I fell in love with the project in December and ordered the kit. Then I got my 3D printer over Christmas and here I am, done with the initial build! I can’t stress enough how helpful this forum has been in guiding me to build this project with zero experience in either 3D printing or CNC. It was finally time to set up an account.
I still need to hook up the vacuum, so I haven’t gotten too dirty just yet. But the electrician is coming next week to install 20 amp plugs around my garage so I can set up my new 2 HP dust collector and run all of my tools without worrying about the breakers.
Here are a few pictures of the progress. Hope you enjoy!
Looks great and it appears like you used some plastic for your y plates? Is it lexan? Nice work on the cable and cleanliness. I think you are really going to enjoy all the possibilities.
Thanks! Yes, it’s Lexan. I actually got that idea from your build, which is amazing by the way! You have a great color scheme. I originally wanted to do green and purple too, but was having a hard time finding colors that bright.
I’m probably going to redo the Lexan at some point using the CNC since I ran into a few issues with grabbing while trying to use the flush trim bit on my router table with a 3D printed jig. They work for now but they aren’t as perfect as I’d like, especially the interior cutout around the motor. It’s hard to notice though when everything is put together. But a 12"x12" sheet can be picked up from Amazon for about $20, and the Y-plate fits if angled.
That’s fun to hear and thanks. I hadn’t used lexan before other than for mtb bashguards so getting mine made from the stuff was a total fluke thing as I mentioned. I don’t know if you’ve looked in on my build since but I revised my mounting/organizing and used from threaded nutserts. The lexan takes threads really well. I’m very impressed with the stuff.
Keep us all posted as you progress, I think part of the fun of seeing all the builds is the ideas we all bring to the forum by solving our own slightly unique problems.
It looks great… I have a couple questions if you don’t mind.
I am debating buying a 3D Printer from Amazon before I buy the kit for LR2. How much $ for the plastic (PLA) to make the Printed parts for LR2. Never had a 3D Printer before so don’t have a clue. Would it be cheaper to make them myself or buy from V1?. Of course I know I’ll be able to use the 3D Printer for other stuff too. Any recommendation on a Printer?
Thanks,
Steve
From what I have found, PLA generally runs around $20-25/kg (2.2lbs). I used the Overture PLA+ filament, blue and yellow, specifically for the colors. Many people swear by Hatchbox, but I had no major issues with the Overture. From the two spools, I still have roughly half of the blue and a bit of the yellow — and this includes several failed prints. So, less than $50 in plastic, not including the printer and accessories.
I certainly don’t claim to be an expert at 3D printing and there are many to choose from. Following some research, I went with the Ender 3 Pro, plus the additional glass build plate and BL Touch auto-leveling sensor, as well several 3D printed upgrades for the printer (filament guide, extruder knob, z-axis stabilizer). Also, I used a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint so I wouldn’t have to run back and forth with an SD card. Despite some failures, it was a positive experience.
So thanks very much for reply. So it looks like you may have saved $20/25 by printing yourself, based on $67 from V1. Is there a big learning curve to 3d printing.
Did you buy printer on Amazon? BTW I’m down the road from you in Biloxi…
Thanks
oops…just noticed the red links lol
Sure, there is certainly a learning curve, but there are so many videos online that it’s not too hard to get up to speed. Yes, I got the printer and accessories from Amazon. The links are provided in my initial response, which I copied from my purchase history.
As for software, I found Cura to be very easy to use for slicing. And you can combine/duplicate parts to print them in batches.
I just remembered that I also used this Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing too. I can’t really say how much difference it makes since I didn’t try any prints with the factory tubing, but it seemed to be on everyone’s upgrade guide.
Whatever you decide to do, have fun and good luck! I’ve finally had an opportunity tonight to make some cuts on my Lowrider and I’m beyond impressed with the machine.
Good to know…I’m hoping to get the Lowrider 2 started in the near future. Still have to decide whether to get a 3D printer first or just order the printed parts for now.
Thanks,
Steve
Having your own printer would also let you print your own modifications, or other people’s modifications.
But it is a learning curve. Ryan tries hard to make the parts printable on any machine, and you don’t have to be an expert, but the parts from Ryan will be good quality (he is an expert).
I basically would suggest buying from Ryan unless you really wanted the satisfaction of printing them yourself. After you’ve made that decision, you may still consider buying a 3D printer (or making your own). They are a lot of fun. If you want to convince yourself, take a look at some of the things made in https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/. Then there are all the non functional things you can make.
Hi Jef
Some interesting stuff over there… Oh, I know Ryans printings will be great. I will probably get them from him instead of trying to learn a 3D printer at the moment, but I want to get a printer eventually. Can’t get everything at once $$$.
Thanks,
Steve
Stephen - I recently bought a £70 printer and a couple of £11 rolls of filament, and while every part of the machine could do with upgrading, it’s still able to make good solid parts for the MPCNC.
The frame is 5mm plywood, and needed some bracing to hold the X and Y axis perpendicular. Other parts bend under belt tension.
The Z lead screws are just threaded rod, and slightly bent. There are lots of solutions for this, but the resultant ripple is only cosmetic.
The smooth rods are thin wall tubes, and not perfectly straight either. Either they’re undersized or the bearings are very poor because there’s noticeable play.
The engineer in me wants to upgrade everything, but it does actually work and I’ve almost finished printing all the parts and not had a failed print yet. I don’t know how much I’ll use it after this, but it’s provided a useful introduction to the world of CNC
I would have had to pay for international shipping, plus 20% tax, plus a handling fee and possibly import duty too, so it has paid for itself (if I don’t count my time, or the lower quality of my parts!).
Plus, you can “quickly” reprint any pieces that may fail under load (seriously, use a straight-handled hex driver to set the bolts, not anything that gives you leverage and nothing that has a power cord or battery), or that Ryan redesigns in that labyrinthine mind of his…
I’m still working on getting things dialed in, but thought I’d show off my first large carving (well, large for me at 24" x 24"). I made it for my niece — she’s going through an artistic phase and I thought she’d like to paint it. There are a few imperfections, but I thought it came it really well overall. I’m going to seal and prime it before giving it to her. I used a 1/8" end mill for clearance and a 1/2" 60° V-bit for carving. It took roughly 10 hours in total. I could probably speed that up, but I’m keeping the settings pretty conservative for now.
I used strips of 2mm craft foam (doubled up) and cut some flaps for flexibility. The Lexan fins provide enough spring to load and maneuver the foam, but also enough grip to hold it firmly in place.
And it’s not pretty yet, but I made a temporary tower for my X-axis cable since I accidentally chewed through the first one when it got pulled under the machine. OOPS!!!
