABS might be a little too flexible. PLA is a really stiff plastic, so when it breaks, it breaks. ABS will flex some before it breaks. I used PETg for my mpcnc, and PLA for my lowrider. Either will work, but if you’re just starting out, stick with PLA, it’s a much more forgiving filament to use.
Don’t be afraid to print faster. I print at 70mm/s as my “standard” speed. I slow it down to 60 or maybe 50 if I want to completely and totally eliminate ringing/ghosting artifacts depending on which printer I’m printing with. And I’ll go 90-100+mm/s when ghosting being visible is not a problem.
On a Cartesian printer, or a delta? If that is a cartesian, can you share the acceleration and jerk settings I would love to decrease my cycle time. At 35mm/s I show very minor ghosting as much as I am comfortable selling at least, any more and I think it could affect the fit of a few of the parts.
I am using Cura as my slicer and I think it defaults to 5 layers. But they all get gradually thinner until the top layer is crazy thin like .1 mm thick. I have thought about trying to use fewer layers but the fact that it has been working with such a great success rate I have been hesitant to tinker with it. My raft is about 1.2 mm thick when it is all done.
But I am not sure if it will help your situation or not. I saw the fish gills you were describing in those previous videos you posted. I was convinced that they were being caused by air flow at the time. If you are still getting those then that is definitely the problem we need to try to solve. I think it will stay a problem even after you get the probe installed.
You might want to make sure there is no air flow on the print bed. I used to put up cardboard walls around my printers in my basement to prevent drafts from causing problems. But since you say it is always in the same spots on the bed then that leads me to think we need to level the surface of the bed. The probe will help to calculate the angle that the bed is sitting but I don’t think it will bump map the high and low spots for you. So I am going to suggest you replace the surface you are printing on. I would suggest the following setup starting at the bottom.
A layer of insulation, The bed heater, A layer of aluminum or glass to create a flat surface (no bumps), A layer of new PEI or better yet Something like this. They are currently sold out of the exact ones I usually buy. I expect they will be back in stock soon. But I see a new “spider” brand on amazon that are made in a ton of new sizes to fit any 3d printer bed shape or size. I think I might buy a 12" X 12" for the Lulzbot Taz 5 at work and try it out. The stuff I have been using is amazing! PEI is my second best choice. I would rate PEI a 7 on a scale of 1 - 10. I would rate the “Build surface” I have been using as a 9.8. it is amazing! My only complaint i had with it was it was only sold in 8" by 8 inch sheets and I use a 12 X 12 bed at work. So there are seems between them on the bed that tend to warp up after a few months. I think I will buy these new ones and let you know how well they work.
I’ll reply in the “Adhesion Problems” thread with the results.
OH! PS: if you order on amazon don’t forget to click one of Ryan’s amazon links first then search for what you want. That way he gets a little commission for the referral.
Holy crap! I don’t print that fast on my delta!
Cartesian. My printers are heavily modified Wanhao Duplicator i3s. Jerk is set to 8 and acceleration at 800 which I think is lowered significantly from stock Repetier settings. So, I realize it’s hardly ever actually reaching that max print speed.
Also, the last time I used a raft was when I printed the test file that came with the printer. Rafts are good to compensate for a warped or uneven print surface, but are otherwise a waste of material and time. With a good print surface, good leveling, and good first layer settings, a raft is completely unnecessary. I do occasionally use a brim when there’s very little surface contact with the bed, but never a raft. The MPCNC tool mount was printed without a raft or even a brim, at 70mm/s and I had no adhesion problems.
With an acceleration that low are you getting bulging corners, or do you use linear advance on your extruder?
Any lower than a setting of 2000 XY I get really poor corners, bulge and starve.
I examined a few prints and there is a very slight corner bulge. Not enough to notice without looking for it.
I had to research Linear Advance. Very interesting stuff. I’m running Repetier firmware on my printers. I keep finding out about all these cool features that Marlin has that Repetier doesn’t, but I just can’t stand the interface to Marlin. I had a couple printers once that had Marlin and hated using them. The menu structure is so illogical. I need to spend more time learning how to customize it.
Well if you are getting away with those speeds I would not change anything.