Could I trouble someone to either take a photo of the side rail where the stepper motor is from the top down, or tell me if I were to make a decorative change to the shape of the XZ frame up at the top corner there (see arrow) would I run the risk of interference with the stepper if the Z axis reaches all the way to the top there?[attachment file=71454]
The ZX piece does not go any higher than the bottom of the top corner bracket.
Just to be sure…here?[attachment file=71461]
…and now the cat’s outta the bag officially ; ) I got my shipping notice this morning. Looking foreword to another box full of fun from you Ryan!
I took a pic of mine, but it’s got my custom cable mgmt on it. So I can’t go up that high anyway.
If it helps, the stepper is about 5mm to the left of the frame and it’s about 5mm below the top of the ZX part. It looks like the ZX part is also about 5mm in front of the frame. The screw on the bottom of the top corner bracket looks like it’s going to miss and the ZX part will top out when the smooth rod is all used up.
Yeah, that pic is pretty useless
I’ve just seen enough mentions by Ryan about “you have a CNC machine - have fun with it” or something to that effect as far as cutting the flat parts for the MP3DP. I don’t want to disappoint. Haha. But it doesn’t matter how pretty it looks if the axis can’t go their full distance. (How do you pluralize axis as in “axe-ease”…is it still ‘axis’ or should it be ‘axes’?)
I think it’s axes. And I don’t care a bit about Z. I’ve never printed over half my total height…
But I do hope you go a little nuts on the design. There’s no reason it has to be symmetrical. So if you were thinking a ling kong theme, just make him climb the other side
Okay…killer idea you got there…I won’t steal it…but you better claim the rights. Remember that mountain climber hiker game on the Price is Right? That could be done too…but I won’t. Oh man - so many ideas flowing now! hahahahahaha
You can use the idea, but I get 10% of your prints. I already have my theme all settled:
I happen to be sitting here tuning my other printer while my kids sleep. Living the Dream.
Now I am excited to see what you have up your sleeve. I like custom!
It looks like the 3d printed bits are set for a specific width of material - is that the 3/8" material as stated in the info online here? Trying to get an idea of how much material I can cut away without the whole unit getting floppy on me.
The frame components were designed for 3/8″ material, the bed support is still good for 1/4″ (the lighter the better for the bed). All the parts can safely go above a little thicker than 1/2″ and as thin as you want for those of you with access to high tech materials. Material thickness will determine some screw lengths
You think with 3/8" MDF I can safely “air it out” this much?
Y_Frame_mmKD.pdf (50.7 KB)
Yes, if you use the Heffe plate.
Ah. Gotcha. Yes. Was definitely in the plans. Thanks! Going to pick up the MDF today.
I think I’m the only one not using the Heffe plate :). I have plans to make a nice electronics enclosure in the bottom, and the top would be that plate, but… busy. Oh irony.
I saw somewhere - I think on Thingiverse an LED square rim light mount. I assume this pulls power off the board somewhere? If I were to want to add LED lighting to my printer where might I pull power? Same place as the print head ring light on Thingiverse?
I’ve ordered the mini Rambo.
The extruder has a fan that’s constantly on. It’s powered by 12V. So if you can use 12V, it’s already there at the extruder. IIRC the ring LED was going at an automotive store, and was 12V. It sure would help, I’m frequently squinting at mine, sometimes pulling out the phone light to see better