V5 #1 The Plated Printer

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

V5 #1
This printer was a group effort and a direct result of everyone’s input, Help develop the next MP3DP!?!

CAD is here - Fusion

This is a CoreXY with easily machinable plates for ultimate rigidity where it counts but 3D printed parts where it does not matter to save from complicated multi-sided milling. Milled / Printed 3D Printer, MP V5, Mostly Plated 3D printer, call it what you want.

Belted Z axis, with free floating bed to allow for physical tilt correction as well as mesh correction, and possible non-planer printer in the future. Electronic brakes provide easy drop protection for the bed.

This first build of mine has a 300x300x200 build area, running Klipper, Costs about $800.

Note for potential builders
If you are thinking about building a printer… a V1 Engineering CNC is an easy to intermediate build, a 3D printer is an advanced to expert build. A lot of personal build decisions need to be made, wiring is on the advanced end, firmware edits are required, CAD reference and possible edits are required, and overall build precision is higher.

Because the builds vary, so wildly, instructions are sparse and might not exist for the exact combination of hardware and electronics you choose. As always you can come here for help but if you chose random parts we might not have enough experience with them to help. If you are on the fence and want to tackle this, it would be best to follow my build exactly.

The Pictures

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

BOM -

Bed Parts - Mains powered 1/4" thick aluminum, Z-Brakes, thermal fused.
Bed plate, Amazon.com $27
Insulation, Amazon.com $12
Fuse, Amazon.com $7
Heater, Amazon.com $37
PEI, Amazon.com $50
SSR, Amazon.com $13
Relays for Z-Brakes, Amazon.com $15
The bed stuff is $160

Extruder - Chose any extruder you like, I prefer direct drive
Loose Reverse Bowden 3mmID x 4mmOD, Amazon $8
BTT H2 V2s - Amazon $60
High flow Hardened nozzle - CHT 0.6 - Filastruder $40
MicroProbe - Amazon $25
Print Fan - Amazon, or V1E $5.25
Terminal block -Optional-
Wire loom - 6’ - V1E, or Amazon $2.50
Accelerometer - klipper- solder and need some CAT6 wires needed Amazon $6.50
Misc M3 screws depending on mount. This config uses 4-M3x5mm 5-M3x10mm 1-M3x20mm This is for the extruder, fan, probe, accel.
Extruder Stuff $149

Frame - Corner brackets or CNC’d Panels. Example 300x300x300
Extrusions - 8.5M plus some for waste, plan cuts carefully Amazon $66
See the CAD for exact dimensions, I suggest cutting all pieces 2-3mm short for ease of Assembly.
Corner brackets and hardware - 37 plates Amazon $80
If you cut your own side panels add that same mount of screws and t nuts, can save a lot of cost.
Linear Guides/bearings/rails MGN12H per CAD, Amazon.com and Amazon.com $120
Frame Total $266

I highly recommend adding these style M5 T-Nuts, they have to be preloaded but don’t spin. Use the others when you forget to preload one. Amazon](Amazon.com)

Electronics
SKR Pro, Any 6+ driver board Amazon.com $60
Drivers, Amazon.com $30
Filament sensor, Amazon.com $23
Pi, Amazon.com
power supply, Amazon.com
24v to 5V, for pi, Amazon.com
Short USB, pi to controller, Amazon.com $9
2x Endstops V1E $4.75 roller style not recommended
Not finished…

Hardware
33x M5x35 button head Amazon $9.50
33x M5 Nuts Amazon $7
98x M3x10 button head Amazon $7 Depending on your extruder/CAN you could need a few more.
25-75x M3x8 Amazon $7 This is for your Y&Z linear guides. I put one screw per 3 holes, some do every hole. Bigger builds need more, smaller need less. Total YZ rail length/25 for max screw count.
100x M3 T-Nuts Amazon $14 Might need more or less depending on your size and count per linear bearing rail
4x M2.5x12 (10mm will work) for endstops Amazon $7
M3 assortment good for the extra M3 you might need bed mounting and various extruder mount screws Amazon $10

Good idea to get some t-nuts that can be added without taking the frame apart, M3 Amazon

3x Springs bed frame to Z needs to fit over an M5 but not bigger than the button head sit at about 20mm Soft silicon can be used - V1E $1.50 (one per mount point), Amazon.com This pack works for the mount listed below as well

3x Silicone Bed to Frame, needs to fit over an M3 and be fairly stiff, Should be non-conductive, non-abrasive to not wear through heater pad if it touches it. Amazon.com This pack works for the springs listed above as well

Total ~$100

Drive
12x Smooth Idler V1E, Amazon $28
6x Toothed Idler V1E Amazon $14.50
5x Pulley V1E, Amazon $12
9-10mm GT2 Belt, (X linear bearing length+200)x2 + (Y Linear bearing length+200)x4 + (Z linear bearing length+100mm)x3= (300^3 build would need 4.7M, round up 5M) V1E, Amazon $12.50

Total $67

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

Printed and Cut parts
If a part ends in V1, V2, V3, etc it just means it is a new or revised part. Always use the highest number if there are multiple.

–Cut Parts–
The Three Bed cut parts (Bed A-C) are the only parts that are size dependent. Make sure to set the correct build size before cutting these parts. 300X x 300Y is the default included size.
Qty 1x Bed A, B, C
Qty 2x Corner Stepper, Corner Top, Truck Rail, Truck Top.
Qty 3x Z Back, Z Front
Qty 4x Tensioner

–Printed Parts–
The Core parts depend on your build. You need 1x Top and 1x bottom. The Cad is linked below if you want to adapt your favorite extruder.
1x Core bottom H2 VS2 / Lite, or Hemera
1x Core top H2 VS2 / Lite, or Hemera, with Canbus mounting holes or a small terminal block holes / no extra mount

1x Y Endstop Holder, Z Bearing Mount, Belt Smooth and Wire
2x X Rail Nut Holder, Front Tension Spacer, Truck
3x Z Bearing Mount, Z Belt Upper, Z Lower Belt Holder, Bed Mount
4x Rear Spacer
6x Z Spacer

–H2 V2S–
Parts and hardware -Printables, MakerWorld, Thingiverse
-Hardware Needed for the Extruder
1x M3x16-25mm fan to mount
2x M3x10mm extruder to mount
4x M3x5mm ADXL and Probe

Bonus, printable Nozzle torque tool, From this page, How To Properly Tighten A Bondtech BiMetal CHT Nozzle. Highly recommend it.

CAD Help

CAD is here - Fusion

The three Bed cut parts (Bed A-C) are the only parts that are size dependent. Make sure to set the correct build size before exporting / cutting these parts. 300X x 300Y is the default included size.

If you want to export your own DXF’s this is where you find them.

If you want to change the Core type you will find suppressed groups in the “core” you can suppress and un-suppress them to change the extruder type, or to make your own.

This is how you adjust the model. Open the modify menu, Change parameters Menu.

These three settings are how you adjust the size of the build. Z is not exact as it depends on the hotend you chose but it should be close.
Note- The CAD will fail if you go up and down in size. Make one edit and it should be fine. If you have an issue, start fresh.

This lets you adjust the hole size for the Plates to frame. I was asked to allow for M5 hardware, this is where you do that, you will need to export new DXF files for the corners and tensioner parts.

If you want to make the Belt have a tighter or looser grip on the core bottom or Z top pieces, you can change it here.

If you want to see how long a part is, click on the edge, it will turn blue. Bottom right corner show the length of that line.

If you want to see how far things are apart hit the “I” key (or the inspect menu, inspect). Click on two objects, objects can be points, lines or surfaces. Fusion 360 loves to hide the actual number so it is listed in several places. This can be tricky, make sure it does not measure some sort of weird diagonal.

If you choose to make your own extruder mount be sure to adjust these two parameters to your nozzles actual location. This will make sure the bed and Z steppers are located properly.
Note- this is not the nozzle offset used in the firmware. That has to do with the Probe location.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

Build tips

-Frame tips

Cut all extrusions 2-3mm short. This lets you have not perfect cuts and still build an extremely accurate frame.

As you are building the frame, reference the CAD for your build. The location dimensions should be as exact as possible.

All measurements should be relative to the exact same spot. In most cases this means build the backplate first and measure everything from there. If you like measuring from the outside of parts, always measure from the outside (or insides).

Measure the diagonals often. It is much easier to build a square frame than it is to later try and square a full printer build. Measure the diagonals often, accept nothing other than as perfect as you can measure. Pay attention to where you measure from, never measure from a cut surface, those are not to be trusted. Skew compensation is a last resort.

-Idlers

Lube all the idlers.

Mount the corner plates to the frame, and the truck and Z axis plate to the bearings first and snug down. Add the spacers and idlers after. Make sure they slide in, these should not be tight as you can crush the tiny bearings.

Wiring

Mains powered bed - Hot to SSR to thermal fuse, to bed. From the bed to Neutral.

Ground the bed, bed frame to main ground.

Wire clips, Cable Clips for 2020 Extrusion by Ravenex - Thingiverse, & Wire Clips for 2020 Extrusion by Rambozo - Thingiverse

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

Firmware /klipper stuff

[Jonathjon (Jonathan Jones)]

So glad you started a build thread!! This will help a ton when I get started in a few days!!

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

so I don’t lose them

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

Old first post pictures,

V5 Initial Tests

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

For my second build…so pretty.

[Jonathjon (Jonathan Jones)]

They look awesome!!! Whats your plan for dealing with the tabs???

You should have tried this…

LOL

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

I have a few ideas. The small ones are razor knife. The big ones are hacksaw blade and sander.

My plan was to set up a single plate for production…rabbit hole of aluminum drilling on a CNC. Spade bits look promising.

[Jonathjon (Jonathan Jones)]

I get that completely. But man the post process time with those tabs will be killer in production. Where a pause to add a bunch of screws is sub 5 min. Still takes a good while to mill all of that out at what these machines can handle. Even for your small set up. Hopefully the LR4 will be able to take a little more bite and decrease that time so you can mill and sell a BUNCH of plates!!!

[niget2002 (David Walling)]

Metal cutting vertical bandsaw would have those tabs cut in just a few minutes.

Plus you get a new toy if you don’t have one.

[orob]

Looks very good. I could only think of a couple ways to take that aluminum plate to production:

• MPWJ = mostly printed water jet
• MPEDM = mostly printed [wire] electrical discharge machining- cuts metal with wire (but I hear they are a bit “difficult” to work with sometimes).
• Not sure an LR3 plasma cutter would be the ticket with aluminum, but then you could use a thinner steel plate or sheet stock.

a few more things to ponder perhaps or throw out.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@Jonathjon

post process time with those tabs will be killer

Yup, it sucks. Should have used screws. Lesson learned. Drill all the holes with a drillmill or spade, screws, lighter finishing pass. That 0.85 left a rougher finish than the thin chattery one.

@niget2002

Metal cutting vertical bandsaw would have those tabs cut in just a few minutes.

The outside ones are pretty easy with snippers, it is the small inside ones. Those will all be pockets next time for sure.

@orob

Not sure an LR3 plasma cutter would be the ticket with aluminum, but then you could use a thinner steel plate or sheet stock.

I can not get a super great edge finish with the plasma on aluminum yet…if it is even possible.

[Jonathjon (Jonathan Jones)]

@vicious1

That 0.85 left a rougher finish than the thin chattery one.

That’s crazy how it can do so good one time and then total opposite another. Makes it real damn hard to iron down some good consistent settings lol.

@vicious1

I can not get a super great edge finish with the plasma on aluminum yet…if it is even possible.

Time for a LR3/4 Water Jet!!!

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

Building a new frame.
The process is very similar for a corner bracket frame. Panels are easier to build but harder to make.

Building on a very flat and solid surface make this part easier.

Frame parts and tools. We will start with the back panel.

Load up the t-nuts

Slide the extrusion on. Going to use this same process a lot.

Top and bottom

Load in the trapped Tnuts (if you are not using twist in’s). I only use twist in’s when I forget to load one in.

Add the other rails, load in more trapped T nuts. Remember top and bottoms as well.

Add last rear rail. Verify all dimensions, Diagonals are very important as well (cut ends are not accurate to measure from so inside corner to inside corner works best).

Verify Z rail location to the CAD dimensions. Do yourself a favor and get them all very accurate.

Build out the side panels, stop at this point to load in trapped T Nuts.

Verify verify dims

Load in the Nuts for attaching the sides

You can slide the sides in to get ready for the bottom.

Add the front bottom rail to the bottom panel.

Attach the bottom and check all the dimensions again, snug up the screws. Check every diagonal you can.

I stop here to add the hardware in while it is easy to reach in. If you are building a corner bracket frame feel free to build the whole cube.

[azab2c]

Liking the documented build approach

1/4" HDPE panels?

@vicious1

Cut all extrusions 2-3mm short. This lets you have not perfect cuts and still build an extremely accurate frame.

I don’t understand “Cut all extrusions 2-3mm short” ? Having been blue taping together extrusion meant to be the same size, then cut on chopsaw (after first double checking blade is perpendicular to back stop).

Curious what’s the minimum tab width and height sizes folks are configuring when milling, so the Alu parts to stay in place during the cuts, but are not a PITA to remove and cleanup?

@vicious1

(if you are not using twist in’s). I only use twist in’s when I forget to load one in.

Typo? Was expecting… “Do NOT use twist in T-Nuts”

[Michael_Melancon (Mike M)]

@azab2c

I don’t understand “Cut all extrusions 2-3mm short” ?

Whether it’s panels or corner brackets you are using to hold the frame together, those are what’s providing the strength and keeping it all square.

cutting the extrusion short, like this:

Allows you to square it up with the panel or brackets without extra length getting in the way.

The reality is you want all the pieces to be in the range of exact length down to a few mm short.

cutting a few mm short just ensures you aren’t accidentally slightly too long, and stopping yourself from being able to make it square because the extra length “kicks it out”, so to speak.

If that helps…

[Michael_Melancon (Mike M)]

@azab2c

so the Alu parts to stay in place during the cuts, but are not a PITA to remove and cleanup?

@Guide to Milling Aluminum Plates for MP3DP v5 with EstlCAM

Holding tabs or not

I decided against using holding tabs. Instead I would plan to screw the part down to the bed by pausing the job before it did the final Part cut, and insert screws into holes, making sure that the holes I picked were far enough away to not hit the bit.

Along the way, I also decided to print some screw “cushions” to stop the screw from marring the surface, like this:

I took a cue from @Jonathjon and instead of trying to manually pause the job, I manually edited the GCode before transferring it to machine, and inserted the following gcode:

(Move away and pause for screws)
G91 (set relative mode)
G0 Z10
G0 Y250
M0 (Insert Screws)
G0 Y-250
G0 Z-10
G90 (set back to absolute mode)

Please test this code before using it on your machine to make sure it works as you expect

@Jonathjon and I used padded screws instead of tabs. A little more upfront planning, but less clean up work after wards