Getting there. Need to add the “f”
I am digging through there guide…It is huge. I found the Z axis at a different rate stuff but I am not sure if I have it correct yet.
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Yep, ramps.
I’ll make the switch tomorrow. Seems straightforward.
Ha! Yeah, I was in over my head quickly with that one.
Digging a bit deeper, this software is bundled with nearly 500(!) post-processors of every flavor. I picked one (X-carve) and copied a chunk below. Not a lot there. If you know a machine that might operate in a similar way, I could send that PP to copy from.
xcarve-gcode.txt (869 Bytes)
If this works I can add Arcs as well.
I hope this asks for
feedrate, What we call rapids
Cut rate, What we call feedrate
Plunge Rate, Feedrate for Z axis
I feel like I am still missing something though
Marlin_mm-test3.zip (1.08 KB)
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If there is a reprap one in there we would be in business I’m sure.
With arcs and more correct Z moves? “test 5”
If that fails test4 corrects my command error from test 3.
Marlin_mm-test5.zip (1.19 KB)
Marlin_mm-test4.zip (1.08 KB)
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There are genuinely 500 PPs but no RepRap. The community is large enough that I’ll expand my search there tomorrow, probably here.
Doesn’t seem to be a significant change; are the arc moves only used with vector images? I’m building from a raster.
test-5-gcode.txt (919 Bytes)
That looks correct, it should/might work. There should be new plunge commands in there somewhere.
Yup, looks like it. There aren’t many, but my plunge rate is set at 4 mm/s and there are several F240.0s around.
I’ll flash the new firmware tomorrow evening and run Test 5. If things aren’t looking right I’ll switch to 1/16 steps.
Thanks again for your help!
Sweet, once you confirm I can add this to the “trusted” PP list. Thanks for going through all of this and testing. I might still do some tweaking as I don’t like that there is a hard coded speed in there but I am not sure how the speed settings work. Has that cutting parameters window changed to include rapids or is it the same as before?
It worked! Used test #5 (above) to slice in Vectric Aspire, RAMPS firmware flashed to Marlin 2.0, config file adjusted for my 5/16" Z axis screw, and:
[attachment file=51429]
Poor lighting, but the cut is perfect—no more drift.
Thanks for all your help! I’ll post the rest of the project as it nears completion.
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New snag—the x axis stepper socket isn’t responding. I switched the x & y motors (fine) and the x & y stepper drivers (fine), but I only get an idle hum from whatever is plugged into the x axis socket when I send a command. I ran it fine this morning (10 min) to complete a section, set up for a new print, and it no longer moved.
The heat sinks seem very warm, but I don’t handle the board so I can’t compare with normal.
What voltage is it set to? Have you even unplugged a stepper while it was energized?
I don’t know what voltage (bought the kit), but I could measure if I knew which pins to check.
Never unplugged them, never unplugged motors without unplugging mains and USB.
I have never had a board go bad after the fact, only a driver. You are describing a board issue 100%. Is there any sort of debris on the board that could be shorting it, or sitting on anything conductive? You can split the ramps and Arduino to check for anything that looks fishy. This is not a common occurrence, as far as I know the first we have seen here.
Nothing on the boards, and it sits on wood. I checked the sockets as best I could, and flashed back to the previous firmware just to make sure.
So, I tracked down the pin assignments in the firmware and flipped the X and E0 pins, and it works! Is it really that simple? I worry I’m overlooking something in my ignorance.
Nope should work, E1 might be a bit more safe but just don’t enable the Extruder and there should be no issue.
Probably want to get a case or some spacers though, sitting directly on the wood isn’t ideal. Lil moisture and poof.
Each driver needs to be calibrated to a specific voltage, which is really setting a specific current through the steppers. To test, check the voltage between the little screw on the top of the driver board and the 12V ground. Be careful not to short anything with the probe. Even if everything seems fine, you need to check these at least.
If you’re wiring is serial, and you have “normal” motors, then the setting that is not reliable and strong enough is about 0.7V. you can Google for a great video by pololu on adjusting drv8825 current. Just know that the limit of 0.7V is meant to be conservative and it’s plenty (for series).
In the firmware, you can set all the E0 pins to -1 and it won’t ever do anything to the x pins then.
Awesome work.
Just an update. I don’t know if you’d want to submit the PP to the trusted list based just on my case, but I completed the last few sections with it.
[attachment file=53388]
Still need to mount, level, and paint the pieces and fix the lettering. (A single-flute 1/4" bit started melting the plastic after I put 10 hours into the panel…)
Here it is from an angle:
[attachment file=53389]
In all, a success. Thanks a million for your help.
Also, we’re putting on a STEAM fair this week, so I’ll be showing off the machine (with a pen) at the school. Made a sign today:
[attachment file=53390]
Hope this use of the logo is okay. If not, I’ll pull it.
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