Tubing europe

Hi guys I am really struggling to find the mentioned tubes is there a possibility to get a 26 mm od or the printed parts?
As I calculated it is a 102% of the J version
Will I have any issues doing it this way
By far the easiest way is to make a 26 mm od as a K v3rsion

Sorry, but that has been asked and it just isn’t possible. The models don’t have room for that without a ton of rework.

Most Europe machines are built with 25mm tubing. 25.4mm and 23.5mm are common in North America.

You might try to change where you are looking. Pipes are measured by what they can hold (so the inside diameter is a common size). Tubing is meant for building things (so the outside diameter is the common size). 25mm tubing is going to be a common building material for metal shops (or car mechanics, or anyone that welds).

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I used chromed wardrobe bar found at Leroy Merlin(if it exists in your country), it costed me 8€ for 1m 25mm / 1.5mm thickness bar so less than 60€ for an 600x600 primo


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hi guys got the tubing special category foods and pharma specified 316 25.4x1.5
have been in several places also leroy as some sugested
unfortunately this type of tubes for wardrobes and blinds is not suitable if you build the primo to mill aluminium nor aluminium tubes
I have lots of engineering knowlege and experience,
and I am sad to see critics on youtube etc of people specially with no knowlege at all that the machine is wobly there must be a reason why mills weight tons…

What about fullfilling tubes with 2 components resin like epoxy ?

is a very good idea and the best to add is the smallest size lead balls you can find as it absorbs all vibrations only gold is better
but then you loose the ability to pass trough the cable if that is not your concern is the top solution

well you can pass the cable trough and then fill in your mix adding connectors on both side

You could run a narrow electrical conduit through the tubes for the cables. I think that would be pretty amusing, using both the conduit and tubes in one build. Not sure how much epoxy thickness you’d need though.

This has been done in the forums before. I don’t have my finger on the post right now, but the person who did it decided it wasn’t worth the effort.

There are a lot of machines that just use hollow tubing and they work well. The biggest impact on being able to mill alluminum is the size. A smaller build (in the Z too) really helps make it more rigid. Adding stuff inside the tubing doesn’t affect the rigidity much.

This has all been discussed before, and I’m always open to new data about it. But there is a very well beaten path to success.

Hi again straight resin might not help but has someone tried out adding lead?
to cut titanium on a lathe the knive is mounted or passing through a box with lead balls, if not it brakes.
now on a 3d printed machine i have no clue where is the downdraw.
once i ve finished my build and test it i will reveal it maybe you like my mods on it till then

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I there is more improvement to be expected from improving stiffness than from damping vibrations. Epoxy fill, with or without lead filler should increase the stiffness by about the same amount as a separate solid bar of epoxy (or epoxy+lead), which is a small fraction of the stiffness of the metal tube to start with. A second metal tube stands a chance of making a worthwhile difference, but almost all other materials have such low stiffness (Young’s modulus) that they won’t add anything.

And even then, a second metal tube only really makes sense for conduit, where you can’t simply buy a thicker-walled tube. For structural tubing, if you are wanting stiffness at the expense of weight and cost, just buy thick-walled tubing.

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nice job