Repeat V2?

So far so good, fully assembled and belted. Been working on the little extra parts and mounts today.

I think I am going to make some sort of basic cover for the SKR, maybe clip on to my basic mount thing. Might make it look a little less busy in there.

2 Likes

Like v2 and plan to build one, thank you for the time and effort you put into creating, sharing and supporting these builds.

Recent posts about the origin/history of the V1E logo got me wondering…

Given linear rail prices. To reduce cost, and make build more affordable for folks, especially if they want custom/large dimensions. Was EMT considered instead of linear rails for z axis, maybe other axis too? With printed parts mounting EMT rails to frame/box.

Or go further even to optimize for cost, without compromising quality, and use EMT instead of 2020 for portions of the box frame even? Personally, I liked that v1 plybox helps provide structure at reduced cost, but also helps improve prints by reducing unwanted air flow.

2020 alu frames look cool. But looking at my LR3, I really love how it sticks it’s finger up at other comparably sized $$$ CNCs. The finger is pointing to a better way of course, not sure what you assumed :wink:

1 Like

Not sure if this is what you were thinking but it made me wonder, can you use only two Z rails and still have three Z motors?

1 Like

So I do not know if it is possible on the lr3 , but there have been plenty who used the mpcnc for a 3d printer.

1 Like

Yes, this, mostly printed and mostly EMT (and/or other affordable accessible material) based 3D printer has been done by the community already. That is cool!

So “large” is kind of subjective, or debatable here. Core XY is not good for Giant builds, and for giant build giant extruders should be used. So in a giant build an MPCNC is probably easily the better choice. Large to me would be 300-400mm range and the linear guides / corexy are great for this. Giant is anything over that.

To me, personal choice here, was to make a good production printer. 8 printers is a lot to manage, I do not want to add more, I would rather print faster and maintain less. The V3 (repeat) is faster than the V1&2 but the CF tube did not handle 24/7 use. I blasted all the CF rails now, in a few months. My hope is the linear guides are less maintenance required. Using emt increases maintenance (occasional adjustments and tube turning) and the hardware increases size/footprint.

That is kinda why I don’t really ever support the printers like the CNC’s. The printers are 100% built to what I need and want, where the CNC’s are trying to do it all.

I do not like the Extrusions much either, but for the dimensions I prefer to hold for my printed parts that I sell the extrusions allow for me to very easily fine tune all aspects very quickly. If you look around at any 3D printer company, I do not think once I have ever seen accuracy listed, at best you will get an accuracy possible number. micro-step calculations. I try to adjust the V3 and V4 to under ±0.2mm off 150mm compared diagonals in any axis. If you even look at tuning guides I don’t think I have ever even seen a Zx Zy calibration procedure as most printers have no way to adjust them. Early printers had adjustable diagonal stabilizers, those seen to have disappeared. BUT…I have actually still made V4 to fit in a wood box, with the exception of the right XY stepper, that would need a vertical mount instead for the 90 I just added. Pretty easy fix, if you are not needing such exact dims.

2 Likes

Check these out. Really neat concept, but lots of plastic and lots of parts.

1 Like

Did you try replacing it with a bit of steel? Is that just too heavy?

I don’t want to stop your progress on V2. But you probably have a couple of V1s that you would like to keep running.

I have replacement CF and Aluminum tubing as well, but it is just too difficult to replace quickly, and then retest accuracy. I spent too much time trying to make it with few parts instead. I got stuck in the engineering challenge instead of the project itself. The other thing is I am now realizing I was so unsure of the belted Z I was trying to just get it done ASAP to try and run it.

3 Likes

I replaced the CF with aluminum tube. A few grams heavier, but smoother and more accurate, I think. I used to be able to see some wobble on X travel righr close to the bed, seems to be gone now.

I think Im going to build a 200mmx200mm repeat pretty much as designed. Ill grit my teeth and cut the rails, too. (I.always hate cutting stuff, in case I need the length later.)

Still kimd of.batting around the idea of hybridizing the Z axis though, using the new Z parts.

Also, I have a couple of Duet 2 boards, and it would be nice if I could manage to hack it for 5 drivers… but that’s kinda tricky. Maybe with hard stops to level the front 2 motors…

That would surely help.

The expansion board looks straight forward, a little bit of work but it would be interesting. Their new docs look good, wiki.js Dozuki must have started to get a bit too expensive.

1 Like

Problems with the expansion boards i that they’re difficult to get ahold of, and where you can find them, it’s almost easier to get one of the new Duet 3 boards that have 6 drivers, which leaves me with (still) a few spare Duet 2 boards.

My sole complaint with the Duet 2 for CNC work is that there’s no good option for a laser pin (though I have now got a dozen or so little boards that let me use a heater pin for PWM laser output.) Not relevant for printers though.

I have RRF for the SKR Pro compiled, and have been playing with that. Some of the pin names are a little funny for the configuration though, so I’m still working stuff out, like finding the right configuration for the BLTouch.

Anyway, the aluminum tube is probably more durable. It’s certainly more dimensionally accurate and smooth, which seems to have a good effect on my prints.

1 Like

6 Likes

Man those are clean

2 Likes

Interesting to see the variation of the frame assembly- some with internal 90 degree frame connectors, some with braces on the outside.

Are you experimenting to see what gives better rigidity?
Or, are you like me and sometimes build things up with whatever you happen to have on hand?

What kind of clearance volume is there in the front below and behind the horizontal extrusion?

Those flying Z motors are pretty clever. Do the steppers get warm sitting there with just hold current?

What kind of tolerances are needed when making the frame cuts?
Tired of me asking questions yet?

Whatever I have on hand. I hate the inside ones since the screws can move but they are a lot cheaper and I have a ton of them laying around.

90mm or so space under the rail and all teh way under the bed, 40 to get your fingers caught betwean them.

They don;t need to, but I have not dialed anything down yet so they are still running a bit above room temp.

Everything can be adjusted so it doesn’t really matter. The better your cuts the faster you get a square frame though.

NOpe.

2 Likes

@vicious1, how’s it going? No pressure :joy:. Are you planning to put a Repeat v2 kit together that folks can buy directly from v1e so we don’t have to burn time sourcing and shopping around for parts? Giving you a fair premium for the privilege/service/appreciation.

Wondering whether you’ll be able to get a deal on bulk buying a bunch of high flow Revo Voron, or whatever hotend most folks are interested in (do you already know, or worth using a discourse vote to understand Customers wants? Maybe Maker’s preferences are too diverse to try and bundle hotends?).

Personally would be up for paying a deposit to help your cash flow get better deals, either explicitly or via v1e gift card if you’re close enough to be comfortable sharing a near term time frame (subject to change, because stuff :poop: doesn’t just happen, but has actually been happening these past few years).

1 Like

Hmmmm the tough part is the frames and rails. I would only be able to do one size and so far most people are making vastly different sizes. Printers are hard to kit up. So if I made even just a hardware kit how many rails screws would I include?

This :point_up_2:

I use mine for production, some want speed, some want size. I do have an e3d account, and BTT has that H2 that looks promising.

In the end though I do not think I could even remotely compete with any printer companies.

1 Like

I am working on my third v4 build and the firmware is running in Marlin builder nighties though. Loving it.

1 Like

Ddefinitely guilty of the “different sizes” there, although I’m looking at doing a Repeat build as-designed now. It just took a very long time for my 200mmX200mm heated build plate to arrive from China.